Injectors/ Heat Issues
 

Can my bigger injectors cause block heat problems? Towing 4 horse living 1/4 trailer up hills block heats up faster than pyro. Recovers very quickly once I either slow down or road levels out, have had radiator flushed and removed and cleaned ( wasnt too bad), new fan clutch, new t-stat. Going to dealer tomorrow not sure I dont have either a head gasket or freeze plug leaking Lost alomost 1 gallon coolant on 4 hour trip. This has been issue since new injectors went in about 3 months ago. Tough for dealer to repeat symtoms unless tech goes for a ride (dealer not real enthused about tech going for a ride long enough to get to a mountain climb) when I have the trailer loaded and hooked. Have not heard any one else here on DTR complain about block heat w/ bigger injectors, so I am hoping it can be fixed.

Will injectors cause any warranty issues?

Looking for help to cool it down so I can enjoy the injectors.

Thanks

No...the injectors aren't gonna cause this problem. Do you see any brown/green color on you engine block around the head? Does the oil look white/gray? If coolant is being lost...not only the head gasket can be faulty, but how about the oil cooler leaking? I've seen guys overlook the obvious like a bad radiator cap that won't hold pressure.

With just an edge comp tapped and stock injectors, I raced a power choke up Malad summit about 5600' at the summit and about 1500 foot climb and I had my comp on level 2x4. I was towing tandem axle 16 foot horse trailer full of my sister's apartement stuff, i'd guess 5-7500 lbs in tow. Anyway, i beat the power joke to the summit and then looked down to see my temp gauge in the red! I let off and I happened to be at the summit so temp came down quickly. I did not have a pyro at the time so who knows but with just a comp, no injectors it can get too much for the stock cooling system.

I have two questions for you:

1. Where is your pyro mounted?

2. What was the outside air temp when you had problems?

Water Wetter by Redline is a great product that will bring you down 20 to 30* for sure, at less than 10 bucks it is cheap. But if you have other problems like headgasket, oil cooler leak, etc, this will not help much if any. What kind of egts do you see anyway?

outside air temp 100 plus a/c turned off

pyro temp is not the problem it is the engine temp that is

oil looks fine but am seeing residue where head meets block just above water pump cant tell if it is freeze plug or gasket - area is in line of fan effect - have lost about 3 qts of coolant in less than couple hundred miles am not seeing coolant when parked but can definately smell just walking by after been running

new radiator cap

Thanks

i've seen two issues cause this problem (i myself have it to) water pump is getting old and/or the rad needs to be cleaned out by a rad shop.

If pyro is not a problem but lets say you mistakenly mounted it post turbo and you're running 1100*. That would be a problem for sure.

Now if you are not pushing the motor too hard but still having problems, you could have a bad head gasket and fire is escaping the fire ring and super heating the coolant system and flash boiling 3 quarts a tankful away.

Jammer 3's can get plenty hot you're sure egt's are fine? I just want to take one more factor out of the equation to be sure that coolant is leaking out of where it is not supposed to.

Well -- until now I thought the pyro was fine but you all have me thinkin pyro it is post turbo but I never let it get above 900, however, it will not get that high before the block temp is too high.

Dealer just called and said water pump. I guess I will keep my fingers crossed. Of course the 5 years has passed and warranty wont work - $300 for water pump. $170 parts $120 labor. Owning autos and homes is so much fun.
Just spent $3550 to paint home, and $11k for new roof. Merry Christmas Honey

120$ to install a water pump!? Unless I am mistaken ( which has happened) and a 24v water pump is very different from a 12V water pump , it is a two bolt , 15 minute job.

I hate to deliver bad news but 900 post turbo could be borderline too hot, depends on how much boost you are pushing/ how much heat the turbine is extracting from the turbo. I have heard difference between pre and post ranging from 100-450* If by chance you are maintaining 1300 pre turbo, you could be simply pushing the motor too hard. I'm no expert, this is what I have heard. If you are losing coolant, I would think that you have other problems. Do you still lose coolant when you keep coolant temps in the normal operating range?

I just replaced my water pump about two weeks ago. $60 bucks at the local auto parts palce and maybe 15-20 minutes to do. No mechanical skills needed.

I had coolant disapearing too. The loss of coolant was not as extreme as yours. It seemed to get low after towing, which I did alot. The dealer said they could not find anything. For about four years I had noticed the oil pan seemed to be leaking oil slightly. I always checked the water pump hole but was always clear. Last December the water pump went out. I put on the new pump and everything is fine. What I thought was a leaking oil pan gasket was the water pump leaking very slowly. For all this time that was the problem. After I had the pump off, I could see were it was leaking for a long time. Might be worth replacing. Bunyan

Thanks for all of the replies, new water pump going now and hopefully all will be cool. Plan on hauling a load of horses up the mountain this weekend, will see how we do. Going to move pyro probe next week.

Where is the water pump weep hole?

I know it's an owner's manual item that you're supposed to check, but I've honestly never checked mine...

Justin