hey i got a 96 ram 2500 4x4 CTD. it has a 5 speed with a posi rear end. I am looking for opinions on what i should do for upgrades. I was looking to clear 37's but now 35's seem more reasonable. I plan on ordering either South Bends MU 0090 CON O clutch 400hp / 900lb/ft or the MU 13-1.25 Con OFE 450hp / 1000lb/ft. now with the bigger clutch will it still bolt in place of the OE clutch? the kit does come with the new flywheel. i was also wondering what upgrades would be reasonable to put atleast 350 hp to the ground without making myself broke just yet. and one more thing... anyone got any recomandations for dual exauhst?

 

The OFE will work good for what you are planning.
As for upgrades: #10 plate or grind your own, 3k gov kit or search for the free mod, injectors (marine, or newearadiesel for inexpensive ones), used turbo or upgraded stock. Sounds like a lot of $$$ but not too much. Don't forget gauges.
Dual exhaust: Rip Rook at sourceautomotive.biz They fit good, look good, and can't beat the price.

 

Both the Con O and Con OFE are factory clutches reworked and feel just like stock, if not smoother. Our OFE actually smoothed out the shifts and is easier to push the pedal in now.

 

where would i be able to find those parts?

 

I go through Dieselnutmotorports.com

 

You can find most of the parts I listed at any diesel performance shop or ebay. The dual exhaust is at source automotive and injectors at neweradiesel. Those shops will probably have everything you need if you just ask.
Just call southbend for the clutch.
For the free mods search the archives here for more info.

 

neweradiesel has the option of 300, 370, or 435 injectors. which one's should i get? i'm guessing the 370's.... but like i said thats only a guess. i'm not too well edumacated on diesel preformance yet. also what turbo do you recommend? the HTBG is rated @ 350-425 on neweradiesel website. are their turbos reliable?

 

one more question... will i need a programmer for all of this to work right?

 

Nope, your engine is all mechanically controlled. And for that be thankful.

 

I am also gonna reccomend a GSK to widen the powerband, as it lets the engine fuel hard to about 3200 PRM or so, and bumping the timing, which would help power at higher RPM, and fuel economy.

 

thanks but i'm kinda stupid... ... what is a GSK and where can it be found?

 

It is the springs that control fuel delivery, in relation to RPM, it causes the engine to defuel. You can use stiffer springs, or shims to increase the RPM where the engine defuels. Here is a cutaway of your IP, showing all the parts.
http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=182

 

Good call on the timing, missed that one.
Injectors depend on your power needs/wants. 435s are too big for what you are planning. The 300s would probably get you where you want to be, but you may wish you had gotten the 370s.
If you are going to buy a S300 based turbo I recommend starting at the 62 range and looking up not down. I would get the htb2 62. It will spool a little slower than the factory turbo, but it will make up for it once it gets going.
Look for turbos at High Tech turbo, Industrial injection, Forced inductions, or ebay if you find out what you are wanting. They all carry a turbo that will fit your needs.

 

Your goal is easily attained..

im at 350 right now (well not so much anymore, have a good clutch now and other stuff) but if none of this stuff makes sence to you, here is a better explanation

THIS is just to get a little more power out of your ram. You can do serveral things, i see you are getting gauges, and you have an air intake on the way. which is good. Now this is an into to the main power source of the ram, Your P7100 Pump, and what you can tweak on it for more power. You can also time it, but thats advanced, well at least for me... use this as an intro more than anything.. I tried my best to explain it.... here goes... and

I meant to say post.... sorry.....

Here is an intro the link to the pic might not work, but u can see it as banks plate in my gallery.....

to get more power out of your truck the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix.

A governers spring kit, Reffered to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow powerband from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governer arm adjustment and your plate positioning. A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100 (PM northslope for wicked work! ) and a zero plate. Piers Diesel Research and Hot Rod Diesels have them for the same price, The fuel plate... here is my explanation....

Torque plates.... ok this is a torque plate right here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=500&page=1

More commonly reffered to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flatt plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The one you see there is my banks plate, screwy yes, i know, i dont get it myself. that plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and u loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flatt, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real PITA to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. If you read my literal "dissertation" of a post hehehehehehe. it tells u the procedure on how to do it. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.

The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown soleniod (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those ull notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move teh shutdown soleniod out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..

When you are in there its simple adjustment, u just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. If you dont have gauges, dont set it full forward, If you do have gauges set it forward for a 30 or so rwhp increase!

Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it.PS having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS...

Which one is right for you.. id say the ten if you are not gonna be that aggressive with it, but the 100 is downright WICKED!! that be the one to go with, the zero is just too much at the low end for me but for dynos and racin, its awesome!.. The zero, PM Northslope AWESOME AWESOME WORK, and ull be helpin out a fellow DTR member, and the zero plate you can grind yourself, well you can do either or, but PM northslope do a search for plate grinding, started by gunracer1.. good instructions..

Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto.....if you are going to play hard, in most cases if you just want a modest power gain, just get a 10 plate, set it a lil bit forward, and a GSK will wake up your truck. In the stock position its easily drivable and fun as well.

Waste gate, if i was good with pictures id put one up for you, but im sure you know what the wastegate looks like, that head looking deal, it is usually hooked to a rubber or similar airline, you want a little more boost? You can get a longer hose or pinch it up, There is a thread, i dont member where tho, where it shows someone improperly blocking the wastgate with a screw.... Well that aint good.. Anyways

Also make sure you get the KDP done on that truck as well... Not hard to do, look in my previous posts, KDP Report Using TST kit, or somethin similar to that......

PS this is cut and paste of other posts, sorry if its redundant....

Best of luck and hope that this helps..

Tx


PS, for 350 alone? my recipe is 4K GSK, a 100 plate 2/3 forward starwheel 1/2 back, 181 DV's and AFC full forward. It worked for me with 285 tires an a manual tranny.. DONT expect the stock clutch to hold too much above that..

 

thanks for the breakdown Tx... it helps alot!