They 949,959 are on the larger chasis as all 10/11 meter radios,the only differance between 949/959 is freq counter strait 40 ch ubs/lsb and the 929,919,979 are on the smaller chassis. I have the 949dx and it is mounted on the pass side of the center counsel on the floor. If you do a search I've post pics on one of the cb threads

 

Here's what I did. Protects it and I also left enough room to mount a power inverter at some point.


Also ran a remote speaker up front for better audio

 

guys with auto's have it easy!

heres about the only way for a hand shaker to mount a big chasis!



bells & wistles?

 

I have mine mounted like Gus's. Any good idea's on antenna locations? I want to beable to park in the garage without it hitting. My stock antenna just barely hits now.

 

Ok. I've decided to get a Galaxy DX 959, or 979.(still working on that).
Now to antenna systems. Has anyone had any luck with dual antenna's on the bumper, or the fenders? I mean tuning,etc. Thanks.

 

If your goimg to do rear bumper just remeber that you will talk better off the rear then the front. The best place is on the roof about center then you be omni dirrectional.
Fender mount same thing you'll do good off the front and the side it's mounted on less on the other side.

 

Unfortunatly I can't run anything on my roof, or rear bumpr. I have a big slide in camper. Thats why I'm looking into dual antennas mounted either on the front bumper, or the fenders.

 

bigwheels94.

Do you leave your camper on your truck all the time?

The reason I am asking this question is because my Father used to have a big 11-1/2' Lance camper, he took it on/off when he wanted to use it. He put a roof mount antenna like I have on his truck, Wilson 1000, and used it when he had his camper off the truck, best way to have omni-directional groundplaning. The Wilson comes with a cap you can screw on when the antenna is off. Then, he had a short top-loaded fiberglass whip mounted on his camper on the side up at the top edge DS of the roof using an 'L' bracket, he used when the camper was on, still gave him an omni-directional antenna. He mounted a bulkhead coax feed connector on the truck just inside his bed corner, had a screw cap on it when not in use. When he loaded the camper he just screwed his antenna coax from the camper antenna to the bulkhead connector. He had a 2-position in, 1-position out coax switch in the cab mounted in an out of the way place that he used to switch to whichever antenna he was using. The switch had a single coax line out to the radio itself. Best of both worlds antenna wise, just switched to whichever antenna he was using whenever.

For a dual antenna to perform at it's peak, they have to be a certain distance apart, I think it's something like 108", would have to look that up to be exact. Dual antennas actually transmit over the longest ground-planeing direction, so if you had them mounted on your bumper or on your fenders, the longest direction would be toward you rear, your camper would interfere with your strongest signal direction. Ultimately, you would have transmitting in other directions, but they would be limited or less than a single antenna on one side or the other fender mounted up front.

You might consider my Fathers installation, it would give you all around better tramsmitting and receiving, it worked very well for him. After he installed his camper antenna, I walked around his truck at about 100' distance, using a field strength meter to see what his overall transmitting field was, it was consistent in all directions, so he was getting a good ground planing effect.

Hope all that helps you in your antenna thinking. You would have about the same $$$'s in buying a roof mount antenna and a single top load antenna as you would in a pair of duals. It woud involve a little more forethought and work installing them, but overall I think you would probably be a happier camper.

CD

 

I'll think that over. I was kinda wanting to keep the work involved to a minimum. I don't have a shop to do it indoors right now. You're right the distance they have to be apart ave. about 108"-116" & depands on the vehicle, & lots of other things. But I've heard of people having good results with shorter distances. Just wondering if any of them might have been on a 3rd. gen. dodge.
Your dad's set up sounds like the best way thoe. Was he able to get both antennas SWR below 1.5:1?

 

I have a fender mount on both my '01 and '03. Its an "Z" shaped bracket that bolts on under where hood comes down just next to the battery. Its far enough forward that it clears my camper when on. Antenna is just a 4 foot steel whip. Works fine for me, I can talk to the people I'm traveling with either in front or behind me.

The Cobra 29(big chassis) is screwed to the dash just in front of my right knee. Easy to reach and doesn't bother me there.

