Cheap brake shoes work better?
 

Hey guys, just wondering on something I've picked up while on this site. I'm going to do my rear brakes tomorrow, probably upgrade to GM cylinders and maybe replace the shoes. I am under the impression that the lifetime warranty shoes are too hard and don't grab, and the cheaper ones are soft enough to really grab. I don't mind replacing them more often if I get better performance out of them. What's your take on this, somewhere down the middle or are the cheaper ones really better...:confused:

I paid $56 for the carbon fiber front pads for my 95. Took them back two weeks later and got the $11 pads. The carbons eat up the rotors.

I think the cheap ones usually have a lower heat range. They would grip ok until they get overheated and glazed, then you're back where you started.

Use the harder shoes and get larger diameter cylinders to apply more pressure to get more braking. The harder lining, especially if it is a semi-metalic type will resist fading better.

Edwin

The standard is OEM for any type of brake lining after this it only how much the manufacturer spend to produce the lining there is no grading system ...... so by spending more or less for lining other then OEM grade your not in some cases gettin better lining just because it cost the manufacturer more to produce the lining

I found while working on Big Rigs that just because the manufacturer said it was a better grade of lining (cost more) then OEM in many cases it would wear faster then OEM which caused higher operating costs and in some applications it preformed poorly

To conclude buying lining other then OEM can just be a crap shoot weather it will preform better

The harder pads will wear your rotors and drums faster too. I'm getting ready to hit 160000 miles and I still have the original brakes all around and they're still over half.

I agree ... I would rather do a couple simple pad replacements due to softer material than have to replace the steel.

Just my .02
PISTOL

Geez!!!!!

I wish I was so lucky! I've gotten anywhere from 8k to 22k on the front pads alone and had to replace them!:mad:

I've recently switched to ceramic (spelling?) and have over 30k on them and they're still good - wished I had listened to my son and did this at the first breakjob!!

I did have to change the rotors only one time - but that was only cause I couldn't find a dealer close enough and the right front was pretty much torn up by the time I got to one - screw midas - they suck!

My rears were still good at 100k but they had started cracking and I went ahead and changed them - **** self adjusters have never worked right on any vehicle I've owned, I just back down the street for about a half block and hit the brakes to get them adjusted as needed..

Knew I should have gotten a stick instead of an auto! ARG!!

Matt, Just stick with the OEM type of shoes. I put the bigger cylinders in and left the shoes in place. At least now when you stop hard the truck does not "nosedive" but instead just kinda "squats" right down and stops great.
Tom

HOLY CRAP!
These cylinders are great! The shoes were just fine, they included used brakes on the used axle I got int the accident, but the cylinders were leaky. The shoes actually had dust on them so that'll clue you in on how much I had for rear brakes:rolleyes: Coming out of the garage I locked the brakes up on accident, that's how nice they are now! I have a pic in my gallery of a comparison between the two.

Yeah, those self or automatic adjusters are pretty much worthless. Mine was nose diving and didn't stop worth a crap. Got under there and took the right side up like 38 clicks and the left about 30. It just squats and comes to a real good stop now.