Backyard shed: pole barn or concrete block foundation?
Backyard shed: pole barn or concrete block foundation?
I'm very handy with tools. I do 95% of my own car/truck maintenance. And I've done a lot of projects around the house (plumbing, electrical, sheetrock, etc.). I'm going to be putting in a small (14x16 or so) shed in the backyard in the spring. I'm currently in the design phase, and I have a question I'm hoping to get a little feedback.
Should I go with pole barn type construction, or get it up off the ground with concrete blocks? What are the benefits of each?
It will be used to store lawn equipment, various tools, and a couple of ATVs.
As for local climate...winters here typically see lows in the teens at night, but it can get down below zero on occasion. Summers are 90-100 degrees, but the occasional 105+. It'll be build in an area adjacent to regularly irrigated lawn.
Should I go with pole barn type construction, or get it up off the ground with concrete blocks? What are the benefits of each?
It will be used to store lawn equipment, various tools, and a couple of ATVs.
As for local climate...winters here typically see lows in the teens at night, but it can get down below zero on occasion. Summers are 90-100 degrees, but the occasional 105+. It'll be build in an area adjacent to regularly irrigated lawn.
I'd do a pole barn and then pour a slab. Use drill stem for the poles, 6" I beam and 8" purlins. Mine is done this way and held up to 18' of snow.
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Block is nice and easy to set. Secure. bullet proof building material.
Pole style is easier to use after installation, ie wood and sheet metal, no conduit for running power etc.
I'm a mason and carpenter so I would go block to 8' then truss roof. Steel door with covered padlock device to secure.
Pole style is easier to use after installation, ie wood and sheet metal, no conduit for running power etc.
I'm a mason and carpenter so I would go block to 8' then truss roof. Steel door with covered padlock device to secure.
Do a search for SIPS (Structural Insulated Panels) there is a plant in southern Idaho that I have used. The walls / structure will come pre-engineered so building permits will be no problem. They go together quick and are cheep to heat.
from the pole barns Ive been in, they are one step above a tarp.
if its sealed off and kept dry inside, the floor will turn into 6 inches of powder. If its not kept dry inside, well, you're back to working in the rocks and mud.
I would do the pole barn and pour a slab or atleast a 1/2 slab if its big enough.
if its sealed off and kept dry inside, the floor will turn into 6 inches of powder. If its not kept dry inside, well, you're back to working in the rocks and mud.
I would do the pole barn and pour a slab or atleast a 1/2 slab if its big enough.
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From: Kenai Alaska
Around here we just use an old school bus. Roll it over on its roof and you are done. Blends in with the rest of the house too.
Glad to help.
Glad to help.
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If you use block you need a footing around the complete perimeter to support the block.......as suggested, I would go with pipe columns and metal purlins. You only need spot footings to fasten the columns to, then pour a slab with a small perimeter turn down.
Doubt you could kludge a 2 car garage together out of used stuff for that budget.
Not saying it isn't possible, just better keep saving.
One thing I didn't think of in a four season climate is that when there is a big temp and humidity swing a concrete floor condenses ALOT of water out of the air. I've had to squeege a quarter inch of standing water out of my building in the spring.
If you're looking for low budget and fast to put up you might take a look at Steelmaster or one of their competitors. I've put a couple of these up and you can't get the square footage and overhead hight any cheaper. Skip the prefabed ends and make your own and it's an even better deal.
If you're looking for low budget and fast to put up you might take a look at Steelmaster or one of their competitors. I've put a couple of these up and you can't get the square footage and overhead hight any cheaper. Skip the prefabed ends and make your own and it's an even better deal.
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From: Wyoming
Pole Barn.
8' spacing between poles - 4x6 in field, 6x6 corners. Drill a hole in the bottom of your Poles and put a 5/8" x 24" piece of rebar through it, pour concrete footer 12". Fill remainder of hole with dirt. Place a bottom girt around the perimeter to provide skim ledger for future concrete floor. 2x6 girts 4' OC. Make your trusses out of 2x4 with 2x6 rafter and OSB gussets, 2x4 purlins 2' OC with steel roof. OSB exterior with siding of your choice. You can use color matched exterior stain on the OSB as a time saver till you can save up for the siding. Frame oversize openings for windows but side over them, when you have enough to get your windows, adjust opening size to fit and install.
8' spacing between poles - 4x6 in field, 6x6 corners. Drill a hole in the bottom of your Poles and put a 5/8" x 24" piece of rebar through it, pour concrete footer 12". Fill remainder of hole with dirt. Place a bottom girt around the perimeter to provide skim ledger for future concrete floor. 2x6 girts 4' OC. Make your trusses out of 2x4 with 2x6 rafter and OSB gussets, 2x4 purlins 2' OC with steel roof. OSB exterior with siding of your choice. You can use color matched exterior stain on the OSB as a time saver till you can save up for the siding. Frame oversize openings for windows but side over them, when you have enough to get your windows, adjust opening size to fit and install.






