Broken manifold stud
 

As the title says I've got a broken manifold bolt. Exhaust manifold. It's on the head of a 273 mopar that goes in a 66 Dart that I'm restoring. While attempting to extract stud my eez out broke off. Needless to say this became a lot longer task than I had hoped but it's out now. So now I have a larger hole than I started with and this stud was on the end of the head and went into the water jacket. I don't think a helicoil is a good option. I'm thinking I should use one of these from fastenal but if anyone here has a better option I'd love to hear it!!
Thanks in Advance

Never tried one of those before, just helicoils; but I agree, it may be better for your application. Please let us know how it works out if that's the way you end up going.

Will do. Here is another option. more expensive but seems better. May all just be fluff!!

I usually have some used 12mm or 14mm head bolts to throw away. For problems like yours I just cut off the head of one and drill a hole trough the threaded section on a lathe. Then I tap the appropriate thread for the stud, and cut off the rest. Voila- Instant insert.
Naturally you will have to drill and tap the head for the new insert.
The advantage is that by going that big you are sure to be in good material on the head.

HTH

I thought about doing that and if I had a lathe I would be all over it!!

Similar to the method I used for decades. The difference is I used tapered pipe threads so it would wedge its self in there tight. I'd start with a piece of round stock, drill an undersized hole through the middle of it and pipe tap the outside. Drill up and tap the item to be repaired. Start the "plug" into the part then drive a spline into the plug to tighten it into place. Once set, drill the hole up in the plug to the appropriate tap size and tap it. Repaired.

We use the same thing in Jergens brand all the time, they work great, much better than any helicoil.

I like the idea of the timeserts, but not sure what size hole you would have to have, they look real thin.

If this ever happens again, just stick weld a nut to the broken stud and easyout, the weld won't stick to the cast and the heat helps when you put the twist to her.

It was broke off down in the hole. there was no way to get a nut close to it. I was taking my time trying to get it out but my son in law gave it a try. He wasn't as gentle and snapped it off on the first try.[duhhh]

You don't really need the lathe- just use the old stud hole as a pilot hole for the new bigger hole, tap, bolt in old head bolt, tighten, cut off and sand flat, use manifold to center punch, drill and tap for stud.
I usually give the "insert" one or two nice dents with the punch right at it's circumference to make the insert stay where it should while tightening and removing the stud in the future.

Lookup oxtoolco on you tube. It's a machine shop guy and he did a small series about removing the toughest broken bolts. Tom Lipton Cool guy.

Yea, in hindsight I should have done that and I would be done but I ordered the time sert. Guess I'll wait until it arrives and try that.

Ok, I have dealt with a LOT of broken bolts over the years.

Here's where a small MIG welder shines. This should be a 3/8" bolt. So you drill a small hole all the way through. Then, if it Is broken off recessed, you take your kit, and build it out with weld, to just above the surface. Collar it with a washer, then weld a nut to the weld you have already built.

Let the red go out of it, then hit it with deep creep, or your choice of inferior penetrating agent. Latch on with the appropriate box end wrench, and work it back an forth. It will come out.

Now. To repair a damaged hole like that. Use of a heli coil is fine, even if it goes to the water jacket. Just use a good thread sealant on it. Otherwise, tap the hole to the next size up, and simply drill out the hole in the manifold, go for the larger bolt shank. Easy like Sunday morning.

I probably have a few more tricks to do with rusted/seized parts,but that is another story.

Pind......
I don't do facebook, and I'm still looking for the "like" button.

I think I know, but why drill it through to start with?

If you mean why drill through into the water jacket in the first place it's because it was made that way. Each end of the head was identical so, before I drilled my pilot hole for the eez out I pulled the stud on the opposite end to see how deep I could drill without drilling into the head. With that stud out it's an open hole into the water jacket.

Let me try again. First step in Pind's procedure is to drill a hole all the way through, then weld on top of it (effectively plug welding the hole) to build up metal to the surface. Why the hole?