projector headlites
projector headlites
got these 1 piece projector lites for the truck, they look and fit great but they change it from a 2 bulb setup to a 4 bulb by splitting the factory plug, this does not work it creates feedback in the highbeam circuit, any ideas?
here are the lites
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=
here are the lites
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=
If you don't have daytime running lights you can help yourself to much better light by doing relays. Take the stock plug and use two relays. You wire the coil part of the relay so that it is in the same place as the filament was. Then you take a battery plus and battery ground, battery plus goes to the switched side, from there (when the relay is active) to the lamp wire it should light and then the ground of the bulb should be connected to a battery ground.
HTH
AlpineRAM
HTH
AlpineRAM
i had those lights and imo they r junk, you have to splice 3 wires into the factory harness where the stock headlights recieve power the 3 wires power the leds, halo, and if im not mistaken the high beams. idk if it was just mine or not but the bulb aim is off so you have to have the entire head light aimed up in the air making it look like the front end of ur trucks retarded in order to see at night.
If you don't have daytime running lights you can help yourself to much better light by doing relays. Take the stock plug and use two relays. You wire the coil part of the relay so that it is in the same place as the filament was. Then you take a battery plus and battery ground, battery plus goes to the switched side, from there (when the relay is active) to the lamp wire it should light and then the ground of the bulb should be connected to a battery ground.
HTH
AlpineRAM
HTH
AlpineRAM
This is from puredieselpower.com, it is what I had to do with my projectors when I installed them:
*These lights work great on Sport AND Non-Sport package equipped trucks.
However, a slight modification is needed on the Non Sport package equipped trucks.
These headlight kits convert the single 1 bulb 9004 setup to a H1/9005 setup.
To make this work properly, you need to swap the high beam and ground pins in the headlight harness plug, OR, you can cut the wire behind the plug and swap the connections there.
This will fix the high beam issue some of you have experienced if you have purchased these light elsewhere.
*These lights work great on Sport AND Non-Sport package equipped trucks.
However, a slight modification is needed on the Non Sport package equipped trucks.
These headlight kits convert the single 1 bulb 9004 setup to a H1/9005 setup.
To make this work properly, you need to swap the high beam and ground pins in the headlight harness plug, OR, you can cut the wire behind the plug and swap the connections there.
This will fix the high beam issue some of you have experienced if you have purchased these light elsewhere.
I don't have a schematic at the moment, but it's really easy.
Your connector has 3 wires. Hi, Low and Ground (or common)
Now you take a standard relay and put the coil side between high and Ground (on the connector, and another relay between Low and Ground (on the connector)
These relays will switch when you turn on low or high beam respectively.
Now you have 2 prongs left on each relay (switched side) - connect one to a good cable coming from battery plus (with a fuse inline close to the battery) and the other side to the bulb. You will need a good ground for the Ground on the light connector.
HTH
AlpineRAM
Your connector has 3 wires. Hi, Low and Ground (or common)
Now you take a standard relay and put the coil side between high and Ground (on the connector, and another relay between Low and Ground (on the connector)
These relays will switch when you turn on low or high beam respectively.
Now you have 2 prongs left on each relay (switched side) - connect one to a good cable coming from battery plus (with a fuse inline close to the battery) and the other side to the bulb. You will need a good ground for the Ground on the light connector.
HTH
AlpineRAM
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I think you're better off with this style and they look better imo
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
I had those ones before I got my halo projectors and I hated em.
They looked really good and lined up with the truck like stock ones do, But they were quite dim and shown up in the air. JMO
They looked really good and lined up with the truck like stock ones do, But they were quite dim and shown up in the air. JMO
I didn't bother to draw schematics but-

shows you the relay, and
shows you the 9004 pinout.
Now you either cut the old factory connector off or you get a spare connector and it's counterpart to attach the cables. (I suggest doing this so you can easily unplug your contraption and you are back to stock)
Either way, you connect the cable "low" that went to your bulb to pin 85 on the relay, and the cable " ground " that went to the bulb to pin 86.
