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Plastic repair

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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 12:41 AM
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westcoaster's Avatar
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Plastic repair

My new (to me) Acer extenza 501XD laptop lid is broken at the hinges. Looking at the ones at work this is a typical problem for these. The ideal solution is to get a new screen, but alas I'm cheap and don't want to pony up the bux for something that may get used once or twice a year to program my radio's.

So, I was thinking of gluing a plastic plate over the cracks to give the area some strength and was wondering what the best glue was to use to bond two unknown plastic types together.

I was thinking of that yellow glue used on black sewer pipe, but then I had a vision of the laptop cover melting and disapearing, that stuff's nasty...
Then there is two part epoxy. It's ok, but may not be the best for this.

Any others??
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 12:46 AM
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j-b weld should do it
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 01:54 AM
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gorilla glue maybe
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 04:38 AM
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The only way to go on plastic is some DEVCON Epoxy weld. You can fashion it and pour it thick to re-enforce the plastic. Get the 5 minute kind...the longer the setting time the stronger the rating for the epoxy. It comes in a 2 celled injector. Works great too!

Walmart sells the Devcon stuff.
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 10:05 AM
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We have one of those Harbor Freight plastic welders that require an air-compressor and electricity, sort of melts the joint together.

I have used it with success on several repairs, although not too pretty.

At a woodworking show, I watched a guy demonstrate a cartridge-type hot-glue gun that, with the correct cartridge, would stick anything to anything.

I can't remember the name/brand of the glue and gun; but, many is the time since that I wish I had gave him the eighty bucks for the kit.

Also, at the Farm Machinery Show, a lady demonstrated a glue that took only one drop, put the parts together, then you sprayed this other stuff on the joint, and instantly, it was stuck there for good, thirty bucks for a small kit.

She glued two large wing-nuts, back to back, handed them to me, and, try as I might, they would not budge.

She also glued a piece of rubber to a piece of Teflon and I couldn't pull it apart either.

For your project, I would try gap-filling Bondini cyanoacrylite, found at Walmart, K-Mart, and the like.

I have glued coupler-boxes on model-train cars with Bondini and never had one fail, pulling long strings of cars.
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 12:32 PM
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lord fusion. ive bonded fiberglass fenders together with it, the handle on my new sthil chainsaw (+500hp dodge, no side boards, you do the math) and countless other things. Its VERY good stuff. if it breaks, it wont break where this stuff is bonded together at.

i think i got it at modern parts? good stuff. its a two part epoxy
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by BearKiller

We have one of those Harbor Freight plastic welders that require an air-compressor and electricity, sort of melts the joint together.
I have used it with success on several repairs, although not too pretty.
I've got one of those and it seems like it might do a real good job IF a guy could regulate the temperature. If there was less heat you wouldn't need as much air flow and maybe use argon instead of compressed air. I'm going to try the argon first and then see about regulating the heat. I remeber a unit called a 'Vari-AC' that would allow you to reduce the heat in a soldering gun. There were a lot of them in the engineering labs at Hewlett-Packard in the '60s and '70s; now if I can just find one cheap!
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 04:01 PM
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I can't believe no one recommended duct tape!
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