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5.5 Sears HP Compressor problems.

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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 07:00 PM
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Angry 5.5 Sears HP Compressor problems.

I have a Sears compressor system with a 25 gallon tank that has started popping the 20 amp breaker in the house. It seems like it doesn't want to start and takes a couple of seconds before it starts when I reset the breaker.

Has anyone had experience with these? The 5.5 HP figure is bogus because it's well... Sears HP but otherwise it runs well. I'm afraid the motor may be going south.

Edwin
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 07:05 PM
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That 5.5 HP is the starting HP of the motor , as far as why it is flipping the breaker , i'm gonna guess the motor is about to die , and is drawing alot of amps.

Our stick welder is heading south , at full amperage , it should only pull 35 amps or so , and it is flipping the 70 amp breaker in the house , the one that usually runs the entire shop.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 07:10 PM
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Anybody know of a good compressor I can replace it with? It would be nice to have it recover more quickly. Right now it can't keep up with the DA sander I'm using on the truck.

Edwin
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 07:12 PM
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just replace the motor with a Baldor 220 volt 5.5 hp motor and you will never look back.

Since its a single phase motor, you might try changing out your start capacitor and run capacitor on the motor before you replace the motor and compressor.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 07:22 PM
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Unfortunately it's cheap built with the compressor part made on the end of the motor. Replace one, replace both. I'll take the caps down and have them checked on Monday.

Thanks

Edwin
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 07:23 PM
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Under that large bulb on top is the start capacitor. just about any industrial electric shop can get you one and Sears might be able to order you a replacement.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 07:26 PM
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If the compressors good, I would change the motor.
I have a craftsman 5hp 25 gal for almost 20 years. I changed the motor about 8 years ago. Compressor still works great.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 07:30 PM
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I was typing while you were posting. I see you have a cheap one.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 07:32 PM
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electric motors do go bad, usually they will get really hot (+160F) in the process. Usually however, the start capacitor dries out and doesn't do its job when you apply power. There might also be a run capacitor that helps keep the voltage and current in proper phase with each other. if these get out of phase, it can cause your pwer meter to read inaccurately.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Fronty Owner

Under that large bulb on top is the start capacitor. just about any industrial electric shop can get you one and Sears might be able to order you a replacement.
Yep that's what I was going to say. It's probably the starting capacitor. Someone beat me to it. Smart guy.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 07:37 PM
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Anybody know of a good compressor I can replace it with?


I would check into taking it and having it rebuilt, I had a pool motor rebuilt for alot less than a new one. Just my .02
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Fronty Owner
electric motors do go bad, usually they will get really hot (+160F) in the process. Usually however, the start capacitor dries out and doesn't do its job when you apply power. There might also be a run capacitor that helps keep the voltage and current in proper phase with each other. if these get out of phase, it can cause your pwer meter to read inaccurately.
It has 2 caps. I remember from when I had it apart fixing the broken end piece when it got damaged in shipment.

The other day, I noticed it was leaking air out of the "relief tube". I didn't see any good reason fo this tube so I plugged it off. Could this be the cause of hard starting? What's the purpose of this tube which runs from the input of the tank over to the side of the pressure switch. It still cycles properly so there isn't any need for this tube AFAIK.

Edwin
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by edwinsmith
It has 2 caps. I remember from when I had it apart fixing the broken end piece when it got damaged in shipment.

The other day, I noticed it was leaking air out of the "relief tube". I didn't see any good reason fo this tube so I plugged it off. Could this be the cause of hard starting? What's the purpose of this tube which runs from the input of the tank over to the side of the pressure switch. It still cycles properly so there isn't any need for this tube AFAIK.


Edwin
I had to replace mine to, went out one night and it was blowing air out of the pressure switch,if I remember right I believe there is some type of valve on the end tat goes into the tank. I had the same start symptoms until I replaced the valve.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 07:46 PM
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my buddy has the same one as you have, it was doing the same, I had looked at it it was wired for 120,ac, i rewired it for 220 ac , that was more that a year ago and running great still
jman
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ftltmp
I had to replace mine to, went out one night and it was blowing air out of the pressure switch,if I remember right I believe there is some type of valve on the end tat goes into the tank. I had the same start symptoms until I replaced the valve.
So I need to get a new valve or a new switch? I don't remember if it leaked air out of the side of the switch when I got it or not. When it shuts off the air comes out of the side of the switch for a few seconds. Is that normal?

This job has been a real PITA. First I had to replace the pad on the DA because the $20 DA was poor quality (Chinese) Then I had to replace a bearing in it and then found out it needed a washer so the screw would tighten down to keep the pad from wobbling. Got that fixed and now the compressor is on the fritz!

That's what I get for trying to do things cheap. The durn clearcoat on the hood is so thick I can't get through it so I'm thinking I'll go get a big can of stripper and go to town!

Sorry for hijacking my own thread.

Edwin
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