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48RE Valve Body/47RE Tranny
ok here it is.. I am trying to find out what everyone thinks about the 48re valve body in the 47re trannys. I can find nothing but great news on them is there anyone who can point out some bad news?
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why would you do this?
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I believe it is supposed to up the pressure in the transmission...
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There is an adjustment screw that you can up the line pressure in your 47re tranny. I believe that 48re needs a different computer than the 47 does. My tranny is an re-47 with some re-48 internals. I original thought that my was a re-48, but I have been told differently.
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If you want a high line pressure valve body check out
www.htstransmissions.com |
When chris at relentless installed my 47re Vb from DTT he asked me if I had gotten the 48. He said the pressures in those are like 200psi where as mine is only 150 (which is as high as DTT puts it on the 47re, at least for my combo). Big difference in holding power. It's also a bigger difference in price. Something like $200-400 difference.
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im not worried about the prices of the 48re valve body because local tranny shop can get ahold of them for 147.00 out of there catalog. I was told that you have to swap out the electrical parts on the valve body with some off a 47re valve body or just buy new ones. I was just wandering if anyone has tryed this combo out becuase i seen in the latest truck magazine with multiple people in te DHRA having this done to there 47re trannys. The local tranny shop said there is no difference between the 47re and the 48re except the internal parts....im just looking for something to have a little more holding power because im tired of swapping out my clutch pads from frying them at the track.... they add up quickly...
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so there is noone else running this setup?.... or knows the flaws to it?.....
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The 48 Re Valve Body Obviously Bolts Into A 47re If The
Rooster Comb Is Changed So The Neutral Safety Switch That Came In Your Trans Case Can Be Reused. The Only Real Pressure Difference In Stock Form From A 47 To A 48 V/b Is The Boost Pressure, Meaning The Pressure It Uses After The Third Gear Shift Has Been Completed. The Boost Pressure Is 30-40 Psi Higher In A 48re For Overdrive And Tcc Lockup Engagement. Aside From That The Seperator Plates, Pr Valve, Reverse Boost Valve Are Other Changes Along With Some Others To Acheive That Higher Boost Pressure. I Don't Know If The 47pcm Would Set A Trouble Code With A 48 V/b Or Not, Never Tried. What Can Be Gained From A 47 V/b Is Perfectly Fine For Your Situation. Also Note Chrysler Changed The Second Gear Lever From 3.8 To 5.0 On The 48 Re Trans And Making No Other Changes Had To Slow The Front Clutch Apply Time Down So The 5.0 Lever Could Release In Time And Not Cause Further Bindup. They Did This So They Did Not Have To Spend Money On Adding More Return Springs To The Frt Clutch Which Would Slow The Apply Down But Could Also Inhibit It's Clamping Force. They Also Did Not Change The Frt Servo Or Return Spring Which Would Cost Money. If You Put A 48 V/b In A 47 For The Boost Increase You Might Cause A Flare Problem On The 2-3 Shift If You Change Nothing Else In The Transmission. Bottom Line: Have Your V/b Upgraded For More Pressure, Put Good Clutches In The Trans And You Should Be Alright. Dhawk Ad removed site violation |
thanks Dhawk.... ive been playing with tranny for some time now and i have had tons of trouble. I have gone threw 3 different valve bodys including one from ATS from when i use to run a ATS single disk converter and there valve body for the longest time before on a single turbo. I have now beefed up the power which has put more stress on the trans. I have stressed fractured the veins in one valve body.... second valve body i put a shift kit in myself and i had a check ball slam threw the little hole flattening it partially causing it to not shift correctly anymore. Then third valve body which we increased the pressure settings on caused the helix coils in the holes on one side com eout allowing fluid to transfer across the top of veins which made the tranny overheat. I am currently running a Generic Stock Valve Body and it has stayed together but i cant get gears to hold up under boost. FIrst and Second are find.. its mainly when going into 4th and sometimes 3rd.......... Ill slip so bad going into 4th sometimes the truck will stall.........
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Originally Posted by johnsjas
If you want a high line pressure valve body check out
www.htstransmissions.com |
Originally Posted by DHAWK
The 48 Re Valve Body Obviously Bolts Into A 47re If The
Rooster Comb Is Changed So The Neutral Safety Switch That Came In Your Trans Case Can Be Reused. The Only Real Pressure Difference In Stock Form From A 47 To A 48 V/b Is The Boost Pressure, Meaning The Pressure It Uses After The Third Gear Shift Has Been Completed. The Boost Pressure Is 30-40 Psi Higher In A 48re For Overdrive And Tcc Lockup Engagement. Aside From That The Seperator Plates, Pr Valve, Reverse Boost Valve Are Other Changes Along With Some Others To Acheive That Higher Boost Pressure. I Don't Know If The 47pcm Would Set A Trouble Code With A 48 V/b Or Not, Never Tried. What Can Be Gained From A 47 V/b Is Perfectly Fine For Your Situation. Also Note Chrysler Changed The Second Gear Lever From 3.8 To 5.0 On The 48 Re Trans And Making No Other Changes Had To Slow The Front Clutch Apply Time Down So The 5.0 Lever Could Release In Time And Not Cause Further Bindup. They Did This So They Did Not Have To Spend Money On Adding More Return Springs To The Frt Clutch Which Would Slow The Apply Down But Could Also Inhibit It's Clamping Force. They Also Did Not Change The Frt Servo Or Return Spring Which Would Cost Money. If You Put A 48 V/b In A 47 For The Boost Increase You Might Cause A Flare Problem On The 2-3 Shift If You Change Nothing Else In The Transmission. Bottom Line: Have Your V/b Upgraded For More Pressure, Put Good Clutches In The Trans And You Should Be Alright. Dhawk Hts.transmissions.com Actually I find the 48 shifts better all around, seems happier dealing with higher line pressure and has proven to be more consistent than the 47 valve-body. (Especially going into third and overdrive at wot.) The downside is it more susceptible to contamination from debris in the oil messing up the electronics. Dhawk, I think it’s great that you are willing to address these kinds of questions. I checked out your webpage. It looks like you are utilizing a couple companies’ components. The one that really struck me as being really odd was the aluminum front drum option. I don’t see how this would even last the limited 90 day warrantee. (Scratch that… I know it wouldn't in my truck.) As everybody knows the band will eat through the aluminum in a diesel drag truck application. I think aluminum drums are ment for light vehicles worried about lowering rotating mass. I have been racing my diesel truck since 2000. Which I suppose is why I ended up making transmission components. I am blown away that Bully Dog components retail are the same price as mine and while their warrantee is only 90 days vs. 2 years. But then again lately here others have claims that don’t make sense to me either. Examples include a PE4200 pump that has worked for over 100,000 miles and even Big Blue’s new valve body by itself that enables his old oem tranny to hold over 370 hp. Opie |
yes help me with my dilema... I have had to replace the clutchs and steels in the overdrive more times then i cant count on one hand.. They just started to slip again and its been less then 9k miles...
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Originally Posted by storx
yes help me with my dilema... I have had to replace the clutchs and steels in the overdrive more times then i cant count on one hand.. They just started to slip again and its been less then 9k miles...
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thanks.. hopely he can help me out.. but i much rather have the info public so if someone else needs it... it would be available....
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