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7x12 trlr brake wiring.

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Old Feb 28, 2004 | 06:04 AM
  #1  
04ctd's Avatar
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From: Charleston SC
7x12 trlr brake wiring.

first off, let me say how crappy it is to be cheap. yesterday the wife borrows a '1998 enclosed trailer from work to haul her bike up to driver test. it's ~40 miles, want her to do good, so ok.

it's got NO tie downs. fix that.
got no air in tires. yep.
got no grease in 3 of 4 axles, at least one of them is H2O lubricated, as evidenced by the outflow when we greased that,

got an odd little 6 pin plug.
hhmmm?

$14.99 at advance for 7x6 adapter (same price as WallyWorld)

so I'm a couple cold hours & dollars into this trailer that don't belong to me.

and I notice ALL the brake wiring is hanging around the leaf springs.


heres what I see:

from plug: red & black
from drivers axle: 2 green wires
(unable to find stripe)
from pass axle: 2 white wires, one white, one wiith black stripe.

figured white with black stripe was ground, so put that on black, the trlr won't move. locks it up.
swapped it around, still no joy.

disconnected each axle, same thing, either way i wired it.

finally, with trlr plugged in, when I put the axle wires on the wiring harness, there's a nice spark, indicating that the elec brakes are drawing power, with out the truck brakes being on.

ideas?
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Old Feb 28, 2004 | 07:29 AM
  #2  
bulabula's Avatar
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From: Eastern & Western Merryland
Since you've done it all up to now in that hanger queen, sounds like you should replace the brake selenoids too.

With the conditions you noted in the bearings, does it surprise you to think the elec brakes are rotted/shorted? You can buy the entire brake backing plate(s) cheaper than swapping out parts - easier too.

I didn't say this, but in the short term, don't connect them and drive slow? Then after she passes her test, drop the trailer off on the way home with a bill.
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Old Feb 28, 2004 | 09:22 AM
  #3  
Mechanos's Avatar
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From: Kansas City, MO
Since it is not yours, I wouldn't dump anymore money into it. If all you are hauling is one motorcycle, then you don't really need the trailer brakes with such a light load.
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Old Feb 28, 2004 | 02:40 PM
  #4  
SuperGewl's Avatar
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From: Beaverton, Oregon
I agree with Mechanos. You are driving a CTD it can handle that light load without brakes on the trailer, that is unless its one of those real bigggggggg trailers.
Why don't you just put the bike inthe bed of the truck and NOT use that POS trailer
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Old Feb 28, 2004 | 04:52 PM
  #5  
04ctd's Avatar
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From: Charleston SC
well, i was not sure I could get the bike OUT of the bed when I got there.
i've got a ramp, and a ditch at home. the wife's tiny, she can't help.
~300lb bike, 3 guys can toss it in & out, though.

the ground is really soft & soggy here, and the CTD sinks everywhere.

i drug it up there, took it pretty easy on way up. hard to run pretty good to keep the bike week traffic from crushing me on the way back down I-95

that 7.6 x 12 x 6.5 (tall) enclosed dual axle trailer said on the label plate it weighed 2220 lbs,
and could hold ~2k lbs.

i figure the CTD can carry ~2k in the bed, so the brakes were good for the empty weight and little bike, and with the dual axle, i did not think the trailer would try and pass me if I stopped quick.

it towed heavy, the overhead console showed 13mpg, is that because of the flat front wall? would a v-nose be better on MPG?

thanks for all the advice, i felt better towing it after your guys posts.
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