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$100 AirLift Rebate

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Old 02-02-2012, 09:01 PM
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Definitely let us know how everything goes for you. I've seen people on other forums have issues with the original version, not the same issue you reported but others.

I've only been with the company a couple of months, but was brought on to monitor 4 different forums as part of a continuous improvement of quality service. After seeing how issues are dealt with, I have a very good view of AirLift. I truly believe they are committed to service and not just greasing the squeaky wheel. They could have hired me just to push customers to the site, but on a weekly basis I see them truly strive to make customers with issues happy once again.
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Old 02-02-2012, 09:35 PM
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A company policy change it seems. Honorable...
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Old 05-29-2012, 01:08 PM
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Thought I'd stop in and say that Airlift sent me a completely new unit that is suppose to be revised and perform better. Which is great, because as I suspected, the first unit ran itself to death. The control module stopped responding to the wireless unit. So customer service is great.

However...it still doesn't work correctly. It still adds and dumps air randomly on turns and braking. To make matters worse, the new system is not tied into the ignition in an effort to make wiring easier. However, the added downside to this is if the system develops a leak, the controller will try to fill till the truck is dead. Also, the system randomly now adds and dumps air while sitting in the driveway doing nothing - ALL THE TIME. I now have to pull the fuse to make is stop. This results in having to sync it again when you go to use it again by grounding out a wire and blah blah.

Overall it's a great concept with a poor execution. I tore the brand new system out and ordered a Firestone Dual (manual) controller. I'm far more reliable.
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:22 PM
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Sorry for the delayed response, but I have been in contact with our design and customer service groups regarding your issues. The issues you seem to be having are not common to this product. Since you are located only an hour away they are offering for you to visit and have the system diagnosed. Both the new and old kit should be wired into an ignition source, and if the compressor keeps clicking on you may also have a leak. The controller and manifold are linked in house before shipping, so pulling the fuse shouldn’t necessitate for you to relink either.

I will send you a PM with my main contact’s info to setup a time for you to come in if you would like. All of our products are designed and manufactured in Lansing, MI; so the ones who would be diagnosing your problems are the same people who designed and manufactured the kit originally. Again, I apologize for your troubles but if possible we would like a chance to make this right for you.
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Old 06-04-2012, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by AirLiftCompany View Post
Sorry for the delayed response, but I have been in contact with our design and customer service groups regarding your issues. The issues you seem to be having are not common to this product. Since you are located only an hour away they are offering for you to visit and have the system diagnosed. Both the new and old kit should be wired into an ignition source, and if the compressor keeps clicking on you may also have a leak. The controller and manifold are linked in house before shipping, so pulling the fuse shouldn’t necessitate for you to relink either.

I will send you a PM with my main contact’s info to setup a time for you to come in if you would like. All of our products are designed and manufactured in Lansing, MI; so the ones who would be diagnosing your problems are the same people who designed and manufactured the kit originally. Again, I apologize for your troubles but if possible we would like a chance to make this right for you.

It's to little to late.
I beg to differ that these are not typical issues. The others on my RV thread are experiencing the same issues. Starts stops at random. Sometimes it revolves around starting or braking or turning, but it'll do it in the driveway too.

As for wiring it to an ignition source, there is only one large gauge wire to run now. It's main power. Any ignition source that you would tap for that gauge wire is just asking to overload the source I'd think. It's suppose to go directly to the battery according to the install. There is no second wire for the relay. Altbough I suppose a person could undo the factory relay as it stands out of the box and run it to a switched source like the previous generation Wireless Air Lift.

However, it really isn't here nor there. The logic in the wireless controller is foolish. As soon as it see's a hint of air pressure difference (turning stopping starting) it tries to readjust. It wore the first unit out. This next generation unit does the same thing. Although I'll admit slightly different. It doesn't seem to do it off turns as much, but more on starting stopping now. I'll add that I deadheaded the lines coming from the manifold for grins and the system still tries to adjust off and on at times. These controllers are posessed I think.

As far as it being linked from the factory, mine didn't work out of the box. It gave me a failure. I synced it again and it was fine aside from the logic I mentioned. I pulled the fuse to keep it from running randomly. Playing devils advocate here, I resynced it after hooking it back up. I did not try it first. I figured it had to resync when you take power off since it didn't work out of the box. I stand corrected.

I tore this brand new unit you sent me back out and I'm installing the Firestone dual controller (manual) like I had in my last truck. It worked flawlessly. I'd try their wireless unit if I wasn't so bitter and frustrated with this one. It's just not worth the problems and quirks you get with it.

Just out of curiousity...what happens if the line blows off or a bag lets go. Will it continue to run forever or does it time out eventually? I was afraid that would drain my battery dead since I couldn't turn it off.

Also, both units loose connection from time to time and that leaves you without control period. That is until it decides to work again of course.
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Old 06-04-2012, 01:02 PM
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"local" is 1.5hrs away also...not exactly a hop and skip at $4 a gallon these day.
Although I can appreciate the offer.
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Old 06-04-2012, 03:57 PM
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The national sales manager and lead customer service rep have been brought up to speed on your recent reply. They are offering to pay for your gas to travel to our facility if you would be interested in having it diagnosed.

I was not trying to antagonize you or your problems, merely pointing out how the system was designed to operate. If you would be willing to take us up on the offer to pay for your gas and allow us to diagnose your system please reference the same info I sent you in the PM earlier.
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Old 06-04-2012, 04:34 PM
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I know the Rep is and Jim was nice to deal with and nice enough to send me a completely new unit to try. I would take you up on your offer except for three things.

1) I've played with this contraption long enough. Perhaps if they'd have been more willing to make it right from the start rather than blowing me off. At this point it seems it's more an effort to quiet the squeeky wheel and damage control after I started posting my review on it everywhere that seemed fitting. All I can say to that is you reap what you sow. Customer service is everything in todays techinological days.

2) Nothing accounts for my time I've burned installing, diagnosing, and reinstalling these things. I already have a fool proof solution - Firestone controller.

3) The system has already been removed.

Regardless of any of that, we have to admit that there's nothing to really diagnose here. The system is simple enough to install. It's not rocket science. Hell the new version only had one wire to run. Both these controllers behave exactly like what others are experiencing on the forums. Its all in the manifold's logic. The manifolds shouldn't have a reaction time that is so short. It needs to sense pressure change over time to work correctly. Dumping only to turn around and fill seconds later is just dumb. Both units did it just like others are seeing.

Bottom line...thanks but no thanks. I made up my mind on it and I'm just trying to warn other RV'ers to spare them the same pains (loss of serious money and time). It's flawed just exactly like Air Lift admitted to in email and I shared previously online. There's not much more to be done on my part considering the design, other than eat the costs and move on. Air Lift can not fix this as the product stands. From Air-Lifts stance I can think you can only review and refine your system further. You could buy my gas, or buy the product back, and use that as a counter point in the future, but frankly I'd rather take one for the team, eat it, and keep warning others away from the product till it's right. Hopefully someone will do the same for me someday with another faulty product.

Good luck.
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Old 06-04-2012, 05:01 PM
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For what it's worth to others, the manual does say to use the fuse tap to an ignition switched source. If figure that would have to be an empty source though to prevent an additional 15amps on that curcuit. I have Bully dog programmers and Boss plow goodies. Not sure I have one left. I used the orignal line from the first install (battery) so I didn't have to run a new line. That *would* prevent having to pull the fuse if you have room to tap a wire. I prefer the original setup (battery direct) since my fuse box has a sealed lid and makes it hard to tap using a fuse tap.
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