For the next relay you do the same with the "high" and "ground" wires.
Now you make a cable with an inline fuse directly from battery + to pin 30 on the relay that is connected to the "low" cable, and a cable from pin 87 to the "low" pin on your lamp connector.
Then you make a cable with an inline fuse directly from battery + to pin 30 on the relay that is connected to the "high" cable, and a cable from pin 87 to the "high" pin on your lamp connector.
Now route a cable from your bulb connector "ground" to a good ground on the vehicle or directly to the battery.
Repeat for the other side of the vehicle.
If you took decent size cables and quality relays (eg Bosch 30A) you now have full battery voltage at your headlights, instead of down to 10V with older vehicles with the stock system in the typical state of decay. You have also taken a lot of load from the stock light switch and hi/low switch.
This will give you much more light even with the stock headlights, and will work with bulbs up to 360 Watts per filament (And those would burn your housings in minutes)
This will not work with daytime running lights, because on the CTD they do pulse the high beams extremely fast to achieve the yellowish "low voltage" look.
This would make the high beam relay try to switch on and off at a high frequency and simply kill the relay.
HTH
AlpineRAM
PS- this works also for a sports headlight conversion or other lights that have more than one filament for high beam. Just connect the appropriate pin on the additional light to the pin 87 on the "high" relay., and ground to the ground pin.
LEDs and Halos do also work because after the relays you have always + for powering the filament and - for the ground.

shows you the relay, and
shows you the 9004 pinout.Now you either cut the old factory connector off or you get a spare connector and it's counterpart to attach the cables. (I suggest doing this so you can easily unplug your contraption and you are back to stock)
Either way, you connect the cable "low" that went to your bulb to pin 85 on the relay, and the cable " ground " that went to the bulb to pin 86.
For the next relay you do the same with the "high" and "ground" wires.
Now you make a cable with an inline fuse directly from battery + to pin 30 on the relay that is connected to the "low" cable, and a cable from pin 87 to the "low" pin on your lamp connector.
Then you make a cable with an inline fuse directly from battery + to pin 30 on the relay that is connected to the "high" cable, and a cable from pin 87 to the "high" pin on your lamp connector.
Now route a cable from your bulb connector "ground" to a good ground on the vehicle or directly to the battery.
Repeat for the other side of the vehicle.
If you took decent size cables and quality relays (eg Bosch 30A) you now have full battery voltage at your headlights, instead of down to 10V with older vehicles with the stock system in the typical state of decay. You have also taken a lot of load from the stock light switch and hi/low switch.
This will give you much more light even with the stock headlights, and will work with bulbs up to 360 Watts per filament (And those would burn your housings in minutes)
This will not work with daytime running lights, because on the CTD they do pulse the high beams extremely fast to achieve the yellowish "low voltage" look.
This would make the high beam relay try to switch on and off at a high frequency and simply kill the relay.
HTH
AlpineRAM
PS- this works also for a sports headlight conversion or other lights that have more than one filament for high beam. Just connect the appropriate pin on the additional light to the pin 87 on the "high" relay., and ground to the ground pin.
LEDs and Halos do also work because after the relays you have always + for powering the filament and - for the ground.
I think the best main headlight upgrade is to just buy sport headlight housings and ignore the aftermarket housings (projector or not).
Or keep the OEM (non-sport) and add a good set of fog or driving lights.
I wish I was as fine, as those who work the pipeline!
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,639
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From: Wyoming
got these 1 piece projector lites for the truck, they look and fit great but they change it from a 2 bulb setup to a 4 bulb by splitting the factory plug, this does not work it creates feedback in the highbeam circuit, any ideas?
here are the lites
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=
here are the lites
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=
I think the problem is your kit is wired for a positive switched system not a ground switched system. I eventually got it worked out with some help from the guys on here.
I have a schematic for our ground based system somewhere. Let me know if you need it, I will try to find it in the mean time.


