Starting Problems...I Gotta Ask...
 

Alright, I know, I know, this has been posted before but none of the symptoms posted in the other postings match what questions I have about this little problem I am having. This is also my first experience with Cummins seen as how I have been born and raised a Stroker fan and have actually owned two, although I decided to switch for more reasons than I care to mention. Unfortunately, as previously stated, I am having problems.

Let me begin: I went out yesterday morning to fire her up in the 35 degree weather we were having and when I got in, pressed in the clutch, let her go through the startup sequence, waited for the wait to start light to go out, turned the key, she rolled over her engine one turn and stopped moving, so I decided to try and reset the start sequence. Now, I did figure this was normal, because she was always slow to crank, so just waiting for the light to go out and trying to turn it again sounded logical. I tried it again, and tried to crank it, it turned over maybe half a turn, before it stopped. At this point, I got curious and popped the hood. Low and behold my surprise, I ran the part numbers on the battery after seeing that they were 700 cca a piece, knowing that the Stroker I drove never would have started with batteries that low, and when I ran the numbers, I discovered they were the wrong ones. OK, so I waited a little bit, and after some debate and watching the temperature rise on the outside, I decided to try and start it one more time. This time after all the dash-board lights went out and the wait to start light was on, it flashed three times before going out. I tried to roll it and all I could hear was a rapid clicking sound coming from the passenger side of the cabin. So I popped the hood once more and measured the voltage of the two batteries. I got 12.20 on one and 12.18 on the other. OK, so I locked it up and had to give up, because I was going to miss my trip to the airport.

Now for the questions:

1. I know I need to change out the batteries (Heck, they were 27 7YRs instead of 78 7YRs), so that is a known one, but is that clicking sounded associated with a low amperage in the batteries or is it related to the starter?

2. When my truck does start, about three times prior to this because I bought it used, it goes through a period of 190 seconds, where the engine seems to bog down every few seconds, and then go back to normal RPM, in cyclic form. Is it normal for this to happen, the engine to drop about 50 RPM during that warm-up cycle?

3. What is the normal operating range of the voltmeter on these trucks? Mine is running a little above the half-way mark after it gets through that 190 second cycle of the manifold heaters.

4. I think that the batteries are the wrong ones, I think the starter finally went at the same time that the batteries did and I think the alternator is toast or there may be a ground somewhere that is slowly draining the batteries. Am I close, do you need more info, or is there something I am missing?

Sorry about the story guys, I just didn't want you guys to be stabbing in the dark, any help would be appreciated. Thank-you.

Welcome to the site. :cool:

Sounds like your batteries are toast.
(The clicking is the starter solenoid rapidly cycling due to the dead/low voltage batteries)

The voltmeter cycling, idle going up and down on cool weather starts is due to the Grid Heaters that we use vs the glow plugs that you're used to while driving Brand "F". [laugh]
more info here.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=120532

Before you condemn anything, clean all the battery terminals. Get it started (tow or jump ) and check the voltage ( under the hood ) after a few minutes (30 ) that should let it stabilize. If the voltage is 13.6 to 14 V. the alternator is good. At this point you should consider getting it checked by someone rather than replacing things. The batteries can be checked at Autozone or some other parts store.
Mike

First off....fill out your sig so we know what you are driving.

Second the battery in most 2nd and 3rd gen trucks are 65 series. Not 27 or 78.

If clicking might just need to rebuild starter solonoid see link https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=141395 If he has 2 batteries and all is stock it 2nd gen and up.2 700cca batteries will work for while, but you can never go to big. if you been cranking engine with weak batteries current will go way up voltage goes down current goes up and starters get fried easily.just look under truck wipe of starter from external oiling system. if it's browning showing heat related suffering along with oiling residue.gonna need to replace and check charging and batteries.But as always start with 1st thing first.

Don't forget the grid heaters take a lot of current to operate. They can pull a margina battery down so the motor will not turn over fast enough to start. If the batteries are even marginal at freezing temp you are on the edge. Make sure the connections are very clean and good.. Make sure the ground is good and the terminal on the starter is good.

You need more battery. Auto zone has way bigger than yours for about $80 each out the door.

[coffee]