The dealer is not very far. And I think there’s a mechanic not far from there with the special programmer

 

Should I have it flashed before trying to locate shorts or parasitic draws.

 

I purchased an inexpensive breakout box to try and read voltages and ohms across the can bus lines and the thing that’s throwing me off is the the ohms seems normal at around 61 ohms but the twisted pair of can lines is reading the same 2.62 volts each. So I’m assuming they are shorting together. And I’m wondering the best plan now that I know that. Or if anyone can point me to where I can find a diagram for the entire route of the can bus wires and if anyone knows if I have more than one set of can bus set of wires and which are which (because I see two different color sets of twisted wires and if I have star link connectors. If so , where?
Also , i think because there’s no communication in the can bus network, I am not able to erase the codes and I’ve tried swapping back and forth with the old tipm and it won’t let me erase and each tipm has their own unique sets of codes. Mostly the same but now it’s not getting fuel after I drained the fuel filter and it’s throwing a fuel level sensor circuit high and open code.

 

Back to getting the tipm reflashed. You’re getting unique sets of codes with each one. Some of them wanted the tipm flashed to the vin of the vehicle. At this point, without a slightly more advanced scan tool, you’re chasing ghosts. Return the unit to a known starting point, then work out from there

 

I will be giving that a try

 

Thanks for all the support. I have looked and cannot find answers for my specific truck. I am wondering that if my fuel pump is not priming, is there a way that I can test the fuel pump relay that is built into my tipm fuse box? If so, how? And where exactly in my fuse box tipm is the slot

 

Have you had the reflash done yet? Or are you still flying blind in a series of box canyons?

 

I’m waiting

 

Local dealer doesn’t want to try to reprogram it because it is not brand new. Or rebuilt so I’m considering tying to find out exactly how to try and bypass the fuel pump relay. I was told it’s an orange with red tracer on the back of the tipm. And I see 2 orange with red tracers

 

I wasn’t sure what I was doing but i figured I’d try something since the fuel system is not priming and that is an added issue to my electrical problems and the only shop near me says the only way they can try to reflash the tipm is to first take care of the fuel issue and have the truck running atleast first and have the truck there to have the tipm reflashed. So I can hear the fuel pump clicking in the fuel tank when the key is cycled on and off but it’s not priming. One of the red with orange tracers is larger than the other and that has battery voltage on it 12.6v with the key on and off and the other one which I suspect is my target wire has 11.04 volts with the key off and when the key is turned on, that wire momentarily goes up to 12.3 or so for a second only and then back at 11.04. Does that indicate a fault or can that be normal?

 

RAM from these years is often sold with modifications, and people don't even realize anything has been changed inside. Therefore, it's best to search window sticker by vin on the website https://carfast.express/ru/window_sticker and check the factory configuration.
This will help you understand what should and shouldn't be included, identify the original options, and simplify the search for modules you installed yourself.