I have a 2005 DRW 3500. I have an obviously cracked rotor on drivers side as I can feel the pulsation and it has a crack that I can feel across the rotor.

Do I have to remove the axle to remove the rotor or does it simply slip off? This is my first brake job on this truck since I had it.

I have it on the jack and cant get the dang blasted rotor loose.

Thanks Steve

 

Should just slide off. You may have to retract the parking brake shoes though.

 

On the 2005 you will need a new seal. You have to pull the axle and the hub. Then you have access to the bolts that hold the rotor on inside the parking brake drum. Once you remove those bolts it comes right off the back. Been there done that on my 2005 and my 2006 3500's. Oh yes one of the tires make a good vice for holding your hub while removing it as well. Seal is about 35 at the dealership unless your getting a discount. But if you replace one you at least need to run the other one or it will pull to that side for awhile.

Mark

 

Thanks for the reply guys, Im at work at the station and we got back there and figured it out. I did not have the seal and the other was intact so I got it back together.

Of course one of the bolts broke off that holds the rotor to the hub. Tried to use an ease out but did not have any luck, since I guessed the Bolt is an OEM one I gave up and put it back together as is. I also have a caliper that is leaking a bit or at least looking that way due to the grease that was on the inside shoe. The guy who had this before me ran into something cause the fender has been repainted and the rotor had a broken spot on it. Near the crack.

I just got back from a 1500 Mile trip as it was and am leaving again on thursday for another thousand miler, I hope that it will hold with 7 bolts and a leaky caliper for this trip.

Ill order the parts and hopefully everything will be here and I can do the complete brake job then.

The entire reason I tore into it was cause I felt the pulse of the cracked rotor.

Sorry for the ramble, a newbie here and learning as I Go, Thanks again for all the help.

Steve

 

If you didn’t replace that unitized seal then keep a close eye on it. They normally leak after you pull them off. Most of the time I've seen then pull apart as the inner part doesn't rotate on the housing and sticks to it when you pull the hub. I always figured a 25 to 35 buck seal is much cheaper than a $4000 bill at the dealer for a new housing installed. That’s what the last one was about when it went out on my driver in L.A. Also I hope your using 75/140 full synthetic gear oil. A lube shop in Phoenix Az. put 80/90 on top of the full synthetic is the reason the rearend went out.

Mark

 

Well Crap, I had my wife pick up some lube and guess what..... THey gave her the Regular Gear Oil. SO I got 1 qt mixed in with Synthetic.

I would like to wait till tuesday when my Seals and all are in to change it. I drove about 40 miles today pulling my 18 ft bass boat and I need to go about 60 Miles tommorrow to haul a trailer load of scrap to the recycler.

What time frame would I be looking at to do damage with the mixed diff lube? I bet this is a common mistake that is made all the time.

Give me your thoughts? What time frame before the oils will begin to break down?

Steve