I got my Isspro pyro and boost gauge from Geno's today and will be installing this weekend. Any advice before beginning? My plans are to mount the electrical box inside the cab. Should I run copper line instead of the plastic for the boost gauge? Looks like the time is near to squeeze some HP out of it now

 

The plastic works fine, just route it away from anything that gets too awfully hot and don't let it kink. I just finally tapped my manifiold this afternoon (had probe in the downpipe). I removed the turbo, just to be safe, but you could just slide it back on the studs and put duct tape over the turbo inlet while you drill. Make sure you're not drilling into the divider in the manifold and you'll be fine.
greg

 

I was a little worried about the tubing myself, I took the advice of older and wiser men here.

Go to an auto parts place and get about 5 feet of 3/16" ID fuel hose and slide the tube through it. This way you are totally protected from heat, oils and rubbing in the engine compartment. I used 1/8" ID hose from NAPA and it was tight, I had to lube it up with soapy water to make it slide through.

 

According to the directions, I can drill the exhaust manifold before the turbo and just clean out the shavings with a magnet and the turbo impellar won't be damaged. Is that correct?

 

Thats what I did. You can also grease the drill bit, which will help it hold the shavings. Try not to do it all at once, start small and work up to the size you need. When you start it afterwards, make sure the turbo is spinning. Small pieces will go through it OK.
For the boost gauge, I pulled a small plug from the intake, beside the IP, and used a 90* compression fitting, and ran the plastic line right back along the intake. I tie wrapped it to some wires and it's fine.

 

Not trying to hijack this thread, but I have a question that goes along with this. Is it best to have the EGT mounted in the exhaust manifold before the turbo? Just curious, since I'm probably ordering one this week, to be ready for installing a new fuel plate.

Jim

 

Yes, you get quicker readings before the turbo.

 

I got impatient kept kinking the poly tube so I used the copper, works great! However if you've had a gasser with headers you prob won't mind but the copper tube emulates the same sound as "collector noise" don't bother me heck I don't even notice it anymore.

 

My experience with copper tubing is that it eventually breaks from flexing back and forth with engine movement.
Better method is to push the plastic boost line though some larger tubing.
Not only will it keep it from kinking but will provide a protective sheath against cuts and abrasion.

 

Something to consider is let the engine idle while you drill and tap the manifold.That way the exaust would limit the shavings in the manifold.
Just a thought.

 

I've got a 1/8" pipe to 3/16" flare 90 degree fitting in the hole to allow for a straight shot with 3/16" brake line to the firewall then it goes to the 1/6" copper from there. I did it with the brake line cause it was cleaner in appearance and easier and less fragile to manipulate with all the inj. lines and the manifold still in place. Then I ran a piece of vinyl tubing over the copper for abbrasion protection.

 

As far as drilling the manifold I used parts of ideas from a few different people on here and it worked well enough. Magnet to catch most of the shavings while drilling and tapping. Some flexable refrigerator type magnet material (the pizza places around here give them too you with **** near every order) cut to fit in the hole and get all the stuff you can.

When you go to start it have someone else around. Take the intake boot from the filter to the turbo off so you can see the impeller. Start the engine, having the helper make sure the impeller turns, if it does not shut it right down.

All you are really worried about is metal chips keeping the turbo from spinning. If it spins when you start it any tiny bits you missed will be blown harmlessly out the exhaust (if you dont have a cat). I am not sure this is such a hot idea if you have a cat, but the magnet gets pretty much everything anyway.

For me the only really interesting part was trying to drill the hole plumb. My drill has a level on the back but you have to be right over it to read it correctly. Standing with my **** against the hood, a foot on the passanger wheel well and my knee on the intake going into the top of the engine trying to drill as carefully as I could. I swear when trying to figure out where to stand I was 2 minutes from grabbing the bench top drill press and ploping it on the manafold.

-Matt