Andersen Gooseneck Fiver Adapter??
08-05-2012, 06:30 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
08-05-2012, 06:36 PM
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Sorry, I was not aware that aluminum doesn't corrode. I bet that thing could be fun to get back off the kingpin in about two or three years of getting rained on.
With a steel coupler under the trailer- and one that doesn't have a chance of spinning around the kingpin- and a stronger frame from the rails to the ball- that doesn't look like a bad set-up. But I think I would still spend the money on the right hitch to start with.
With a steel coupler under the trailer- and one that doesn't have a chance of spinning around the kingpin- and a stronger frame from the rails to the ball- that doesn't look like a bad set-up. But I think I would still spend the money on the right hitch to start with.
I know tubing can be very strong -- I have seen enough chromemoly chasis over the years to doubt the ability to handle some abuse. What I am doubting is what thickness and material is their frame made from? Where does their 24K lb rating come from? The ball manufacturer? I didn't dig deep enough through their website to find any reference to independent testing. Look at the torture testing the MOR-Ryde elastomer pinbox went through - that sort of video at least begins to sell you on durability.
08-05-2012, 08:22 PM
#18
Registered User
I didn't even consider the galvanic corrosion that could render that coupler as permanent to the pinbox. I am really uneasy over the aluminum coupler. Watching their videos, I saw aluminum chips fall out as they slid the coupler over the hitch ball. That scares me - how many chips before there is so much slop in the connection that the trailer bounces off the ball going down the highway?
I know tubing can be very strong -- I have seen enough chromemoly chasis over the years to doubt the ability to handle some abuse. What I am doubting is what thickness and material is their frame made from? Where does their 24K lb rating come from? The ball manufacturer? I didn't dig deep enough through their website to find any reference to independent testing. Look at the torture testing the MOR-Ryde elastomer pinbox went through - that sort of video at least begins to sell you on durability.
I know tubing can be very strong -- I have seen enough chromemoly chasis over the years to doubt the ability to handle some abuse. What I am doubting is what thickness and material is their frame made from? Where does their 24K lb rating come from? The ball manufacturer? I didn't dig deep enough through their website to find any reference to independent testing. Look at the torture testing the MOR-Ryde elastomer pinbox went through - that sort of video at least begins to sell you on durability.
That tubing may be pretty strong, but there are no gussets or bracing for it. I would not be surprised if, especially in a wreck, the tubing would twist like a pretzel.
08-06-2012, 08:10 AM
#20
Administrator / Severe Concussion Aficionado
The actual Idea behind the hitch system is great. The execution leaves a lot, and I mean a lot, to be desired.....
If the coupler was billet steel, not aluminum, and the bed hitch system were beefed up, and by a lot, then Id own one.
Dont care if the coupler could rust... An hour, once a year, with a little cleaning and lubing will cure that.
Dont care that the hitch system ONLY weighs 75lbs. This is a time where Ill chance tossing out my back with it weighing 150lbs. Put some more meat on that thing.
Dollar for dollar, and I hate to sound like a cheerleader here, but, its awful, awful hard to beat the quality of B&W.
If the coupler was billet steel, not aluminum, and the bed hitch system were beefed up, and by a lot, then Id own one.
Dont care if the coupler could rust... An hour, once a year, with a little cleaning and lubing will cure that.
Dont care that the hitch system ONLY weighs 75lbs. This is a time where Ill chance tossing out my back with it weighing 150lbs. Put some more meat on that thing.
Dollar for dollar, and I hate to sound like a cheerleader here, but, its awful, awful hard to beat the quality of B&W.
08-07-2012, 10:05 AM
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Blake, I am with you -- the B&W looks better and better everyday. My new questions are related to air hitches vs. air pinboxes vs. elastomer pinboxes. That deserves a new thread, however!
08-07-2012, 11:04 AM
#23
Sausage Aficionado (In training)
I have a Mumby Adapter that bolts onto my kingpin and allows me to pull my small (19ft - 3,500 lbs) 5er with my hideaway ball. The adapter came with spots for safety chains AND a reminder that chains are req'd by law.
09-24-2012, 02:41 PM
#25
Registered User
The ticket:
Here is what you need:
The Reese Goose Box
It replaces your current fiver pin box and is rated to 16K pounds. It is indorsed (actually built by) Lippert Components for Reese and they state that it will not invalidate your frame warranty. They are quite expensive though. I wanted one for our new (to us) fifth wheel, but they haven't made on that is acceptable for the TRX Fabex model 500 pin box mounting wing yet.
So, I opted for this instead:
Convert-A-Ball Cushioned, Adjustable Adapter.
Now, the converter police will come out with their anecdotal evidence about frame failure when you convert a fiver to a gooseneck. I can tell you that our 1999 Fleetwood Mallard 25 footer has been drug many a mile over bad roads and the frame and pin box mounting welds are still sound. The Lippert frame failures were very common on the frames supplied to most manufacturers (about 80% are Lippert, the rest are Dexter/Leslie or built in-house, such as by Carriage) from 2002 to 2005. When you look at those failures, only about 10% of those campers had been converted to gooseneck adapters. The rest were all hauled on their standard (albeit extended) fifth wheel pin boxes. I have seen the welds on the newer Lippert frames. They are really ugly (including the 2004 Fleetwood Terry Quantum we just bought). many of the upper frame failures were preceded by axle mounting strap failures too. It looks like the automated wire welders used by Lippert could be suspect. Add in the stresses from the popular extended pin box, and you will have failures whether or not you convert to a gooseneck.
The Reese Goose Box
It replaces your current fiver pin box and is rated to 16K pounds. It is indorsed (actually built by) Lippert Components for Reese and they state that it will not invalidate your frame warranty. They are quite expensive though. I wanted one for our new (to us) fifth wheel, but they haven't made on that is acceptable for the TRX Fabex model 500 pin box mounting wing yet.
So, I opted for this instead:
Convert-A-Ball Cushioned, Adjustable Adapter.
Now, the converter police will come out with their anecdotal evidence about frame failure when you convert a fiver to a gooseneck. I can tell you that our 1999 Fleetwood Mallard 25 footer has been drug many a mile over bad roads and the frame and pin box mounting welds are still sound. The Lippert frame failures were very common on the frames supplied to most manufacturers (about 80% are Lippert, the rest are Dexter/Leslie or built in-house, such as by Carriage) from 2002 to 2005. When you look at those failures, only about 10% of those campers had been converted to gooseneck adapters. The rest were all hauled on their standard (albeit extended) fifth wheel pin boxes. I have seen the welds on the newer Lippert frames. They are really ugly (including the 2004 Fleetwood Terry Quantum we just bought). many of the upper frame failures were preceded by axle mounting strap failures too. It looks like the automated wire welders used by Lippert could be suspect. Add in the stresses from the popular extended pin box, and you will have failures whether or not you convert to a gooseneck.
Last edited by DryCreek; 09-24-2012 at 02:43 PM. Reason: aded color, bold font for links
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