Any recommendations on permanently killing or long term removal of unwanted brush growth. I have a few acres of property and I hate going in there with my Stihl weedwacker. It does a great job but its too labor intensive. There are too many hidden rocks and uneven surfaces to go run it over with a brushcutter. So for now, I'm in there doing it the hard way. I'm looking for a spray of some sort that will wipe out all this growth. Is there something out there that does this? I'm looking for something more potent than what the local hardware store sells.

thanks!!

 

I'm sure anything stronger than what the hardware store requires a license to purchase and spray. Get a hold of the local weed and pest guy and get a quote. It's better he handles it than you. My dad use to have a weed and pest buisness and the guy that owned it before hand never used the proper safety equipment and had the shakes like you wouldn't believe.

 

Wait til the weather cools and you get a little rain. The weeds won't be drinking a lot right now and you'd be wasteing it.

 

Now that it is late in the season, the weeds won't be as affected as they would when first coming up. You can still spray, but it is better to make a last string-trim effort, and next year, as the new growth is starting, have at it.
Round-up and others are all a salt solution of Glyphosphate: "Glyphosate, isopropylamine salt" It works but not like the old ingredient 2,4,d.
Yes up to a a coupleof years ago 2,4,d was the active ingrediant. If it sounds familiar, Agent Orange was 2,4,d and 2,4,5 T.
Anyway, You can still buy 24d weed killer at the feed store. Big R in Oregon has it, by the 5 and 55 gallon container.
Use as directed.

 

It doesn't matter what you use to kill it, it will still come back unless you find a way to mow it at least once a year.

 

2-4-D is the way to go, and so is Round-Up.

Find a farmer near you if you can. They usually have 2-4-D or Round-Up in big containers and you have to mix it.

Also, Round-Up can kill trees, just don't overdose the tree. Round-Up kills on contact but will beark apart when it hits the soil.

 

Your local AG supply should be able to get you, if they don't have it, some "Sahara" It is a ground sterilant it will work up to a year. However it can translocate, thru run off water. Hpoe this helps, Tony

 

i would use remdey or tordon but waite until spring i get along with them great or if you really want to kill something get some arsonal it kills it all and the ground dont worry about round up it works for small stuff and washes of to easly also get some good soap to mix your brew with i also add a alittle diesel

 

Roundup will kill everything including the grass and the first thing to grow back will be the weeds. And tordon is a restricted chemical, it would work great but you need a license.

The best time to spay is in the fall before a killing frost. The plants are absorbing as much nutrition as they can and storing it in its roots, that is when you get the best kill. In the spring plants are growing and roots are expanding if you spray it will burn down but some of the roots will survive to start growing. it may work if the ground gets shaded fast enough.

t-boe has the right idea hire someone who is in the business, and will stand behind his work. If you are going to spray a few acres you are going to need something more then a hand sprayer. But if you are up to the challenge contact your local county agent, he or she should be able to tell you where you can buy the chemicals and what is the best chemical to use in your area.

 

diesel and a match works good.

get the weeds out and the grasses in and you will be fine.

 

Try adding a surfactant (sticker) and a little ammonium sulfate to your Roundup mixture. I know it's a fertilizer but it improves the kill rate of the spray. Spraying on the green portion is also needed. The chemicals aren't absorbed as well through the brown bark. In fact in the orchard we sprayed right against the tree trunks for weed control.

Dan

 

Generic Round-up is the way to go. I bought 2 1/2 gallons for $37 at the local tractor supply. Every since Round-up lost their patent you can buy it really cheap and spray it in a really heavy concentration. Generic "Roundup" is exactly the same thing as the commercial version except MUCH cheaper. The active ingredient and the concentration are the keys to how well it'll work. Glysophate (the active ingredient) basically starves the plant to death and is very effective, although not especially fast acting (it'll take a couple of weeks to kill, but it will do so with a vengance). Just make sure that you don't let any spray drift on something that you don't want to die because it will kill it.

Britt

 

Something else that I forgot. You need to spray a pre-emergent out in the end of Jan up to the middle of Feb. This will keep weeds from germinating and cut down on weeds in the summertime.

Here is a very good example of what pre-emergent will do:







This was 3 1/2 acres of grass that was nothing but weeds when I moved in. I sprayed pre-emergent early in the spring and just fertilized it the rest of the year. It took me about 2 years of this to get nothing but Bermuda like you see here but I didn't seed or anything. This is strictly the work of pre-emergent and fertilizer and it turned out looking like a golf course. Grass is kind of a passion of mine. Not the illegal kind (at least not since I was in collage ) but the kind that grows in your yard.

Here is my new house and yard....





I've got a pretty good handle on grass and weeds. P.M. me if you need in depth info. I'll be happy to help.

Britt

 

Dang Britt!! Nice place!! Love that part of the country.

 

Really???

Because I could say the same thing about your part of the country also. I have been through S.D. many times and I love it. Spent many nights in Chamberlain.

Britt