Well I've seen a slight leak and it's not really bad but I just want to know what all is involved. I know I'll have to lift the engine a little and probably remove # 6 valve over. What else? Tranny? Thanks for the help in advance

 

should be able to get it off with lifting the engine and lifting it to the point just before the valve springs/rocker pedestal makes contact with the fire wall.

I'd try torquing down the bolts first and cleaning the area up. They can loosen from teh vibration of the motor. I know mine were pretty loose. It didn't stop the leak but my gasket is 20 years old and the motors got about 280k miles on it. I'm not saying it'll work, but it's worth a try. It is free after all

 

Were it me, and snugging the bolts didn't stop the leak, I would loosen all the bolts and let the pan drop a bit.

Then, I would trowel in a bead of Permatex non-hardening sealer/gasket-maker #2 all around the perimeter.

Carefully, in a criss-cross manner, snug the bolts back up.

An old leaky gasket with a coating of Permatex #2 (by the way, that stuff used to be Mr Gasket long before it was Permatex) should be good as new.

If this don't work, all you are out is a bit of work and a tube of sealer.

Those pan-bolts are small; don't get carried away with the wrench.

 

I think this is a great idea....not that I know anything, but I believe I'll give it a try....nothing ventured, nothing gained!

Tony

 

I doubt you will get a good seal using the gasket sealer method due to the fact that the oil will not let it setup properly.

 

That might be true with some silicone-type sealants; BUT, Gasket Maker #2 is an ENTIRELY different animal --- it does NOT "setup" --- hence the non-hardening.



I have been liberally smearing #2 on such oil-soaked old gaskets as injection-pump gaskets, lift-pump gaskets, oil-pan gaskets, you name it, and I have yet to ever have the slightest drip.


I don't mean for this to come off as an advertisement, but this stuff works and has been working for years.


Another BIG plus is that any gasket that has had a coating of #2 smeared on both sides prior to installation will slide right loose UN-DAMAGED 30-years later and be re-usable, with NO dreaded gasket scraping involved.


Don't knock it until you have been using it for 40-years or so.

 

Thanks guys, I'll check the bolts and if that doesn't work BK's idea is great and I think will work. Might take me a couple of days to do it but I'll let y'all k ow if that does it

 

Great Idea I have been needing to do this for quite sometime as well. but I did not want to undo the motor. Bk do you try an clean it up any or do you just drop it and put the sealer in there? Thanks

 

Wow, learn something new everyday. Thanks for the info, got drips.

 

The odd thing about it, was just under the truck yesterday to see if I could do anything about some drips.

Ended up using a metric socket on the pan bolts, as it fit the best.

If the pan is dropped and the gasket splits, half sticking to the block, half sticking to the pan, and tearing up - then anticipate lifting the motor and doing it the hard way.

Getting sealer into the flange at back of the pan will be the hard part.

Might try putting some sealer in the bolt holes first, as that is where my pan appears to be leaking. And using some thin flat washers to distribute the pressure better on the pan flange.

Anyone know what the pan bolts are supposed to be torqued to? Near as I could glean from the Chiltons, 17 ft pnds? Maybe inch, have to try to read it again. That Chiltons is a lesson in frustration...

Anyone recall the torque #'s for the pan bolts?

 

Of course drain the oil.

I would maybe power-wash everything under there BEFORE draining the oil.

I would not try cleaning as you will either damage the old gasket or possibly leave cleaner residue that might be detrimental to the #2 sealer.


If the old gasket breaks or tears a bit, just put the gasket back together and be a bit more generous with the sealer in that area.

The sealer will squish into any splits or tears.


If anyone spends a day or two getting this accomplished and it does not cure the leak, please don't tar and feather me.

 

I would just do it the right way, lift the motor out and get a new gasket. If you apply to much gasket maker it can clog inlet screen for the pump up

 

We've got The Chair in Texas

Seriously though, I think it's great info and worth a try. I talked to PO and he has changed the gasket in the past 2 to 3 years with a quality Cummuns gasket so I'm hoping it's just some loose bolts.

Are the bolts long enough to let the pan suspend and inch or two for enough room to apply the gasket maker or drop it completely?

Thanks again to every one and BK I could read your post all day

 

You guys sure the pan is leaking and not the Valve covers running down? Or rear main, or tappet cover gasket. I know every engine is different but all of my engine's over the years the oil pan was the only one that was not a leak.....Well except that time I hit a fire hydrant and.....Well it was a mess.

 

Yeah That dang tappet cover is a real culprit on a lot of engines!