2nd gen 1 piece driveshaft
 

Im looking to buy a 1 piece rear driveshaft for my 2001 3500 quad cab, but I am unsure by reading some previous posts that they dont offer any. Is that true???:didimiss:

Does anybody with a quad cab have one and can you tow heavy with it??:conf:

I heard someone mention Doghouse makes them, who else?

I had complete new custom drivelines made for my '67 W200 by 6 States in Portland. Did a very good job just like I wanted. There are many other places that can do the same type work and let you know if a single piece driveshaft is for you.

So, do you like it was it worth it??[coffee]

I'm guessing you have a long bed with a carrier bearing and now you're looking to eliminate the carrier. If thats the case then yes, people have gone to a one piece driveshaft but in doing so you will change the u-joint angles. So if you want to keep the u-joint angles accurate then the proper way is to make sure the output yoke u-joint angle matches the differential pinion yoke angle so you dont get any vibrations. Any good and reputable driveline shop should be able to make you the driveshaft you need.

Yes. I had to have new ones due to all the driveline changes I had made. The rig was in pieces and since I did not live too far from the shop Ken came over on his lunch and did the measuring in my garage. The front one ended up being a bit too long and they shortened it no problem when I discovered what all the clunking was. :o [laugh] I have about 12 years and over 45,000 miles on them.

My Ram has been off road all over Baja and US deserts carrying a 1750 lb cabover camper with a 3" lift kit installed and my U joints are like new with the factory one piece drive shaft. My point is that adding 24" or so to the drive shaft to make it a one piece will not change the U joint angles much unless I'm missing something. Also, a long time ago I converted a 1965 long bed Chebby to a one piece while adding a V8 and auto trans and had no wear or vibration problems. One of the reasons I ordered my truck rather than buy off the lot was to get a one piece drive shaft (Reg cab, long bed 4X4). I've had problems in the past with carrier bearings in a GMC Suburban 3/4 ton tow vehical and now avoid 2 piece drive shafts when possible.

Its not the additional length which is changing the angles but the fact that you're no longer running over to the carrier bearing high point and then down to the pinion. So when you run a one piece, you are now pointing the output u-joint angle more downward which increases the angle and pointing the pinion u-joint angle more downward which decreases the angle. Therefor one u-joint is then running at more of an angle than the other which can cause a vibration since for optimal vibration cancellation, both angles must be the same. I'm very sensitive to any vibrations so when I built a high HP 4wd short bed truck, I had to convert the transfercase output yoke to a Bronco non-slip and then run a double cardan joint at the output and angled the pinion at 0*.

I seem to recall with the two piece the front driveshaft is almost level.
Wouldn't that make a steeper angle on the rear driveshaft than it would with a one piece?

That would depend on the angle at the pinion. I dont have a long bed so I cant go out and look.

Thanks for the info!! I will check my truck out for angles.

I had a local shop (Nielsens in Ukiah, CA) build my single piece. Went from 3.5" OD to 4" od and used my stock slipshaft. Going to 4" is to offset deflection flex from the longer length.

Highly recommended. It actually helps with u-joint angle. The stock setup makes the pivot point for the driveline at the carrier bearing so as the axle travels the angle becomes steeper with the OE two piece setup.

But in real world it's about durability. The PLASTIC splines on my two piece were damaged and jamming up causing the driveline to stuff out of the carrier bearing and pushing the slipshaft into the tail housing damaging the seal.

I have read that the extended cab long bed duramax single piece aluminum drive shaft is a bolt up on the long bed extended cab second gen's. My neighbor has a Duramax, and it looks like it would fit to me.

As to towing heavy, I guess it depends on your definition. I pull tractors here and there- I own an excavator and loader/backhoe. The heaviest I have towed is about 11000 hauling a trackloader. It's all twisty (and steep here and there) mountain roads where I live though, so towing is a little more severe than some places.

I have no question as to the durability of my single piece. It is MUCH more durable.