"Axel Flip"
04-12-2003, 11:01 PM
#16
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Re:"Axel Flip"
PK, no arguing intended. Just relaying info but you have a point. It all boils down to whether you feel comfortable doing this or not.
04-13-2003, 11:52 AM
#17
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Re:"Axel Flip"
Some trailers such as Jayco have adjustments you can do with out welding. My last truck was a 2500 V-10 and my new 03 has the 5.9 HO. For some reason the new truck doesn't settle down as much as the last truck. The same trailer is affected by cross winds more than the old one. Going to do the adjustment this week.
04-13-2003, 11:39 PM
#18
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Re:"Axel Flip"
If you have a Dexter axle, and a lot of trailers do, you can buy a Dexter "over/under conversion kit" which consists of an "over the axle" spring pad that bolts onto the welded "under the axle" pad. Plus u-bolts and other hardware. Dexter states that the kit transfers road shock and braking torque from the top pad to the lower pad. About $25 per axle. P/N K71-384-00 for 2 3/8 inch tubes, and P/N K71-385-00 for 3 inch tubes. Dexter states that welding an upper pad will weaken the axle tube, and offers the kit as an alternative. <br><br>ascraeus
04-14-2003, 12:26 AM
#19
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Re:"Axel Flip"
This would be the same Dexter Axle Company supplying axles to Peak Manufacturing, Glendale etc. with the welded upper and lower pads on newer 5th wheel and travel trailers "factory ready" for hi or lo trailer heights (2-3/8" 3500lb/3" 6000lb) correct. Standens of Calgary offers the same options for Travelaire, Titanium, Glendale etc. with double welded mounts for versatile applications as well, and kits with spring pads and new U bolts for axle flip (top mount) springs. PK
04-16-2003, 04:05 PM
#20
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Re:"Axel Flip"
My 1975 trailer had the springs swapped some time before I bought it. It was still not tall enough to properly line up with the ball on my hitch and lowering the hitch was not an option due to ground clearance of the equalizer hitch shank. I added 1 1/2 inch blocks under the leaves as well.
Has anyone noticed a changed in mileage in windy situations once they lifted their trailer?
Has anyone noticed a changed in mileage in windy situations once they lifted their trailer?
04-16-2003, 04:31 PM
#21
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Re:"Axel Flip"
After going from our previous '91 Dodge 250 to the current '02 2500, we needed better clearance to avoid interference between the rear of the pickup box and the underside of fiver overhang - since the trailer is nearly 15 years old, and needed intense brake rebuilding anyway, I simply ordered completely new running gear from Southwest Wheel in Texas - was cheaper than rebuilding the old setup, and of course, I mounted the new setup UNDER the springs instead of above them - did it myself in a leisurely 5 hours or so, got FAR better braking action from the new Hayes-based braking system than what the original Dexters provided - the only downside noted to date, is the need to now provide some sort of extra step up into the trailer due to increased height - otherwise, absolutely NO observable swing, sway or devious diversions in towing - AND, no more danger of truck-to-trailer contact... The whole swapout ran about $425...