 

Both antennas he installed were tunable, a perfect match with both.

My Father had a CB shop from the mid 60's-latev 80's. I did all of his installs - CB's mostly, although lots of stereos, kind of a you name it after that. We tuned up CB radios and repaired them also.

Back then, truckers were into duals big-time. They were very close to the right distance apart because of the nice and wide spaced mirrors. Of course, they also had to have duals on their pickups, and even then, we got good matches. I adjusted them one at a time. You can pull the cap off the top loaded antennas and pull out/trim the wire if you need to shorten it to get a better match. You can add a spring if you need more length to get a match. Tricks of the tuning trade. Also, coax can be in longer lengths than the 18' that is recommended, just have to use it in what is called 'multiples' in added length.

Another 'trick' to getting out 'motor noise' is to use the heavy R-8 coax for you power wire from the battery. Center conductor for your +12v and outer conductor for your ground. If you strip back 8-10 inches of the outer insulation, then push the woven outer conductor back, you can 'pull' the center conductor through the widened weave. Then pull the weave together until it forms into something that resembles a single wire, put some shrink tube around the wire that you have made and install a connector for your battery connection. Up where you break out the center conductor, put a small sleeve of shrink tube around it and the broke out the outer conductor. This will give you a nice professional looking install.

I always got power from the battery and used coax for my power, it all but eliminated the noise problems AND I never had any problems with wires breaking after they got old and the insulation became brittle.

Our trucks have some problems with our outputs interfering with our electronics. The closer to the engine compartment you mount your antenna, the higher the risk of that kind of interference. By mounting on the roof, the output is directed up/out and not down toward our engine compartment.

Another thing that helps is making sure your grounds are well bonded. You can get what's called a bonding brush- it's wire and about 3/4" diameter, it removes paint, etc where you put your ground wires. After getting a good, tight bonded ground, you can paint over the exposed metal with clear fingernail polish so it does not rust in that area.

If your area has a lot of lightning storms, trucks with antennas are good lightning rods. I have added grounding straps from an axle bolt to the ground to many vehicles over the years. If your trucks antenna does get hit, it will go to ground via the strap. I'm not sure where you can purchase them, probably a truck stop or maybe a CB shop on the internet that services truckers would have them. They also take out road static when you are in motion. If you get shocked a lot getting out of your truck, these straps will end that problem too.

CD

 

CDin NM. I'll have to think about it. I'm not real keen on drilling a hole in my cab. I also hadn't thought of RF interference with the eng. electronics. I haven't had any problems with the QSB engines in the boats I work on, but it would be my luck to have the eng die, or worse go to WOT when I keyed up. I'm starting to think, maybe I don't need a CB after all. I'd like to have one, but it's sounding like too much trouble for it's worth.

 

I just installed my Ranger 6900. Headed to Idaho tomorrow night. Did not have time to run power wires and the antenna has not been tuned.. Will try to find a CB shop on the way and stop in for a quick tune up.

 

BigWheels94.

You shouldn't have RF issues with the optut of the 959 or 979, even if you buy a radio that has been modified or tuned to it's max performance. It's when you get into the 10 meter units that are putting out much more power or if you ran a liner amp.

I just put a 959 in a friends Dodge truck for her. Although I did use a piece of coax for the power from the battery, she has no RF issues when keying up. She is using a single fender mounted top load antenna. Her strongest directional signal is to the left side rear.

I plan on keeping my truck, punching a hole in the cab for a good antenna was not an issue. If I sold my truck I'd either leave the antenna in place or put a plug in it.



Chris.

Have a safe trip, the weather is going to be an issue, storms coming from that way are pretty nasty. Also have a GREAT time with the family, Merry HO HO and all that stuff.

Where did you mount your radio? You'll have to do a pic for us. Also, someone was asking me about the gauge install using the plate and doing it the way you did, got a pic of that somewhere you could send my way? I'd appreciate it.

CD

 

Carol-

i will travel safe. lookin for tire chains now just in case. when I get to Idaho I will post up some pics of the cb install and the gauges for you.