Still no Start- at a complete loss
 

My 06 5.9 still has no start issue. This started with a rough idle after pumping fuel from a transfer tank and a no start the following morning. Trailered the truck to a local diesel shop with limited Cummins experience thinking it had to be something small. Below is what we have tried to date from research from this forum and based off of mechanics experience. ANYONE with additional thoughts or something else to consider is greatly appreciated.

1. Replaced fuel filter 2x
2. No major electrical or engine codes
3. Lift pumps ok
4. Rail pressure at spinning @ 5200 psi
5. Injector isolation test with Miller tools and still no start after isolating each injector
6. Performed bypass test and collected less than 40 ml after 4-6 spins

I'm finding it very hard to find another shop to consider if this one does not work out without taking to dealer which I have not heard good things about (throw parts at it). Anyone know any good shops or mechanics close to Savannah, Ga. area. THANKS

Have you considered that just maybe the fact that the problem started after filling up could be a red herring - a coincidence?
What if somehow the timing slipped?

Have you checked all your fuses? ECM fuse? Power cable to module, are the connections good? Grounds?

I know this isn't much help but I always go back to basics.

Compression + Fuel + Ignition (as applicable on most engines) = Running

I don't own one of the newer tucks, but it seems to me that you have these all isloated and tested? Hope you find something soon. Good Luck!

No
"major" Electrical or engine codes.

Does this mean it has no codes, or none that you feel are worthy of mention?

Since you have been through the basics, check your cam position sensor. it should be reading when the engine is cranking, if not, then that might just be your problem.

Cranking speed. 300 rpm minimum.
Voltage. ECM wants to see more than 10.5 while cranking, the more the merrier.
Since you are seeing rail pressure while cranking, the CP3, and associated fuel system parts appear to be doing their jobs.

Check those basics, and keep us informed.

Just wondering if you are out of warranty? If it was me, and I still had warranty on it, I'd take it to the *********** and let 'em throw parts at it.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I will check all the recommendations above and follow up with a status report. This is driving me absolutely crazy and I have to get this thing back on the road. Unfortunately i'm out of warranty with 110k on the truck.

Just talked to the mechanic this morning. Below are his responses to the comments and recommendations you all provided. I have asked him for a list of codes as well. He is going to double check the list below again this am.

1. CPS was checked and he verified speed of close to 300 rpm when cranking
2. No fuse problems- ECM fuse ok, power cable to module ok, checked grounds
3. Voltage was above 10.5 when cranking

Thanks in advance for any other info or advise. Very frustrated!

I would verify the fuel from the transfer tank was fit enough to be put in your truck. Pull a sample and have it checked.

Agreed. Seems like everything else is present to run. There have been many a case where "fuel" wasn't...

I agree. You must have bad fuel.

Any update?

Went by the shop earlier today. Personally saw where the mechanic had disconnected the line coming from the tank and had an auxillary pump taking fresh fuel from a container to the filter canister and still nothing. He had reset all the codes so I asked to watch while he read for any codes since reset and no codes were reported by the reader while I was there. The scanner was made by Genisys if that makes any difference. He also said he was getting closer to 200 rpm while cranking instead of the recommended 300 rpm in previous posts. He didn't think it could get to 300 rpm as he quoted "its spinning plenty." This guy seems to be very knowledgable and is stumped. His next recommendation is to pull the injectors and have tested at a shop called Testmasters who want $40 per injector to test both mechanical and electrical. Anyone agree with this next step??

a local member here just had a 04 no start. turned out to be a dead cp3


copy paste
2 tests you need to do when diagnosing a no start on a commonrail.

1. test flow from the IP supply line to the commonrail while cranking (10 sec intervals). You have to slide a hose over the banjo fitting to get it directed into a container. You should get 70ml in 30 seconds. If you don't proceed with step 2

2. Remove low pressure fuel supply line from IP (CP3), bump the engine over which will cause the lift pump to run for 25 seconds, you should get 1.8l from this line in 30 seconds. If you do suspect FCA or internal IP problem.

If you do get the 70ml from the IP you know low pressure supply is good and there is no need to test it.
You also should remove the return line from the rail and slide clear hose between it and the regulator, You should not be getting fuel unless rail pressure is very high, the FCA job is to control pressure the regulator just limits it.

Now if everything checks out chances are you have a faulty injector (S) or contaminated supply tubes. Since all injectors run in the same conditions (fuel supply, pressure and oils are identical) one can assume if one is worn out the others can't be to far behind. I change all 6 when I get a no start. I also check for contamination on the supply tubes and injector body's. If any rust is noted drop the tank remove the lift pump, clean out the tank, put in known good fuel remove and clean all the lines, drain the filter housing and install new fuel filter. (not in that order, use common sense here to avoid contaminating clean lines). I also reccommend an upgraded filtration system on the fuel side as the dodge system is inadequate.