04-17-2003, 10:47 PM
#22
Registered User
Re:"Axel Flip"
OK here's the scoop, Dexter e-mailed back today and says recommended method of installing axle under the springs is "welded" spring pads on axle. They do offer the bolt on kits for 2000lb and 3500lb axles as previously stated by Ascraeus, but can not be used on any larger due to interference of components. Here is the catch, they will only warranty axles if their welders weld them on. I told them this is unacceptable as our customers would not be shipping axles 5000 miles round trip to have $12.00 worth of spring pads welded on. I then asked them to supply exact failures on what weight and axle usage. We have had no failures on RV trailers, we have had failures of cracks at the weld on stock trailers due to abuse. Every case has been documented as overweight stress or outright abuse on rough roads or terrain. Overheated bearings seizing and tearing off stub ends needs no explanation, in all cases of failure the axle was abused beyond design. Dexter says they will get back to me next week, Standens in Calgary has had no problems with Dexter or their own axles on RV's by mounting on top of axle. IF somebody has had a problem with the "flip" get details and photos. "Dispell the Myths" and promote safety with truthful research not rumors, this causes undo stress on those that don't have the experience to know when the BS is flying. PK
04-18-2003, 12:18 AM
#23
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Re:"Axel Flip"
"Dispell the Myths" and promote safety with truthful research not rumors, this causes undo stress on those that don't have the experience to know when the BS is flying. PK
04-18-2003, 06:55 AM
#24
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Re:"Axel Flip"
One more tidbit and then I'll shut up ...<br><br> If you decide to weld the pads on the axel tube, make sure the welding ground is as close to the area to be welded as you can and not just hooked to the frame at the first convenient location.<br><br> I did exactly that, welding on a conveyor belt trailer. I hooked the ground to the tongue (it was closest to the welding machine) and was welding at the other end. The current fried all 20 roller bearings that let the conveyor belt roll. What a pain to replace as well as costly. :'(<br><br>PISTOL
04-18-2003, 11:00 AM
#25
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Re:"Axel Flip"
When welding the new pads on, the ground is attached to the existing pad directly below, current travel is less than 4" and never had a problem but your exactly right many have cooked bearings. PK
04-19-2003, 09:12 PM
#26
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Re:"Axel Flip"
I just finished relocating "under" springs to "over" the axle using the Dexter "over-under" bolt-up conversion kit I mentioned above. Picked up 4 inches of clearence.<br><br>P. Kennedy is right, those kits are for medium-sized 2000 and 3500 lbs. axles used on trailers under 29 feet. <br><br>For those of you who can use them, they're a good kit with very heavy parts. Yes, you do *not* have to weld. The adjustable bolts transfer road shock and torsion directly to the welded bottom pads, there's nothing extra that welding could give you. It my case, I touch-welded the bolts themselves to the original bottom pad so they would not turn. Peace of mind. It's a simple job, but it'll take a fair amount of time, mostly getting things off and getting axles and springs aligned. <br><br>ascraeus
04-25-2003, 12:25 PM
#27
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Re:"Axel Flip"
I did the "Dexter Kit" approx. 2 yrs. ago on my Coachmen 30ft. That was one of the best mods I've done. No more worrying about dragging, etc. Their kit is nice and complete.
11-28-2010, 02:42 PM
#28
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Am I screwed?
Hello all, I bought a 06' mega 2500 w/ 8" lift (rock Krawler) From what I am finding out Fifth wheel is pretty much out of the question? Should I just spare the headach's and go for tow behind off the hitch? Which by the way is a 10" drop........
Any help would be great. Please spare the smart *** comments
Thanks
Any help would be great. Please spare the smart *** comments
Thanks
11-28-2010, 06:12 PM
#29
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over /under its all ok if the springs are on top it will put a little more stress on the hangers but thats it .I have owned a few trailers/fifth wheels and 50% were over, others were under .My current
5er is a 34'holiday rambler with 7k axles under the springs from the factory
5er is a 34'holiday rambler with 7k axles under the springs from the factory
11-28-2010, 09:36 PM
#30
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I did that mod with a 30' 5th wheel toy hauler. Bought some 4x12's that were weathered and warped for cheap, and cut them into 2' lengths for super-stable blocking. 24"x24" stack of blocking under each corner.
Some folks cut off the existing seats and weld them on the top, or fab a new pad, but factory done pads are cheap it makes sense to me to buy a set and weld them on. That way you have the existing pad to line up the new pad when you clamp it down to weld.
I didn't notice any difference in MPG, or in handling.
Also, having the stock spring seats still on the axle would make it easy to put back to stock... if it didn't handle well or if a future owner had a 2wd.
One other thing, it is a good idea to pull the brake wire out of the middle of the axle before welding. You wouldn't want to cook the insulation.
Some folks cut off the existing seats and weld them on the top, or fab a new pad, but factory done pads are cheap it makes sense to me to buy a set and weld them on. That way you have the existing pad to line up the new pad when you clamp it down to weld.
I didn't notice any difference in MPG, or in handling.
Also, having the stock spring seats still on the axle would make it easy to put back to stock... if it didn't handle well or if a future owner had a 2wd.
One other thing, it is a good idea to pull the brake wire out of the middle of the axle before welding. You wouldn't want to cook the insulation.