Batteries up,replaced relay on firewall,removed starter and bench tested ...passed,checked batt connections,replaced ignition switch,
STILL NO CRANK or Start.
If I remove the small wire on the starter,and hook up a remote starter button,it will crank,but not start until I reach over and pull up on the fuel shut off solenoid. Then the engine will start.
If I hook everything back up factory,the fuel shut off solenoid will activate just fine on it's own but the motor will not crank over...
I even swapped the relays around in the underhood fusebox and still no differece.
There must be someone out there who knows what the problem is.......
What should I do???

 

Is it possible the switch on the clutch is bad so even when you depress the clutch it doesn't allow the engine to crank? On mine the switch is up near the firewall and if you don't press in the clutch it will do everything but crank.

Switch on mine is by the clutch hinge near the firewall...I think...it has been a while sine I looked up in there.

 

It was one of the first things I checked... I would keep the key in the crank position and work the clutch, and I could hear the clicking telling me the clutch switch was breaking and reconnecting the circuit.. I figured since I could hear the clicking every time I worked the clutch, the clutch switch was OK.....
Is it possible even though I hear the contacts working that the clutch switch may still be bad??

 

Look for blown fuse in engine compartment fuse panel for starter relay.

 

done that..
I even swapped the relays around

 

the fact that a switch is clicking means nothing in regards to it's functionality

 

The clicking means nothing.
Just follow the clicking sound to the switch, disconnect it and jump across the leads.

 

will do this tomorrow.
I hope this does it!
Thanks

 

Dagnabbitt....
I went out there and tried the bypass....
The truck still does nothing.
What's next??

 

Check this out.

http://startercontacts.com/relay.htm

It's a kit to supply current for the starter solenoid (I believe the wire you disconnected) directly from the battery using the ign switch to trigger the relay in this kit which connects 12v to the starter.

It sound like you need to trace the wire at the starter that you disconnected. It must not be getting 12v, not getting enough current or is shorted. Also look at this starter schematic:

http://www.fostertruck.com/images/st...it_diagram.jpg

Notice the note on the schematic. It says on 98 Rams there is a fuse instead of a fusible link for the fuel solenoid circuit. The fuse is labelled "Spare". This fuse would cause the fuel solenoid not to "Pull" causing a nostart and you could manually pull the solenoid to start.

 

I have a 97 5spd 3500. The following schematic description is from my 97 factory service manual. 12V is supplied from the PDC fuses (Fuse #2 & 3 40AMP) to the ign switch. When Ign switch is in START pos it supplies 12v to the Clutch pedal switch input on a Dark Blue/Yellow wire.

When the Clutch pedal is depressed it supplies 12v on a Yellow/Red wire to the Starter Relay solenoid in the PDC. The Starter Relay in PDC requires a GND on pin #85 on its Black/White wire to allow the Starter Relay solenoid in PDC to be energized.

Once the Starter Relay solenoid in PDC is energized it connects 12v on the Starter Relay input located on pin #30 (supplied by fuse #2...40 amps in PDC) to the Starter Relay pin #87 in PDC. This 12v is output on a Brown wire to the Starter motor solenoid at the starter.

I would check for 12v (when ign sw in in start pos) at the starter solenoid and if its missing check for 12v at the input side of the clutch switch (with ign switch in start pos) and then check output side of Clutch switch when it is depressed. You should have 12v out of that switch.

The only thing left is wiring in-between the clutch switch and Starter Relay in PDC on a Yellow/Red wire. Then the 12v to energize the starter motor solenoid leaves the Starter Relay in PDC on a Brown wire. The Brown wires goes to 2 places. The Brown wire goes directly to the starter solenoid and also to the Fuel Shutdown Relay on firewall.

That Brown wire splits of in a splice and goes to the Fuel Shutdown Solenoid RELAY located on the firewall. This 12v on the Brown wire is used to energize the Fuel Shutdown Relay on the firewall and also the starter motor solenoid.

If your Clutch switch is working and sending 12v to the Starter Relay in the PDC then (if the relay is good) it will send 12v on the Brown wire to both the starter motor solenoid in the starter and the Fuel Shutdown Relay on the firewall.

Disconnect the Brown wire at the starter (this should be the 12v to energize the starter solenoid) and verify the brown wire has 12v when ign switch is in Start position. You may have a shorted or open circuit on the Brown wire or a bad Starter Relay in PDC or bad wiring.

Dave

 

I actually suspected this wire and ran a bypass wire parallel to it from where it unplugs near the battery down to the starter.It made no difference.
I will test it the way you suggested (tomorrow)
I'll keep you guys posted...
Thanks

 

Ok...
The diagram is interesting
I did replace the relay (Fuel shutdown) earlier.
The fuseible link marked "spare "...OK where is this fuse located?
In the doorjamb side of the dash or under the hood?
I may purchase this kit if the testing goes south tomorrow.
wow...learning a bunch tonite!
Thanks

 

I rewrote my first post so please read it again. I realized the Clutch switch goes first to a Starter Relay in the PDC and then to the Starter and Fuel Shutdown Relay on the firewall.

Your quoted me before I rewrote my post with the Starter Relay in PDC description.

Sorry for the confusion. So, the 12v goes from the Clutch Switch to energize the Starter Relay in PDC. Then a seperate 12v is switched by the Starter relay in PDC (using Fuse #2 in PDV for 12v) and that 12v is sent out on the Brown wire to the starter solenoid and also the Fuel Shutdown Relay on PDC.

NOTE: The fusible link is on my 97 coming directly off the battery post but for your 98 it is NOT a fusible link but is replaced by using a fuse marked SPARE in the fuse panel under the Dash I believe. You do not have the fusible link. If you do it is a blue wire coming off the drivers side battery,

 

OK.. I am kinda confused... look at the wording on your last post.... you mis-spelled a couple of key words..
What I have gathered so far is to test the voltages at the clutch switch,and check the "spare" fuse in the doorjamb......