Garage Moisture problems
Garage Moisture problems
When the weather changes my two car connected to my 15x30 vie 8ft opening will look like it was raining inside... my tools are starting to rust and all. Any fix? I go new doors and the drainage problem has been fixed. Its condensation. Thanks
Not real sure what you mean there old dog i don't think that will cure it.
The problem is high humidity condenses on cold surfaces it is the same as a cold beverage on a hot summer day it gets wet and drips.
The cure is to heat the garage (yes the ceiling insulation will help) with that or eliminate the high moisture. This time of year is bad because you have the cold ground and all the snow melt with spring rains so you have a lot of high humidity days with cold nights .
When the temps rise fast during the day steel,concrete,and the ground respond much slower and so they attract the moisture.
The problem is high humidity condenses on cold surfaces it is the same as a cold beverage on a hot summer day it gets wet and drips.
The cure is to heat the garage (yes the ceiling insulation will help) with that or eliminate the high moisture. This time of year is bad because you have the cold ground and all the snow melt with spring rains so you have a lot of high humidity days with cold nights .
When the temps rise fast during the day steel,concrete,and the ground respond much slower and so they attract the moisture.
Just for fun, lay a piece of heavy poly around 12"X12" on the concrete floor make sure that the edges and corners are held tight to the concrete.
Check 8 hrs later and see if there is any moisture trapped between the cement and the poly.
If there is, that means no vapor barrier was used in the construction of the floor, thus allowing moisture to out gas from under the slab itself.
In this situation maintaining a consistant temp with airflow will help.
On the other side if the walls and ceiling are not insulated including a vapor barrier installed (on the warm side of the room) Heating would be a waste of time, but airflow would certainly minimize the problem.
Check 8 hrs later and see if there is any moisture trapped between the cement and the poly.
If there is, that means no vapor barrier was used in the construction of the floor, thus allowing moisture to out gas from under the slab itself.
In this situation maintaining a consistant temp with airflow will help.
On the other side if the walls and ceiling are not insulated including a vapor barrier installed (on the warm side of the room) Heating would be a waste of time, but airflow would certainly minimize the problem.
Most guys that work on cars/trucks want a heated shop/garage if the winters are cold. What many miss in their choice and is just as important is a floor drain and sump. The floor must also be sloped so that the moisture can run to the sump drain. R20 in the walls and R40 in the ceiling is a must along with insulated steel doors. Mine has a 6 inch slope over 42 feet from the back door to the front where there is a trough that runs all the way across just inside the front doors, the trough itself is sloped to the sump in the middle. All snow that melts just runs under the vehicles down to the trough and I actually use an industrial carpet between the vehicles. The carpet sometimes gets wet from lots of snow but quickly dries and moisture is not a problem. I tried a sump drain in the center and the floor sloped 4 ways to it but you end up with all the dirt and slop from the melting snow between the vehicles.
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Hmm..
My Dad's shop has a vapor barrier on the floor, but in the summer the floor will be wet from moisture. Cold slab and high humidity will do it.
My Dad's shop has a vapor barrier on the floor, but in the summer the floor will be wet from moisture. Cold slab and high humidity will do it.
Just for fun, lay a piece of heavy poly around 12"X12" on the concrete floor make sure that the edges and corners are held tight to the concrete.
Check 8 hrs later and see if there is any moisture trapped between the cement and the poly.
If there is, that means no vapor barrier was used in the construction of the floor, thus allowing moisture to out gas from under the slab itself.
In this situation maintaining a consistant temp with airflow will help.
On the other side if the walls and ceiling are not insulated including a vapor barrier installed (on the warm side of the room) Heating would be a waste of time, but airflow would certainly minimize the problem.
Check 8 hrs later and see if there is any moisture trapped between the cement and the poly.
If there is, that means no vapor barrier was used in the construction of the floor, thus allowing moisture to out gas from under the slab itself.
In this situation maintaining a consistant temp with airflow will help.
On the other side if the walls and ceiling are not insulated including a vapor barrier installed (on the warm side of the room) Heating would be a waste of time, but airflow would certainly minimize the problem.
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