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Mexstan 03-20-2011 11:15 AM

Liquid solder
 
Seems to me that I remember from another lifetime that there was a product called liquid solder that would actually conduct electricity. Does it still exist and does it conduct electricity? Where to buy this product?

I have an application that has a broken wire going into a small 12 volt motor, so it draws fairly high amps. This motor is seldom used and when it is used, is for seconds at a time. It is almost impossible to remove the motor and as the motor where the wire goes into is all plastic and sealed, had a crazy thought about gluing the wire in place. If I push the wire into the slot, the motor works. Cannot even get my hand into the area and need a long screwdriver to push the wire.

Tallguy67 03-20-2011 11:23 AM

Does JB Weld conduct?

Mexstan 03-20-2011 11:27 AM


Originally Posted by Tallguy67 (Post 2943704)
Does JB Weld conduct?

No, and neither do some of the modern products called liquid solder.

6cylinders 03-20-2011 12:37 PM

Do a google search for "electrically conductive glue", or
"wire glue" ,,here is one search result:

http://www.amazon.com/American-Scien.../dp/B000Z9H7ZW

one link takes you to a guy who
mixed graphite powder with liquid tape:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make...lue-a-Circuit/

Fronty Owner 03-20-2011 01:49 PM

I would say, just replace the motor, but given where you are, that prolly isn't an option.

What about real, lead based solder?

FiverBob 03-20-2011 03:03 PM

I had similar problems on a motor that rotated the radar antenna on a ship ready to leave port - - no time to run around finding another motor. I tinned the end of a new wire with rosin core solder leaving a modest size ball of rosin on the end. I then coated that ball with rosin, put the wire down into the motor the best I could see finding the right spot. I then heated the wire with a fairly good size soldering gun until the rosin melted and coated the area I want to attach to and finally melted the ball of solder on the end of the wire. I had to do it twice to make it work. I then used shrink on the wire to insulate it - - took about an hour and the freighter left port. It was still running 45 days later when they came back and called me to do some more work on their communications gear. Worth a try.

Bob
ps: don't use acid core solder on electrical connections.

Mexstan 03-20-2011 05:00 PM


Originally Posted by 6cylinders (Post 2943731)
Do a google search for "electrically conductive glue", or
"wire glue" ,,here is one search result:

http://www.amazon.com/American-Scien.../dp/B000Z9H7ZW

one link takes you to a guy who
mixed graphite powder with liquid tape:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make...lue-a-Circuit/

Saw that. It is a possibility, but I only want one tiny blob and I want it NOW.


Originally Posted by Fronty Owner (Post 2943754)
I would say, just replace the motor, but given where you are, that prolly isn't an option.

What about real, lead based solder?

Changing the motor is not much of an option even if I was where you live as the location is a pain. Took another long look at the problem and think that maybe if I do some partial dismantling I can maybe remove the screws (if I can reach them) holding the motor in and rotate it enough to, with difficulty, reach the housing for the wires to cut away the plastic so that I can so a real solder job. Will try that later in the week when I have a bit of time. Not even sure if I can get a soldering gun in there even then.


Originally Posted by FiverBob (Post 2943772)
I had similar problems on a motor that rotated the radar antenna on a ship ready to leave port - - no time to run around finding another motor. I tinned the end of a new wire with rosin core solder leaving a modest size ball of rosin on the end. I then coated that ball with rosin, put the wire down into the motor the best I could see finding the right spot. I then heated the wire with a fairly good size soldering gun until the rosin melted and coated the area I want to attach to and finally melted the ball of solder on the end of the wire. I had to do it twice to make it work. I then used shrink on the wire to insulate it - - took about an hour and the freighter left port. It was still running 45 days later when they came back and called me to do some more work on their communications gear. Worth a try.

Bob
ps: don't use acid core solder on electrical connections.

Good idea. Done something similar on other jobs.
Now why shouldn't I use acid core solder?[duhhh]

Fronty Owner 03-20-2011 06:05 PM


Originally Posted by Mexstan (Post 2943799)
Saw that. It is a possibility, but I only want one tiny blob and I want it NOW.



Changing the motor is not much of an option even if I was where you live as the location is a pain. Took another long look at the problem and think that maybe if I do some partial dismantling I can maybe remove the screws (if I can reach them) holding the motor in and rotate it enough to, with difficulty, reach the housing for the wires to cut away the plastic so that I can so a real solder job. Will try that later in the week when I have a bit of time. Not even sure if I can get a soldering gun in there even then.



Good idea. Done something similar on other jobs.
Now why shouldn't I use acid core solder?[duhhh]

what is said equipment that is such a pain to work on??

and you shouldn't use acid core solder, because you need to clean it afterwards and that my not be possible in location.

Mexstan 03-20-2011 06:23 PM


Originally Posted by Fronty Owner (Post 2943825)
what is said equipment that is such a pain to work on??

and you shouldn't use acid core solder, because you need to clean it afterwards and that my not be possible in location.

The horizontal drive motor for the drivers seat in my truck. It is very close to the upholstery with the wires connected on the top of the motor. It's bad enough at the best of times, but I have modified seats and the air suspension needs to be removed to get to anything under the seat.

I was kidding about the acid core solder. Know all about the problems.

Jim Lane 03-20-2011 11:08 PM

Stan,
Have you looked into the conductive paint used to repair the window defrost grids, I have seen both gold and silver base products.

http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...Repair_Kit.htm

Or conductive silver paint used to repair circuit boards.

http://www.highspeedpc.com/Merchant2...e=Overclocking

How to make your own.

http://www.ehow.com/how_5031497_make...ctive-ink.html

Hey Ive seen people solder electrical wires using tinning acid and a torch, wasn't pretty.

Jim

HMX-1 03-21-2011 03:57 AM


Originally Posted by Jim Lane (Post 2944007)
Stan,
Have you looked into the conductive paint used to repair the window defrost grids, I have seen both gold and silver base products.

http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...Repair_Kit.htm

Or conductive silver paint used to repair circuit boards.

http://www.highspeedpc.com/Merchant2...e=Overclocking

How to make your own.

http://www.ehow.com/how_5031497_make...ctive-ink.html

Hey Ive seen people solder electrical wires using tinning acid and a torch, wasn't pretty.

Jim


I was going to suggest this and Jim beat me to it.

I've used this stuff and it should work fine ..... overclocked an older Athlon CPU this way, and it worked great until I couldn't find a motherboard that supported it anymore.

Mexstan 03-21-2011 05:18 AM

Good suggestions, thanks.
Don't know why I never thought about that kit for the defroster strips as I know about them, but just never used them.

Busy for most of this week, so that job is temporarily on the back burner, but will get to it later in the week or early next week as I want this working before I leave on my trip in case my petite wife needs to drive my truck.

Fronty Owner 04-05-2011 09:54 PM

dunno if you got it fixed or if you can get the stuff there, but

http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/b70c/


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