I've got a 94 w/rebuilt pump, injectors,bhaf,4" exhaust and soon to have #10 plate. Where should my timing be? And how do you adjust timing on a diesel, thanks.

 

Bigair

From what I've been told your timing should be between 16+17 degrees. I just did mine Yesterday and put mine at 17degrees and it runs great. Now for the bad stuff, you need a timing kit that has a dial indicator, indicator holder. socket for removing the DVs and a small puller for pulling the gear off the pump. The timing will take you about 3 hr the first time, quite a job! You will also need a barring tool(socket) for turning the engine over. The barring tool is the easiest way to turn the motor over.

Hope this helps.

CRIS

 

Since you are from Idaho, I would caution you to be sure you do not plan to pull a heavy load up White Bird pass at anything above 14.5 degrees, or you will lift the head.

When you time one of the second gen 12 valve engines, where you set it is where it will always run. So take into account the load you are planning before you do the deed.

There is a fairly comprehensive procedure, complete with pictures, over on Dave Fritz's www.dodgeram.org site. Just follow the technical links for the diesel when you get there.

 

thanks everyone ,very helpful

 

Now I know about the advanced timing increasing cylinder pressures, but I've never heard of not going past 14.5 if you're going to tow?

 

Interesting, I fear that might be an old wives tale, I towed over whitebird ussually once a week for the last four years and consistantly over 22k GCVW on a 180HP pump and timed at 16 degrees and never lifted my head. Even pulled lovelace pass in Colorado (since you cant take haz mat into the tunnel) many times too When i sold her she was Totalling 337,000 miles and still running the stock head gasket and a 60mm HX35/40 hybrid

 

I am hopping to see an expanaition for this as well, because I planeed on going to 16 and thought that I read that a small pumped engine was good to atleast 17 to tow with.

 

I have been running 19* and sledpulling with my truck and also pulling a 17k pound dozer around the hills of Ohio and KY with not one bit of problems. 14.5 is BS thats close to stock and that aint no fun. 16-17* is best for a street trucks which does not want to sled pull or drag race.
DM01

 

Great info !

DM01 ?
Bit of the subject, but......
Pulling that kind of weight how do you guys stop. The trailer must have some really good brakes. I have only pulled around 10K with my 3500 and sweat that abit. Thats with an 18' trailer with two 7K axles and dual elec. brakes. Of course my trailer cannot lock up the tires when its loaded with that kind of weight.

 

praying helps but good trailer breaks adjusted right along with well maintained truck breaks will stop pretty good. Its not like driveing empty but you learn to run with a big cushion between you and the car infront of you.
My trailer is a 35' pro trak dual tandem trailer.
DM01

 

Like he said having properly adjusted trailer brakes is the key, mine at that weight will lock the tires up if I wanted them to. No problems stopping, biggest key is properly adjusted and operated equiptment

 

Cris:

Glad to hear the timing project came out. Took awhile to find true TDC? Now on with the rest of the BOMBs.

Paul

 

Paul

Finding TDC was the easy part. TDC is just a matter of getting it close and turning it slowly and pushing the timing pin into the cam gear, a no brainer. The hard part for me and I'm sure others is that this was the first diesel I ever timed and I was a little worried that something bad would happen eventhough I knew I could do it. You first have to see where your timing is set to begin with then you have figure out how much more you need to move it to get the timing you want and then start over. More thinking then work and thats the hard part for me, but I got her done.

CRIS

 

If you want to stop quicker and have the best brakes you need to get a trailer with vacumn over hydrolic. Kinda work like air brakes. I can stop as quick or quicker loaded (25,000 gvw) as with no trailer. The trailer is a alunium flatbed 28' gooseneck with two 12,000 tandem axles with brakes on all 8 wheels. Ive had as much total weight as 28,000 and pulled as far as 900+miles over some big hillls ....jellico mt on I75 is one of them. Now Im wanting to get a exhaust brake just in case I ever have a problem with the trailer brakes as I haul honeybees and the last thing I need is a accident with them involved! Rick

 

Bigair-

I'm going to take this topic back to where you started it. Timing kit, Barring socket, GSK, Valve springs, DVs and Plate. Under a $1000.00 easy I know you are going to say thats more then you asked about but it will come. I just included all of it to let you know about what it cost me. There are still a bunch of hand tools that you will need but most of us already have them. After all of my reading here I found out it was easier to go get it now because you will get it sooner or later, spend a weekend and do it all at once.

I wanted to get back to your question and try to help.

All this is just my .02 CRIS



PM me if you have any questions about what I have done.