First HEAVY towing experience with my Dodge 2012 3500 DRW.
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From: On the Farm, Manitoba
If you plan on deleting the truck like you say, try the same trailer again after it's deleted with the H&S mini maxx and transmission tune before deciding to change gears because it's a different truck altogether when deleted.
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From: Brown Summit NC
Its also difficult based on user posts on the boards --
I had 4.10's in my 2001.5, and mileage sucked. Towing was easier though, and I had the 47RE auto. At the time, everyone seemed somewhat condescending, relating great tales of hauling very heavy loads with 3.54's, if I remember, and 35's, auto or manual, 20k lbs, etc., getting fantastic mileage all the time. The consensus then was that the 4.10's were an unnecessary $50 option that you kept paying for at the pump every single time you drove the truck. For the times I haul, I think that running the truck in 5th at a lower speed will be fine, and keeping the better gearing for running around unloaded (my wife gets to use the truck as her daily driver -- she doesn't have a commute, so it is for whatever errands and trips she and the boys do. any decent shopping is at least 30 minutes away, so the truck warms up well and all.) should gain me some mileage for the vast majority of the trucks life. EVerything is a compromise.
If you are going to be running the truck towing your new heavy load, and mostly that purpose only, I encourage you to regear the truck. Look to see if anyone with the 4.10's wants to swap to 3.73's. I was working on a deal with a guy to do that, but he had almost 180k miles on stock brake calipers and rotors, while I had all new brakes installed all around. We were going to swap axles complete - hub to hub, front and rear, even steven trade. He wasn't interested in upgrading his brakes or swapping mine and his out, so we didn't complete the deal.
If you are going to regear, are there any other ratios available for the AAM1150 that you could use? 4.30's or anything similar? Chevy uses the same axle, and might have different options available, too! That would bring you even closer to the 4.56 you are used to.
I had 4.10's in my 2001.5, and mileage sucked. Towing was easier though, and I had the 47RE auto. At the time, everyone seemed somewhat condescending, relating great tales of hauling very heavy loads with 3.54's, if I remember, and 35's, auto or manual, 20k lbs, etc., getting fantastic mileage all the time. The consensus then was that the 4.10's were an unnecessary $50 option that you kept paying for at the pump every single time you drove the truck. For the times I haul, I think that running the truck in 5th at a lower speed will be fine, and keeping the better gearing for running around unloaded (my wife gets to use the truck as her daily driver -- she doesn't have a commute, so it is for whatever errands and trips she and the boys do. any decent shopping is at least 30 minutes away, so the truck warms up well and all.) should gain me some mileage for the vast majority of the trucks life. EVerything is a compromise.
If you are going to be running the truck towing your new heavy load, and mostly that purpose only, I encourage you to regear the truck. Look to see if anyone with the 4.10's wants to swap to 3.73's. I was working on a deal with a guy to do that, but he had almost 180k miles on stock brake calipers and rotors, while I had all new brakes installed all around. We were going to swap axles complete - hub to hub, front and rear, even steven trade. He wasn't interested in upgrading his brakes or swapping mine and his out, so we didn't complete the deal.
If you are going to regear, are there any other ratios available for the AAM1150 that you could use? 4.30's or anything similar? Chevy uses the same axle, and might have different options available, too! That would bring you even closer to the 4.56 you are used to.
I had plans of doing the EGR and DPF deletes, S&B intake, H&S mini-mag, bigger tranny pan, and a bigger vented rear diff cover but that was going to be down the road.
I knew when I first hooked up to my dads trailer and went to pull it out of the driveway. When I had to push down the gas pedal more than halfway down just to get the trailer to move the disappointment was starting to grow. I know I made a mistake on the gearing. I guess at this point I'm trying to decide on what to do first. The mods I listed above, several people seem to claim 3 to 4mpg gain... Thats hard for me to believe but maybe it's real. My 06 Mega-Cab. All I ever did with it was a Smarty but I never saw any mpg gains. Which that truck never got the mileage everybody else said they got. Right now I'd rather it pull easier then get better mpg's but that sure would be nice too! Okay, I'm done crying me a river...
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From: Texas
I've always hated that uh-oh feeling immediately following a big change or purchase. Buyers' Remorse, or whatever it is called. I also get it selling something I really like, too!
I think it sucks the price difference is only $50.00 when you buy/order the truck, but costs $$$$ extra to change out later. I would want to put in an ARB airlocker or something if I had to take it all apart to put in new gears, if they even make a remote locking unit for the AAM1150. Heck, I probably could have gotten by with a 2WD instead of a 4x4 if they have locking diffs, but I do like the 4x4 capability and clearance when boondocking with my camper!
