We just purchased a new Dodge 2005 2500 Quad Cab S/B Laramie CTD SWR. I require a new 5th hitch & have focused on the Reese signature 16/18K.

D/C advises that no drilling/welding should be done to the frame.
The Reese seems to have a kit that complies with this mandate. Has anyone installed?

We have a 1995 Innsbruck/Gulfstream 30Ft 5th trailer & I am wondering about weight, height & clearance issues? Pin weight, box rails to 5th and camper to cab interference?

Also, the new truck has a factory bed liner installed.
Will this liner have to be cut to accept the rails of the new slider hitch & is it difficult to install?

Sorry for the lengthy query, but we're ready to haul & camp.

 

Well I've got alittle bad news for you. You need a slider 5vr hitch, so you should be liiking at their kwik slide or some other brand of slider hitch. Some will say that you don't need one however ask those that have had to pay thousands to repair their 5vr and the back of the cab of their truck.
Personally I would invest in the Pullrite SuperGlide for SB pickups. I don't have to worry about forgetting to slide the hitch when I'm going to make a turn
Just my .01worth

 

Dito on what SuperGewl said. The Pullrite Superglide is a little expensive but well worth the money in quality and peace of mind. It is also a bolt on operation with no drilling or welding of frame required.

 

You may not even need a slider depending what make of trailer you are towing. I run a 15k Reese and have never slid it yet and I have put my 5'ver into places most would not dare. Dad runs a Signauture series 18k and it works very well and his box is clean when the hitch is out. He has slid his a few times because he is getting paranoid as he gets older.

The pullright that some rave about really eats up you box space and is so overpriced I can not believe anybody gets sucked into buying one. They also change the front of your 5'ver so you can not let another truck move it for you without some wrenching.

 

Jamesbay
Who ever told you that the new frames can't be drilled/welded is giving bad info. See TSB 13-001-03 issued 2-7-03. Dodge Body Builders Guide manual gives the specs for drill/weld on the new hydroformed frames. The no drill/weld rumor has been around almost as long as Ford owns Cummins thing.
Reese has a web site and you can get the real info straight from them for correct installation of your Reese........JIM

 

Thanks guys:
Yes, I know that it is possible that the 5vr may never interfere with the truck;however, we don't like the odds.

I want to take some measurments to see how close the 95 Innsbruck 30ft would come to the truck at varying degrees but the 5vr is 100 miles away! We don't go into tight places and wonder if I need a slider at all?

I obtained a copy of the TSB and talked with a Camper place, they won't install the slider without a waiver form signed by us to go ahead on the drilling/welding. Just great!

Now we'll probably do the installation ourselves as we are quite comfortable with these things & considering the pro installers ask for waivers....

There are some spacers under the springs of the tall Dodge, could these also be relocated without problems?

The Pullrite is for deep pocketed people, up here the price is out of this world. Sort of settling on a Reese or similar slider.

Thanks for the assistance.

 

I have the Reese 16K MANUAL SLIDER, and it is installed using the Reese "no drill, no weld mounting brackets".

 

I bought a 2005 Dodge 3500 Short Bed, and I installed a Reese 16k sldr. Originally installed on a 1997 F250 PSD. I had to purchase 2 hardware kits from Reese and followed the instructions to the letter, and I did drill through the bed and the truck frame to install the hitch. Took me about two days, but I my time. I actually installed the hitch, then pulled it out, had a Line-x spray in bed liner installed and then reinstalled the hitch. U-Haul wanted about $350.00 and I buy the kits. If you have a slide in liner you probably should cut out required areas before you install your hitch. I seem to have sufficient cab clearance and have not needed to slide my hitch yet.

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2005 Dodge 3500, CTD, Quad Cab, Srw, Short bed, 48re, 3:73 Lsd, Line-x, Tow Pkg, Prodigy
2002 Montana 2955RL 5er ext'd pin, 2 slds, approx. 10,000lbs

 

ditto on the reese kit. I have a draw-tite (same as reese) Took anout an hour to install. No brainer. I have a lwb now but had a swb f-250 first. Only had to slide the hitch a few times and probably only really needed to twice. But when you need to you really need to. Only advice is make sure the mounting rails are perfectly straight as it will make a big difference in teh effort required for the slide to work. There isn't a lot of tolerance for the rails to be even slightly off.

 

Listen to SuperJewl - - slider hitch - - no other way. And don't get the idea of the extended kingpin - - that can have you taking out the side of the bed rail or tearing up your fiver framing. I know it hurts a little, but do it right and you won't pay for it later. I had SB last truck, but had the slider. I would not even consider any other way with a shortbed.