Ill be honest im learning this game every day, and i thank all of you for the quick help! I did alot of reading about the 1st gens, and now Im trying to catch up on the 2nd gen terms.

Lets say for instance I found a 96 5spd truck. What is the difference between the TST POwer KIt and the AFC Spring kit? I mean I can see the visual difference but how does each affect the engine? Also with either of these mods, is a 3kGSK needed?

Will a stock clutch take the above mods, I guess with either a 11 or 10 plate?

part 2...after doing such mods with 4" exhaust and a good BHAF/intake. Does the 12cm w/g become too small, and if so will a 16cm non gated housing work better?

Thanks to all.

 

This might help.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1

 

Here you go, read up on these posts..

GSK,

Yup you will definately need one of those to better spread out the power from your truck, stock it will defuel at about 2200 rpms, with the spring kit it will hit at least 3200 before it will start to defuel.

A TST kit, well that is basically a torque plate and screws... more info below...

Torque plates.... ok this is a torque plate right here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=500&page=1

More commonly reffered to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flatt plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The one you see there is my banks plate, screwy yes, i know, i dont get it myself. that plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and u loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flatt, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real PITA to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

Which one is right for you.. id say the ten if you are not gonna be that aggressive with it, but the 100 is downright WICKED!! that be the one to go with, the zero is just too much at the low end for me but for dynos and racin, its awesome!.. The zero, PM Northslope AWESOME AWESOME WORK, and ull be helpin out a fellow DTR member, and the zero plate you can grind yourself, well you can do either or, but PM northslope do a search for plate grinding, started by gunracer1.. good instructions..

The reason i posted this was to urge you to get a better clutch, the stocker will handle it, provided that you are easy on it, NOw i got you thinkin you might want a zero or a 100 plate, well yes they are good, but i still have my banks on there for daily driving, the occasional romp ill toss in one plate or the other, but not till i get a better clutch..

Your stocker will be ok with a 10 or 11 with just normal driving, I have no experience with the 12 cm housing, simply cause mine came with a 14 cm when i got it, and the egts are not too bad... the four inch exhaust and better air intake is always a better idea if you are gonna add fuel to your fire....

Best of luck!

Tx




Tx

 

Here is a pic of a #10 & a #100 plate for comparison. I have a stock plate pic in my gallery as well as the GSK springs.

EDIT:

Sorry guys tried to upload this pic last night didnt go.

Dusty

 

Very VERY nice pics on the profiles, mind if I copy and paste????

 

Be my Guest and thanks for the compliment. Now all I have to do is get to grinding to make a #100.

 

So basically to make a 100 plate you just gind that little nipple off? I'm I right. I'm also wanting to learn a little more about the 12ers. I might try and pick one up here pretty soon.

 

I just uploaded a new pic showing all three fuel plates a #10, #100 & stock.

Dusty

 

bump

 

Not quite

if you look closely the 100 plate is more of a J curve, starts out slow then goes to all out defueling, Save urself the trouble and help a fellow DTR member, PM northslope for a heck of a deal on a plate, or check out Gunracer1's plate grinding post...

Tx

 

Something I always wondered about, when you see #plate is that pronounced number plate or pound?

 

Number