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Installed TQ lock up switch

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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 07:40 PM
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Turbo-Dodge's Avatar
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Installed TQ lock up switch

Just finished wiring my TQ lock up switch. Works good but, I'm throwing the trani codes 0743 and 1765 I think they were. Is there anyway to run the Switch without throwing a code?
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 07:42 PM
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Did you put a relay on it? Jumper wire? I wound up doing both but some have said that its one or the other.
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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You can either pull the relay and jump it or put a resistor in the grounded side of your LU switch. You can get them @ Radio Shack. I used #271-1104 33-Ohm. You can just solder one in-line. They come 5 for a buck. I was in a Radio Shack just the other day and I think they are still about the same price.
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 08:28 PM
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Oh yeah, I also put a resistor on it...so I did all three...just to cover my bases.
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 08:52 PM
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i kinda have an idea of what the tc lock up switch would be good for but can anyone explain what you would use it for and its benefits?

im a newbie
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 09:10 PM
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After I posted i found the resister part went to radio shack got it all in havent tested it out yet. How does the resister act different then a jumper? That's the part I don't understand
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 09:50 PM
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Works like a champ in 2nd locked up it wont start to stall my motor or make vibrating noise till bout 1000rpm runs fine around 1300 1500
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 11:01 PM
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Im not sure how the resistor makes the dif either, but I ran mine with one and I sure like that there are no codes now.

woodsRIDER..
As for what it does, It locks up the TC in any gear (best not in 1st) and allows you the power straight from the power house to get to the ground more full on.
Its harder on stock trans and even on slightly built trans, still puts alot of strain on shafts and clutches when shifting locked up.

Best used for Racin, locking up in second and using all your power then rather then waiting till half way through 3rd to get it all..
And for towin, lock up in second on a steep windy grade to keep from constant shifting which also keeps trans temp way down.

HTH, Ian.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbo-Dodge
After I posted i found the resister part went to radio shack got it all in haven't tested it out yet. How does the resister act different then a jumper? That's the part I don't understand
It allows you to keep the relay in without throwing codes or going into limp mode.

Originally Posted by DodgenIt
I'm not sure how the resistor makes the dif either, but I ran mine with one and I sure like that there are no codes now.

woodsRIDER..
As for what it does, It locks up the TC in any gear (best not in 1st) and allows you the power straight from the power house to get to the ground more full on.
Its harder on stock trans and even on slightly built trans, still puts alot of strain on shafts and clutches when shifting locked up.

Best used for Racin, locking up in second and using all your power then rather then waiting till half way through 3rd to get it all..
And for towing, lock up in second on a steep windy grade to keep from constant shifting which also keeps trans temp way down.

HTH, Ian.
Pretty good explanation.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 12:48 AM
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I know it keep from throwing a code after I switched it out 20min after the install with a jumper. Just dont under stand how you have to eliminate the relay with jumper and how leaving relay and putting resister in is any were close to the same thing?
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 07:09 AM
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From: L.A. (Lower Arkansas)
Originally Posted by Turbo-Dodge
I know it keep from throwing a code after I switched it out 20min after the install with a jumper. Just dont under stand how you have to eliminate the relay with jumper and how leaving relay and putting resister in is any were close to the same thing?
Its magic. I use mine for towing and has come in handy many times. Coming down a steep grade you can put the tranny in 2nd, lock her up and let it ease you down without touching the brakes...not as good as an exhaust brake but for the money, you can't beat it. As said earlier, be careful shifting locked up cause things do break.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbo-Dodge
I know it keep from throwing a code after I switched it out 20min after the install with a jumper. Just dont under stand how you have to eliminate the relay with jumper and how leaving relay and putting resister in is any were close to the same thing?
Without the resister the computer sees the wrong voltage for lock up and throws the trans into limp mode. Jumping the relay or putting in the resister puts the voltage back within a range the computer likes.
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 06:17 PM
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Stock trans. will only lock in 3rd and 4th, it takes a shift kit or valve body urgrade for the switch to lockup 2nd.
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 04:53 PM
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Well, I got my Goerend installed today and he sent me the TC lockup switch, resistor, and fuse holder for the resistor. Problem is, the instructions are in Greek or something. One is the standard .pdf showing to splice into the orange/black wire with the switch to ground. Another shows putting the resistor inline (cutting the orange wire without the runner) and no switch.

I thought the correct way to do it was to splice into (not cut but tap off of) the orange/black wire and put a switch on that. Place the resistor on the downside of the switch to where the ground is so it looks like this:

Orange/Black wire - tapped wire to switch - switched wire to resistor - resistor to ground.

Is that right????
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by sheriffav8r
Well, I got my Goerend installed today and he sent me the TC lockup switch, resistor, and fuse holder for the resistor. Problem is, the instructions are in Greek or something. One is the standard .pdf showing to splice into the orange/black wire with the switch to ground. Another shows putting the resistor inline (cutting the orange wire without the runner) and no switch.
I don't know why the resister without the switch. The resister keeps the voltage in a range the computer likes which for some reason changes without the relay installed. At least that was my understanding. Ask Dave as he will know for sure on both of those things.

Originally Posted by sheriffav8r
I thought the correct way to do it was to splice into (not cut but tap off of) the orange/black wire and put a switch on that. Place the resistor on the downside of the switch to where the ground is so it looks like this:

Orange/Black wire - tapped wire to switch - switched wire to resistor - resistor to ground.

Is that right????
Basically that's it. I did cut my wire instead. Works fine. Only issue I have had was breaking the plastic switch handle the other night when it was locked up. I got it unlocked with my pocket knife and bought another switch on the way home. I think I'm going to put a connection in the wire I can disconnect in case something like that happens again. Years ago I had an Allison in a fire truck lock up and not unlock. After it was fixed the mechanic showed me where they put a disconnect so if it happened again you could just pull the wire apart and be on your way to the shop.
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