I think it sucks the price difference is only $50.00 when you buy/order the truck, but costs $$$$ extra to change out later. I would want to put in an ARB airlocker or something if I had to take it all apart to put in new gears, if they even make a remote locking unit for the AAM1150. Heck, I probably could have gotten by with a 2WD instead of a 4x4 if they have locking diffs, but I do like the 4x4 capability and clearance when boondocking with my camper!
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Redding, CA
With stock sized tires, I would think 3.73's would have done the job fine....
Obviously I don't own a 6 speed auto or a 4th gen, but with my manual 3rd gen, I was good up to 23K gross with my 37" tires and 3.73's . When I started grossing 27-28K with my new 5er, the 4.10's were swapped as a convenience to minimize shifting between 4th and 5th in the windy hilly terrain.
I think the 4.10's would force you to tow in 6th to keep the rpms down at the speeds you like to travel.
58 Mph seems to be my max cruising speed. Too much over that and the wind is just fighting frontal area and economy goes down by 25%.
The 4100 is a beast though...
4.10 would put almost right between 5th and 6th. Would that fix the problem? Maybe you should be thinking of 4.56's?
Obviously I don't own a 6 speed auto or a 4th gen, but with my manual 3rd gen, I was good up to 23K gross with my 37" tires and 3.73's . When I started grossing 27-28K with my new 5er, the 4.10's were swapped as a convenience to minimize shifting between 4th and 5th in the windy hilly terrain.
I think the 4.10's would force you to tow in 6th to keep the rpms down at the speeds you like to travel.
58 Mph seems to be my max cruising speed. Too much over that and the wind is just fighting frontal area and economy goes down by 25%.
The 4100 is a beast though...
4.10 would put almost right between 5th and 6th. Would that fix the problem? Maybe you should be thinking of 4.56's?
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From: Yuba city Kalifornia
I just cant see the F450 with 4:56s getting better mpgs I have traveled down the BAJA for years with friends 2 ford 2 Chevy's and 2 Dodges ,One being mine .I have the heavyest loaded 5er that tips in a 17k ,and my truck has 3:54 with 6spd manual and I consistently pulled faster and got better mpgs then the fords or Chevy's the other Dodge was getting pretty close to what I was. we did not hand calc any # it was easy to tell ,we would all stop at the same time and fuel at the same places and the Dodges were using a lot less diesel fords were getting 8-9 mpg the Chevy's 8-10 the dodges were getting 10-11 at on stop I even managed to pull 12.3 once . I don't know for sure but maybe with some miles rolled on the engine it will improve and I bet with the deletes it will do great .
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From: Brown Summit NC
I just cant see the F450 with 4:56s getting better mpgs I have traveled down the BAJA for years with friends 2 ford 2 Chevy's and 2 Dodges ,One being mine .I have the heavyest loaded 5er that tips in a 17k ,and my truck has 3:54 with 6spd manual and I consistently pulled faster and got better mpgs then the fords or Chevy's the other Dodge was getting pretty close to what I was. we did not hand calc any # it was easy to tell ,we would all stop at the same time and fuel at the same places and the Dodges were using a lot less diesel fords were getting 8-9 mpg the Chevy's 8-10 the dodges were getting 10-11 at on stop I even managed to pull 12.3 once . I don't know for sure but maybe with some miles rolled on the engine it will improve and I bet with the deletes it will do great .
Be really I don't care about what the Ford gets. I started this thread to get some noise from folks that had 4th gen trucks that may have had similiar numbers to me. After doing a lot of surfing on the net. My numbers pulling seem to be the worst but none pulling are dead on. 14.1mpgs is what I'm consistently getting babying it on nothing but straight highway.
I agree and hope that more miles on the truck will help the numbers some. My dads has around 16k on it now and it seems to be getting a little better. On my 2006 mega cab I really never saw a gain in mpgs from the time it was new till I sold with 98k on it. I'm optimistic though
....
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From: Isanti, MN
Trust me, I'm not a Ford guy but the facts are the facts. I make the same WV run about 3 times a month. That Ford gets 7.9 to 8.1 hand calculated. The last trip it get 8.4. It's my dads truck so I know it well. That scorpion motor is bad period. Now whether it lasts or not is yet to be seen!
Be really I don't care about what the Ford gets. I started this thread to get some noise from folks that had 4th gen trucks that may have had similiar numbers to me. After doing a lot of surfing on the net. My numbers pulling seem to be the worst but none pulling are dead on. 14.1mpgs is what I'm consistently getting babying it on nothing but straight highway.
I agree and hope that more miles on the truck will help the numbers some. My dads has around 16k on it now and it seems to be getting a little better. On my 2006 mega cab I really never saw a gain in mpgs from the time it was new till I sold with 98k on it. I'm optimistic though....
Be really I don't care about what the Ford gets. I started this thread to get some noise from folks that had 4th gen trucks that may have had similiar numbers to me. After doing a lot of surfing on the net. My numbers pulling seem to be the worst but none pulling are dead on. 14.1mpgs is what I'm consistently getting babying it on nothing but straight highway.
