INstalling gauges tomorrow anything I sould know?
 

I am going to install pricol egt, trans, and fuel pressure gauges. The trans temp screws into a port on the trans mission...How much fluid will I lose taking the plug out and putting the temp probe in? Also is there anything I should be aware of when installing the fuel isolator, from what I understand you want to mount it on the firewall. I bought the entire kit from DPS off this website, Great customer service and prompt shipping.

dont run the isolator.

most dont. if you seal everything up correctly it will not leak, and you will not have to tear it apart when the isolator acts up.

take your time and make it look neat.

not sure on the trans temp probe.


Pat

Don't try to "save" the factory A-pillar... You'll leave the gauges or replace the pillar when you sell, so cut away and give your lines & gauges all the rrom they need. The port on the side of the tranny is a pressurized fluid galley... You should lose little to no tranny fluid. Don't know it your came painted or not, but stop by the auto paint supply store or dealer and get the pods painted the first time... It's a pain to pull apart down the road.

DANGER! DANGER!
Do a search for info on drilling the exhaust manifold for the pyro thermocouple. It is best for it to be "pre" turbo, and there are some tricks to not getting metal shavings into the turbo.

Please see my reader's gallery for a pic of the "proper" pyro probe location. Note location is on rear part of manifold. Also note distance from turbo flange, and other details. IMPORTANT: Do not tap your pyro hole too deeply! You want it so that the TIP of the prove is resting in the exact center of the manfold port, as best you can. Tapping the hole too deeply puts the tip too close to the bottom of the port, and can give you artificially cool readings.

jlh

If you putthe egt probe in the exhuast manifold just before the (pre) turbo do not drill the center of theexhuast manifold. The manifold is divided, so you want to drill the rear part, for best results.

Are you saying to cut the holes in the A-pillar plastic panel itself, as opposed
to attaching one of those "pre-fabbed" 3 hole A-piller's?

(total gauge newbie)

They are made to go over the factory pillar.

Unless you're doing two senders for the pyro, don't do post-turbo. Take the time to go Pre-Turbo, and do it right.

When you go to shutoff, idling for 1-2 minutes is plenty to cool it down.

cut holes in the factory A-pillar to allow room/clearance when you install the "pre-fabbed" 3 hole on top of it.

You can also put the factory A-pillar cover in the closet and just use the after-market A-pillar cover and secure it with 1 sheet metal screw. That is what I did and it gives more room.

Jim

As for the fuel pressure guage setup if you deside your going needle valve here is a layout of ther parts you'll need.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...CF1804-med.JPG

As for drilling and tapping the manifold... So will go through the truoble of pulling the turbo off and others will do a careful clean up of the hole. I opted for the clean up method. I had a buddy hold a shop vac close to the drill as I drilled the hole slowly. I also used grease on the bit. As for tapping I used grease again. We fished out the few bits and pieces with a magnet and a Q-Tip. No problems with the turbo and 20K later! As for location here is a pic of my setup...

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...CF1899-med.JPG