JKM

I have been helping a friend put some more lift on his Jeep XJ

He broke all but the main leaf in the driver side rear leaf pack , we got some newer springs , and added a couple leafs to each of them for some more lift ( we want to clear 35's) the jeep origionally had a 4" lift , or so we were told by the previous owner, and we figure the new leaf packs lifted the rear another 5" if not a little more , and now the driveshaft is binding , the yokes are hitting together where it comes out of the T case. Is there a cheap fix for this? The T case mount has already been dropped an inch with a spacer...

We were thinking of going with a double U joint setup like is on the front driveshaft , is there a better way?

JPR Ram

On the cheap, that might work. To do it right, do a slipyoke conversion. There're pretty simple to do. Not to sure who makes it, but there is a cheap conversion that uses the stock tail shaft, you cut it down and drill and tap for the bolt on yoke. I think it's eithe Tom Woods Driveshaft or maybe Rubicon Express.....Personally, I'd just tear the whole thing out and replace the shaft al together.......

vzdude

Yes ^ Slip yoke eliminator and a transfer case drop. You can use about anything to make a spacer for the skid plate that the transfer case bolts to. I used some 1/2 black pipe in a pinch on a Sunday for mine. Then made some solid steel blocks for it.

JKM

How much are we looking at for a slip yoke eliminator kit? He doesn't really have a whole lot of money to spend , that's why we were thinking about the double u joint setup.

The T case has already been dropped an inch , how much more can we go?

vzdude

I think we went 3 inches, but had to modify the fan shroud so the fan wouldn't hit. It has been a while though....

I did have to replace the motor mounts not too long after that too, we were trying to decide if the angle accellerated the wear or not. Never did know for sure, sold it about 8 months after that!

JKM

3 Inches , and a higher clearance slip yoke should get us enough clearance for now, If we can find a cheap slip yoke eliminator , than I can make a drive shaft , I have a few double U joint driveshafts here ( the CV type), I may even try the CV and leave the slip yoke on , just to see what happens , we need to do this on the cheap.

chromegrill

2 different types of slip yoke eliminators, one you replace the main shaft with a stronger one, the other, availible from Currie, is a hack and tap style (cheap). You can use a TJ or XJ fornt shaft for the rear, just have it cut down for about $50...

I don't know that I would drop the t-case more than 2 inches, you lose all that you gain with bigger tires by dropping the case.

Gotlift01

Leave the Tcase where it is at...you start dropping it more and you will run into issues.....like once your motor mounts bust it'll slam the motor into the hood and crease it....seen that happen before! Plus you loose a lot of ground clearance.

A slip yoke elminator kit is around $240-$270 and that is what I would recommend. I got mine from Advanced Adapters. It does require a different drive shaft.....but the cool part is that if you can find another front drive shaft......that one will work for the rear (same style shaft). You "MIGHT" have to have it extended a bit, but only being 5" of lift I doubt it.


~Nick

JKM

Nick , which style of SYE do i need , there is one on rubicon express which appears to do away with the U joint yoke and leave a flat flange , this one:

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Produc...=434DFB2264436



And then there are some other styles with use a new different style U joint yoke, like this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...spagenameZWDVW

Which style do i need to use a stock front shaft on the back? I can pick up another stock front shaft for free from his neighbour.

chromegrill

To use a stock spicer stlye double cardon joint like the front end uses, you need the heavy duty kit (includes a new main shaft), which is your ebay link. The rubicon express link is the hack and tap kit. You have to split the case to install the new main shaft, just make sure you get the pickup tube back on the pump when you put it back together...

Shady TJ

Spend the cash for the SYE and do it right. The life of the driveshaft, u-joints and even transfer case will pay itself back in time. Plus the slip yoke is a weak link.

Gotlift01

Sorry man I forgot that I replied to this thread Anywhooo I got one similar to the one on your ebay link. It has a new shaft, and the other pieces and parts. The hack and tap style from Rubicon works from what i"ve been told, but it's not near as good as the full kit!


~Nick

JKM

I'm going to have alot more lift questions really soon , i bought a 1994 Jeep cherokee country edition today , it's really nice , wood grain dash , AC , power everything , 4L HO , but TOTALLY STOCK lift wise , going to have to remedy that right away I bought it for a winter vehicle (I feel bad making my CTD start up at -30 to drive 10 mins to work) and just somethingto generally abuse off road. I couldn't refuse when the guy said he would take 600$ for it ( to keep his new ex wife from taking it )