2500Ram

Correct, it will down shift for a split second at WOT but you have to really lug the motor and then it's back into the original gear. To make it down shift I was at ~25mph in 4th, hammered the peddle, it shifted to 3rd for a second and then back to 4th.

2500Ram

DodgenIt, I hope I haven't totally hijacked your post, if so I'm sorry. But...

I was able to tow my trailer home today and all I can say is WOW, what a difference in temps. So it's a cold day here ~45* I drove the truck down to get the trailer ~30 miles. Didn't use the lockup switch at all. Trans temp on mostly open road was 170-175* unloaded.

Hooked up the trailer and the return trip, same roads, never reached 160*. I would start from a stop, hit 2nd gear and hit the lockup switch and the temps never climbed.

Normally on this same trip in this cold weather I would have at least hit 200*. The last hill to my house cooks the trans and this time it just purred in 2nd locked and no heat, I've seen 230*+.

LOVE the mod and my trans is loving it. Best $20 and 1.5 hours I've ever spent on the truck (that did include 2 trips to the parts store). So maybe a 30 minute mod if you have everything you need.

RowJ

Yup! Did a second mystery switch on a friends CTD and only took 15 min.... other than mounting switch. Simplist mod on my truck!

RJ

Charlie8301

Different switch idea......also if you use a 33ohm resistor in your circuit you dont have to use replace the relay with a jumper.



-Randy

DodgenIt

Ram2500.. Yes you did thanks alot. HAHAHA totally just messin, no I appreciate you givin so much info on how yours is treatin ya. Ill take as much info/input as I can get when it comes to my truck. So thank you very much for jumpin in

RowJ.. Ive never forgot, yet, as for my settings or RAD but I agree, 1/4 can be hetic. I could only imagine at 12.7 @ 105.

Im gonna go with just the toggle for now to keep it simple. Im just gonna mount it the same as my RAD switch and opposite of my train horn switch so when it comes time to flick it, it will only go the right direction for on, then only the right direction for off, the same time I hit RAD off.

I dont get the relay part though..
Do I need to have the relay jumper? I ask since Ram2500, you took your relay out and it still worked fine.
I took a quick glance in the box where the relay goes.. Isnt there one of those black boxes in the spot the relay goes? Do you pull it out and replace it with the relay?

It says in the TST instructions that with the relay in, it wont shift back into 3rd or 2nd unless the switch is turned off.. Is it crutial to turn it off right as I let off after a 1/4 run? Or just make sure to turn off before I slow down to down shifting speed?

By the way, nice button Charlie. Thats custom style, I like that alot.

Thanks agian guys for all the shared wisdom.
Ian

RowJ

Not important right away. And shifting speed is not the reason either.
You want to unlock converter before you got down to converter stall speed. Very oversimplified, that's the rpm at which you truck starts moving from a dead stop.
This varies, depending on your type converter, but unlocked at 1800 rpm or above should be safe level for any converter.

RJ

DodgenIt

Right right, I more ment, rpm, not speed. My bad. 1800 is just the answer I was lookin for RowJ.

DodgenIt

I couldnt find a relay at the auto store. I have the wire and plug in tabs I could just make one real quick though.
Think that will be good enough?

EDIT.. Scratch that. You made your relay too didnt you Ram 2500.
18 gauge splicer for the orange/black wire??

CODODGE2500MAN

If the switch is off (not grounded) will the truck run as stock? or will it not lock up at all?

I don't wanna do this and then have the wife drive the truck and mess things up b/c she doesn't do anything but turn the big donut in front of her and push the peddles. (Like a dang video game)

RowJ

Switch off...same as no switch.... same as stock.

RJ

MiB

It had been great if it auto switch of the lockup just before you stop the truck.

DodgenIt

My switch isnt workin!!

I flip it in 2nd or 3rd and everything just stays the same. no matter what speed or RPM's, its like its not even there. I even slowed down to nearly stopped to see if anything wierd happened and the truck stopped just fine.

Im gonna check over the wires and relay yet again tomorrow. I tripple checked everything as I set it up. I dont get it!

On another note.. RowJ, do you switch off your RAD during a 1/4 run?
Im wondering if the reason I dont hit OD till I cross the finish is cause the RAD is tricking the ECM with my MPH.

RowJ

No... I leave RAD turned on all the time...when I'm at the track.
Is switch working with RAD off? Can tell easily by watching rpm's when you back off throttle on hwy .... at say, 70 mph in OD.
They should stay 'up' and you should feel some engine braking!

RJ

2500Ram

Sorry for the delay, I was busy letting the deer and elk throughly frustrate me for the last few days and then unpacking.

There is no relay in my setup at all. I simply tapped the orange w black tracer wire much like you would tap the VP. Removed the relay from the fuse box behind the drivers battery and jumpered the relay location in the fuse box and a good ground to the switch in the cab. Tapped wire from the middle plug at the PCM behind the air filter.

At first mine didn't work as well and I had to buy a new switch. You need a simple on/off switch, only 2 leads at the back side, not 3. That could be your problem.

I read your sig and full DTT trans should have the VB able to lock in 2nd, 3rd and 4th.

On edit you have a 48re, not a 47re. The instructions say it only works up to 02, 03 they put in the 48re. I don't know if the 3rd gens have a lockup switch option or not.

Let me tell you once you get it working you will love it. On my trip back to hunting camp my temps never hit 170* hot line, locked in 2nd up 12% grade doing 20 mph. Before the switch I had to pull over and let it cool 250*+ on the same road.

I've been playing with it a lot and if I really bog the motor it will shift down a gear for a few seconds and then back to lock but I have to really be lugging the motor. My guess is there isn't the line pressure at low rpm to keep the converter locked. Down shifts for a second or two, builds pressure and back to locked.

Good luck and I'll keep checking this post if I can help more.

DodgenIt

Only time Ive tested the lock up switch is with RAD off. And nothing has happened.
Do I need to be going a spesific speed for the lock up switch to work?
All my testing has been around town in 2nd and 3rd gear between 30 and 45 mph.
It's like the switch isnt even there. There is no differance in shifting or lock up.