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nv4500 removal steps?

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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 04:21 PM
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nv4500 removal steps?

Can anyone tell me step by step how to remove my nv4500 tranny? I'm taking it out to have a guy in Upton, KY rebuild it. Money's really tight now with a baby on the way. Any advice greatly appreciated.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 05:06 PM
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It's pretty straght foward on that, just heavy. you have to take out the shifter console first. your best bet would be go to your local partstore and look at the photos in a chiltons, to see what your getting in to. I wouldn't advise trying to take it out without at least a good flat place to work and a good floor jack. it and the transfer case will go about 200-250 # I droped dad's the other day in about 2.5 hours, but I had it on the lift and all the air tools. good luck
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 05:58 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I have a haynes manual(didn't think chiltons made a manual for our trucks). I do have a garage to work on it, and a large craftsman floor jack with a tranny adapter for it. I have dropped both driveshafts, dropped transfer case, and removed rear tranny cover before to tighten 5th gear nut. I'm just not sure of what steps to do after that. Thanks again for replying.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 08:09 PM
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It's pretty straightforward after that. You just have to remove the shifter assemby (4 bolts) from the top cover of the trans, remove wiring harness from clips on top of trans. I believe there are four places that the wire is clipped to. Then you support the transmission with the jack while you remove the transmission mount. After the mount is out of the way, you can remove the crossmember. It is kind of a wedge fit and will not drop straight out the bottom. You will actually have to push it upwards and slide it towards the back of the truck until it reaches a couple of relief holes in the truck frame. You can then drop it out of the way. Next remove the clutch slave cylinder and move it out of the way. You do not have to dissconnect the hydraullics.

You then remove the four bolts holding the transmission to the bellhousing and simply slide the transmission out of the bellhousing. When the input shaft is clear of the throwout bearing, you can start lowering the trans. Just be careful, the thing weighs a couple of hundred pounds.

Joe
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 07:25 AM
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Thanks for the reply, that's a HUGE help! What do you guys think is a good price to pay for a rebuild? The guy I'm taking it to is charging $1300 (with updated shaft/5th gear nut). Also, since I'm dropping the tranny, do I need to take the transfer case off separately, or can I just take out transfer case & tranny together? Thanks again. This site has saved me TONS of money in labor charges!
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 11:25 AM
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the transfer will have to be taken off before you take the tranny in to get it rebuilt anyway, so the lighter the better and thats a fair price IMO. my 5600 was $2300
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 12:30 PM
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I think $1300 sounds a tad steep....


What all does yours need?? What is it doing??

I'd shop around a little I bet you can get an exchang unit for that price, exchanges are always based on your core being thrashed. So unless yours is junk a rebuild should be cheaper.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 02:16 PM
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I lost 5th gear a few months ago 2 miles after picking up a fema trailer in mississippi. I just put it in 1st, let the clutch out and it jerked really bad and died. I started it back up and took off and all was well til I got on I-59 and 5th gear was gone. When I got home, I took the tail housing off expecting to fix the usual 5th gear nut problem, but it was fine...still welded on tight. The countershaft snap ring & groove it fits into were gone. The thrust washer & rear countershaft bearing cage were torn to bits(had to clear out all the debris out). I have searched everywhere but haven't seen anyone else have this problem. Also, when the truck is running, in neutral, and I had the clutch in, when I let it out the rpms would jump just a bit. If you can figure this one out, I'll buy ya a case of beer!
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 02:38 PM
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I would want all new shafts, bearings, and syncros. I pulled mine down, and just fixed what was wrong the first time. Which was the syncros, and bearings, just to get to do it all over again in 6 months. and I think getblown will tell you the same story. SO do it once and do it right. AS far as the idle with the clutch in and out I would say that the ecm is telling the motor it has a load (small as it may be) on it, and giving it more fuel to keep it running. Like when you idle up a hill in a low gear (no thottle at all) and it seems to fuel itself to keep from stalling. It use to be a govenor on the older trucks, but now it's done by the ecm. I will have to wait on that beer for a few years
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 10:11 AM
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I removed the transfer case & rear tranny cover and the countershaft is just hanging loose, all the bearings are gone. I wish I could just replace the support bearings, thrust washer, and syncros and put it back together......but I think the snap ring groove at the end of the shaft is gone, but I'm not sure. I've already bought the parts listed above. What do you guys think I should do??
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 01:12 PM
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Mine is coming out in a month or two because the third gear synchro is gone. I am gonna just replace it with a fully rebuilt unit. Don't wanna have to pull it twice. I agree with Brian, him and GB5.9 are pulling theirs again because they only replaced what was needing replaced.
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 03:49 PM
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I'm just trying to get it going for now. I can't afford a new tranny, so I thought I'd just fix it with the parts I have til I can afford a new tranny. Anyone know how to put the rear bearing/thrust washer onto the countershaft?
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 08:33 AM
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Try this link. It should take you to an article on changing the tailshaft on an NV4500.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/projects/jeeptherapy5.htm

Joe
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 08:12 AM
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I'm having a rough time getting those bolts off the crossmember! Does anyone know what size the bolts/nuts are? I think the bolts are 13mm but don't know about the nuts. I think I need a long extension to reach the nuts. Is there an easier way?
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 01:46 AM
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Having the right tools will help. I used a deep socket on a short extension with an impact gun on one side and a box end wrench on the other side to hold the bolt. Can't remember what sizes. DOH!

It worked slick, and didn't take long at all to remove the bolts. Using an impact wrench is a knuckle saver. If you can borrow one, do it!

Joe
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