I agree and hope that more miles on the truck will help the numbers some. My dads has around 16k on it now and it seems to be getting a little better. On my 2006 mega cab I really never saw a gain in mpgs from the time it was new till I sold with 98k on it. I'm optimistic though
....Since sometime in the late 60's, factory tune on any engine has been inadequate.
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Melbourne, Florida
Simoniz;
Here is a link for Ring and Pinions. No one makes a 4:30 gear for your truck so you can go 4:10 or 4:56 or 4:10 with a little smaller rear tire which will get you close to 4:30. There are lower ratio's available as well 4.63, 4.88, and 5.13.
http://www.ringpinion.com/DiffWizard.aspx
Get some miles on the 6.7 and mileage should get better. If you run in 5th gear with your 3.73's it would be equal to a 4:56 ratio in RPM's if you had a 4:56 and were running in 6th, within 3 mph.
If it were me I would be running just under 2000 rpm in 5th which is about 63 mph keeping the 3.73's. Thats a good towing speed. The G rated goodyears that your fiver will most likely come with, (??) are rated at 65mph. The H rated Goodyears are rated a little higher but you have to go to 17.5" rims on the trailer. Michelin's J Rated tire is rated at Highway Speed. They carry 4750lbs per tire and also mounts on 17.5" rims.
If the trailer is a triple axle it will most likely have 6,000 lbs axles and E rated tires. If it does come with E rated tires, get a set of Michelin Ribs for it and a Tire Pressue/Temp Monitor System for it. TST makes a good one.
The Michelin Ribs have been on the market for over 30 years and are steel belted treads and steel sidewall as well. The G and H rated Goodyears and
are made the same. The Michelin Ribs has about 20 more years of road time.
Dave
Here is a link for Ring and Pinions. No one makes a 4:30 gear for your truck so you can go 4:10 or 4:56 or 4:10 with a little smaller rear tire which will get you close to 4:30. There are lower ratio's available as well 4.63, 4.88, and 5.13.
http://www.ringpinion.com/DiffWizard.aspx
Get some miles on the 6.7 and mileage should get better. If you run in 5th gear with your 3.73's it would be equal to a 4:56 ratio in RPM's if you had a 4:56 and were running in 6th, within 3 mph.
If it were me I would be running just under 2000 rpm in 5th which is about 63 mph keeping the 3.73's. Thats a good towing speed. The G rated goodyears that your fiver will most likely come with, (??) are rated at 65mph. The H rated Goodyears are rated a little higher but you have to go to 17.5" rims on the trailer. Michelin's J Rated tire is rated at Highway Speed. They carry 4750lbs per tire and also mounts on 17.5" rims.
If the trailer is a triple axle it will most likely have 6,000 lbs axles and E rated tires. If it does come with E rated tires, get a set of Michelin Ribs for it and a Tire Pressue/Temp Monitor System for it. TST makes a good one.
The Michelin Ribs have been on the market for over 30 years and are steel belted treads and steel sidewall as well. The G and H rated Goodyears and
are made the same. The Michelin Ribs has about 20 more years of road time.
Dave
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From: Texas
Also, 40psi in the airbags will make it real soft and sway pretty good, as well as if those bags have seperate lines to fill, or if they're plumbed together and only one fill line? Put about 70-80 psi it will feel like a dif truck. Little more firm, but will handle so much better.
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From: Brown Summit NC
Also, 40psi in the airbags will make it real soft and sway pretty good, as well as if those bags have seperate lines to fill, or if they're plumbed together and only one fill line? Put about 70-80 psi it will feel like a dif truck. Little more firm, but will handle so much better.
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From: Texas
I would try it to at least know if you'll be able to fix the ride by doing that. Might have to get a dif type of airbag. I had them on my 06, didn't raise the rear of the truck up much more at all. Was a single bag, looked like one donut, some look like 2 donuts on top of eachother. I think those ones expand too much. Mine were firestones.
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From: Bluefield WV
Stupid question Are you running overdrive on the flats and down hill? I know once you get to I81/I77 all bets are off because the grades suck. and anything past bluefield on rt52 is just plain stupid. I run the same route with my 3rd gen and get 9.8 towing a double truck trailer loaded. good luck
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From: Brown Summit NC
Stupid question Are you running overdrive on the flats and down hill? I know once you get to I81/I77 all bets are off because the grades suck. and anything past bluefield on rt52 is just plain stupid. I run the same route with my 3rd gen and get 9.8 towing a double truck trailer loaded. good luck
I pulled a 30' Featherlite gooseneck to Huntsville Tenn. this weekend with 3 Polaris RZR S's. Maybe 6 or 7k for weight. Used OD about 90% of the trip. Got 9.63mpg headed up Tenn.. Came home at a little faster pace and got 8.93mpg.
4,868 miles on the truck now.