jj3500

I'd like to install the above in a basement. Supplement the heating.
The second barrel is suppose to emit a large amount of heat gas and then eventually pass it up through pipe.

Would you think pipe has to go all the way past the roof line?

I doubt any hot ambers would get past the second barrel heat exchanger.

Thoughts?

gorms

I think the piping should be above the roof line for drafting purposes mostly.

Bark

Bro in-law had one that he vented out the side wall about six feet up. Worked ok but when the wind blew just right he would get smoked out.
He than added more pipe and ran it up past his roof line (outside) but the pipe would get so cool that he had to clean the build up every year.

Justwannabeme

depending on where you are in New York ( I am in Livingston county)

to avoid a fine, check with the local code officer.

on that note, from a basement use think about any other buildings within 100 ft, it will affect draft, ash, blowback...

depending on whatever siding is there can reflect heat, possible damage.

use the stand offs that are 10 inch for vent pressure, low rain cap)about a two inch gap). you may be able to do a one story (ten foot) height if there are no trees around, or neighbors....be safe!

chaikwa

Every YEAR? I'd be happy with that! A woodstove stack should be cleaned at LEAST every year. I know people that have made it a habit to clean theirs every month and it's a good thing they do because the amount of creosote they get out of it is amazing. The more pipe you add, the more creosote you'll get, simply because the added pipe cools the smoke more and more for each additional section. And cooling smoke is what creates creosote. In my outdoor wood boiler, creosote is no problem. When it builds up it eventually creates a chimney fire and burns off. In a house installation the same thing will happen, but it isn't a good thing when it burns off in that instance!

patdaly

Others feel free to disagree, but for my home, no way those 55 gallon double barrel burners would be in it. They don't tend to last very long, and the last thing you want in your home is a thinwall firebox.

I know the kits are cheap, but in this case, you get what you pay for,.

Lary Ellis (Top)

What he said exactly...I have seen them burn through in no time

Andy505

I'm going to have to agree with this as well. I heat my home exclusively with wood and there is good reason why well built, long lasting wood burners are built with heavy gauge steel and the inside is lined well with firebrick.

Chrisreyn

There are a few guys here who are experts on fire science who could answer you in detail, but be aware that the reason for having your chimney higher Than the highest point of the roof isn't all about drafting.
When wood burns it also "gasses off" and while most times these gases burn, you need to be sure that what doesn't combust is freely vented to the atmosphere.
Pipes that vent under your eaves or anyplace that can potentially trap the exhaust gases from any combustion are a potential safety issue.
The slow build up if gases trapped in the attic by entering thru a soffit vent for example....
You might wanna talk to your local fire inspector or someone with experience in your area and get their take on it
I once responded to a incident where an attic fire started that way ...
Just a thought....

Bark

Good info from the fire guys regarding the stack.
Like others have said about the long term safety of the barrel steel, I wouldn't trust it.

Once a week we burn what can't be composted in a burn barrel. We have to replace the barrel every few years because it gets "eaten" away.
My Bro-in-laws feed door is loose because the bolt holes have corroded out a little so he will need to replace the bottom barrel sometime.

On the other hand he trusts it and it really does a good job of heating his first floor and some of his second.

j_martin

A chimney has to be warm, and open to free draft to work. I think the spec is the top needs to be 2 feet above any part of a roof that is within 10 feet of it. Trees, nearby buildings, etc. may dictate an even higher exit to counter the downdrafts that are created by wind going over the obstructions.

The other factor is that the chimney has to be warm to work. When you put a stove pipe up an outside wall, it will cool off and have both a poor draft and excessive creosote buildup. Well insulated chimney costs about $40 a foot, and even that should be surrounded by building, either the house itself, or an insulated housing. I have one on an old cook stove like that, and it works well once it's heated up.

Modern insulated stainless chimney (UL-103) is rated at 2100 degrees, and can withstand a chimney fire above an airtight stove without damage. If the fire has free draft, it can overpower the heat holding capacity of the chimney. Of course, there's still danger from the sparks and flames emitted from the chimney. Usually such a fire will occur when draft is excessive, such as on a cold windy night.

A double barrel stove works pretty good, but it still can send flammable gasses up the chimney, so the chimney requirements are the same as any other solid fuel appliance. They also need to be spaced at least 3 feet from anything flammable, including sheet rock. They get hot and radiate a lot of heat.

I have used them in the past, and in fact am planning one for the workshop as I write. I put a door in the top barrel, and cook various meats in the upper barrel, on a rack over a pan of water. With the right wood, like cherry or apple, the results are amazing. The stove usually lives about a year of constant use. The cast parts are re-usable, so you just make another stove. Burning one that is warped out of shape or thin is dangerous.
<edit - note added:> I have a 500 lb, 1/4 inch thick step stove that is burned through the sides. The difference is it took about 20 years to do it.

I also set it up outside, and build a fire in both barrels to burn the paint off, then brush off the resulting ash before I carry it inside to install.

One other item is that many men have been killed by putting a cutting torch to an empty oil barrel. Be sure they have plenty of venting so they can't contain and amplify an explosion before you go at them with a torch. A hole about a foot in diameter ripped into the head where you plan to put the door should be sufficient.

j_martin

As I noted above, the loose feed door will probably allow way too much draft if a chimney fire occurs. I wouldn't run it in that condition for that reason. I would warnabrother if I were you.

1STGENFARMBOY

My opinion is the pipe must be above the (peak) for best drafting

Bark

I did. He is an idiot, and actually he is now my ex-brother in-law (whew).

Have we talked you into getting a good wood stove for in house applications yet.
Save the barrel stove for that shop with the 14 foot ceiling you always wanted.

Justwannabeme

amen.

thanks for posting , it might help 20 other members or neighbors....


ya did good!!!!