Computer assisted designing is thesedays within grasp of a hobbyist's budget.
I am using engine analyzer program by the company below. Among other things, it has helped me to design a tuning camshaft for a small German 4-banger diesel engine. The cam is ground up and installed in my friend's car. It works as software predicted.

I'd love to tinker with 4-links, only if my car would have them.

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4-Link Calculator v2.0 for Windows 95/98/Me/XP/2000/NT

Computer Program to Simulate and Analyze Rear Suspension 4-Link Setups for Instant Center, Pinion Angle and Driveshaft Angle Change, Anti-Squat %, and More for Drag Racing




Please have a look here: Performance Trends Inc - 4 link analyzer

 

I just built a set this past week. The frame end is about identical to your design GetBlown. I welded a bracket to the axle and made the standard one frame with two axle links. I also added some triangulation within the bars. I'll try and get some pictures up. I made them so they run close to the driveshaft angle, but closer to being parallel to the ground. I get zero binding with mine. I used heims at all 6 joints. The tubing was 1.25" and was 3/16" thick. With the triangulation I can't imagine how they would bend. If anything goes it will be a heim. I backed onto a rock and the rear can still articulate as much as the springs allow. I don't get the bounce when I back up a hill now, either. I'll try and get some pictures posted up.

 

i wanna keep tabs on this.

Crimedog i am looking at building the same set up as you so the more info and pics the better

thank you
BCB

 

I am also very interested in this thread, keep the ideas coming fellas!

 

Good picks JD, did you do the same type of bracket on the frame? I'm a little paranoid about welding on the frame due to warrenty issues. I was hoping to find a bolt on design but I guess it would be difficult with our U-Bolt design.

 

Here you go. Not very good but just some tab things welded to frame.

 

I should have my 85" bars on tonight. I'll post pics ASAP.

 

So what exactly is it these things are supposed to do? Compensate for increased susceptibility to axle torque wrap due to the lift blocks?

I'm an old street racer from way back, and we used something now called Caltracs (commercialized by a fellow named Calvert who sells them from somewhere out in CA, I believe). But the good fabricators made their own something like this:

http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html

Not sure why you're welding bars to the frame creating binding problems and warranty issues when you could use a bell crank to accomplish the same thing with no binding and a pretty much straight bolt-on. Might not be right for extreme lifts, but otherwise???

A leaf sring is a leaf spring whether it is on a car or a truck, right? Or maybe I completely missed the point here, dunno...

 

ill be welding a mounting bracket to the frame, which will have heim joints to still allow the bars to move, flex, and rotate without binding, but will eliminate the rotation of the axle tube and pinion angle, i have about 2 weeks to get them built while my clutch is being rebuilt and installed. i want the rear end to feel solid when i take off and not feel that vibration and slapping back there. im going to a much harsher clutch soon, and will start sled pulling this summer, i need to have these to prevent any broken driveshafts

 

Diesel Darryl Poole sells traction bar kits that are basically bolt on 1.5" OD and work very well and tested on sledpullin trucks.

 

Ok, finally got some pictures of mine. I was out of town for a bit of the weekend and then found out that Dad took the camera up north with him.... but they are in my gallery pending approval.

 

crimedog: they look great!!!

do you have any binding or any problems at all with those?

 

Has anybody tried gusting in the rear end and running a single bar parallel to the drive shaft?

 

BCB, no binding problems for me. The rear end can articulate as much as it wants to (not too much with the stock springs though!). I have no binding problems whatsoever.

Driverno, I know a couple people who just use one traction bar on their offroad jeeps, but I don't think it would be strong enough on our trucks.

I should add though, on my frame mouting bracket I broke my last 1/2" drill bit so there is one bolt missing per side. There is now 3 bolts on the side of the frame rail and 2 on the bottom of the frame. 5 - 1/2" grade 5 bolts per side should hold quite a bit.

 

correct me if I am wrong, but it looks to me like you are missing a bolt on the drivers side top mount, where it attaches to the axle. or maybe I am on drugs, either one...