3 gsk and mild pump plate on stock trans?
 

He guys first time poster. I have a 95 ram 2500 CTD with a automatic. I have been toying with the idea of some mild performance mods before I can afford a new TC and V body. I have 4" downpipe, and K&N intake. I am wondering if I could get away with a 3gsk and a mild pump cam plate. the truck is going to be used for hauling and towing my 76 blaser around 4wheeling. how do i choose good pump plate? recomondations? where should i get the 3gsk and plate?

Thanks

Ethan

A nice TC and VB would be a good performence mod if ur trans is still stock build. A 10 plate, and 3gsk would be a good combo for some extra oomph. But the trans should be priority because even if u have lots of power, if the trans won't plant the power, it's useless.

Does ur truck feel kinda sluggish in the first couple gears, then when u hit OD (or lockup) does it feel like it has alot more power?

even stock the auto will be stressed with constant towing. i'll agree with box5 on the vb and tc for now and then your mild plate and gsk

Mine hits overdrive and it has a lot more power. Almost like different truck. It supposedly had the tranny rebuilt about 45k ago.

Especially since u tow I would hold off on the power mods until after you've upgraded your tranny.

BUT: GAUGES NEED TO COME FIRST!!!

VB and a TC it will feel like a different truck[guitar]

It does grab alot more when shifting into 3rd and OD. would I be safe doing just a VB and TC or should I buy a "built" trans? I was planning on getting trans stuff from georend cause they are close. I live in mankato MN, about an hour south of minneapolis. my initail thought was to get the TC and VB and put in a rebuild kit from the local parts store

Ethan

If your tranny is pretty worn, you may want to get it rebuilt and put in a good VB and TC.

From what I can tell, there are a lot of different ideas about what a "built" transmission is, but you won't need the full-billet stuff for the mods you want to do.

I think a TC and VB are more than enough for the minor stuff you're wanting. Only time you really need billet shafts is when you drive incredibly hard(drag racing/sled pulling) or are putting 500+ rwhp down. Dave is a great guy to talk to, he'll point you in the right direction. Tell him your plans, your hp goal and usage, and he'll hook you up. He won't sell you more than you need, but it will hold with what he says you need.

I'm gonna agree with everyone the vb and tc would be good to do first. I slide my factory plate full foward and run the screw all the way in on a factory trans with 212k on it. I pulled and drove it hard till it died at 234k. I haven't towed a lot with it since I put the vb in it but it hasn't slipped yet with the 100 plate in it. tc and billet input are on the way shortly though