Looking for help and a color code chart for the wires on the big blue connector on back of tipm on a 2007 ram 3500 6.7 4x4 with the g56 manual transmission . There’s a big blue connector and a smaller one. I need the info for the grey wire with red stripe on the big connector please and also please tell me what could possibly be causing that wire to parasitically draw over 1/2 amp as long as the radio fuse is in. Fuse doesn’t break. If I unplug the fuse, the parasitic draw goes away

 

I found this on a google search, hope it helps.
Typically on any car anything less than 350 mA (0.035A) is acceptable with some rare cases of cars publishing a spec of 0.050A or less. Those reporting 0.035-0.038A are in the right range, Over 1A will cause you batteries to go dead in short time if it is not started fairly regularly. If you already know which fuse is reducing the draw then it is just a matter of unplugging items on that circuit one at a time until you know which component is causing it. Typically it is an aftermarket item causing the issue but it can also be things like lights not turning off (ie trunk or glove box lightts) due to faulty switches. You said it is on the stereo circuit...is it a factory stereo in the car or aftermarket? If it is aftermarket are you positive it is hooked up right? There should be one wire for constant power (clock, memory, etc) and one to turn it on with ignition switch, sometimes people hook both up to constant power. Either way try unplugging the stereo and see what happens.

 

There’s definitely something fishy going on with my truck. I learned it’s the grey with red stripe wire on the big blue connector on back of tipm and it goes into the 2 yellow wires on the aftermarket radio and those 2 wires tie into the one small yellow wire on the stereo harness which I was told is the 12v constant. The fuses on the tipm or radio do not break abd the stereo works fine. And my truck will not let me start the truck without the radio connected… obd2 lost communication with radio as well as overhead module and hvac controller. Also getting lots of circuit high and low codes and a cab bus circuit (-) high code and FCM internal code . Ignition run only circuit open as well as ignition run control 1 circuit low …. Im checking for a short somewhere and I haven’t found it in weeks

 

I installed the used tipm I ordered on ebay and did a hard reset and everything started up normal and a couple minutes later, mostly all the codes started coming back so I’m pretty sure it wasn’t the tipm.
Still getting all kind of high and low circuit codes and circuit open codes. FCM Internal, can bus (-) high , etc etc. Starter control circuit overcurrent, lost communication with radio, low battery voltage….left high beam control circuit high

 

Something that we learned the hard way in the past, is that the tipm and the fcm have a very symbiotic relationship. Changing one without changing the other can occasionally lead to the same problem you started out with.
In my experience this was more prevalent on the 06-07 model years.
what are the codes you’re running up against.

 

U0184
p127a
b1634
b210d
u0024

 

Your 0024 code is can (-) open. That can cause upset of whatever electrical deity you subscribe to.

it can be caused by a broken wire, or something as simple as a spread or fretted connector pin, or a pin pushed slightly out of its slot.

this could lead to the 0184, as without the corresponding signal, it might think the radio isn’t wanting to talk to the rest of the system.

your 210
and 127 codes both refer to power issues. Which could be as simple as a bad or corroded connection at the battery, starter, or anywhere else in the charging circuit.

its starting to sound like you may have a bad ground thats beating you up. Have you checked all of them

 

I think it maybe a grounding fault. I will install a couple more. And possibly try to isolate and move the accessory wire to the proper location on the stereo and hopefully that solves it because I think both wires are tied together but been that way for a couple years with no issues. I just finished cleaning connectors with electronics cleaner and soldered a broken wire that plugs into the transmission that was rubbing alittle on the front drive shaft. Thanks for the info

 

Also I have had a nasty brake fluid leak that I’ve been postponing to swap out until a few days ago. I finally swapped out the brake master cylinder and reservoir. I’m wondering if the brake fluid would damage those computers on the side of the engine over there and what I should look for. I guess if the previous fixes that I mentioned in my last comment don’t fix the issue, I will try to unplug those and inspect and clean to see if that will fix the issues. Thanks

 

While electrical contact cleaner is a wonderful thing, if the contacts are micro arced or loose, cleaner won’t solve that, you’ll have to physically re spring the female contacts, and possibly clean the male pins with some scrubbing.

 

I have added 2 new ground cables. One from the engine to battery and one from engine to the metal near the firewall. I would like to know what would happen if two of the plugs that plug into the transmission were left unplugged accidentally? My transmission has 3 plugs . One on the passenger side on the side and two plugs harder to see on the drivers side near the top. And the two on drivers side were accidentally left unplugged after reassembling the transmission and I drove it like that for about 5 hours that day after reassembling the transmission and it didn’t have any obvious drivability issues but the next day, my truck started misfiring while I was driving and a check engine light came on as well as red lightning bolt and I knew something wasn’t right so I turned around and made it back which was only a few minutes after leaving and when I got back I noticed all kinds of electrical codes saying problems that seemed bogus. I got codes for exhaust brake pressure sensor and I thought that might have to do with a crack in my exhaust pipe right next to the turbo so I repaired that crack and that code went away but I still all the sudden had a bunch of new codes related to battery low and high and low circuits and I still didn’t realize those two plugs were left unplugged. A couple weeks later of trying to figure it all out on my own, I found those plugs unplugged so I cleaned them and plugged them back in. One wire from the transmission got frayed and broken so i soldered it back together hoping that it was good to go. The truck still was drivable but I didn’t chance driving it with all the new codes and no communication with the radio and so on. so it’s been sitting for 2 months now and those codes have not gone away. There’s no communication with the radio, the hvac control module or the overhead module. I’m wondering if those plugs that were left unplugged would cause damage to other wires or cause the can bus wires to short or knock out a module for good or something… im trying to figure out what my plan of attack should be to diagnose it properly. Also, I think that because there was no communication with the can bus system to several other modules, more and more codes are popping up out of nowhere. Just the other day, I drained the water and fuel separator filter and when I tried to prime that filter to start the engine, it wouldn’t start anymore and the fuel would not fill up the filter anymore so I know there’s a fuel module that has started getting triggered so it’s not turning the gas on. I know my tank has gas and I know my fuel pump is good. It started throwing a code for b2215 FCM internal. And my starter is brand new less than 2 months old. As well as air intake heater system performance and another code indicates air heater system circuit is low. Here’s all the codes I’ve had in the last 2 months since I stopped driving it when it started misfiring: (some of these codes went away and some are still there)
p127a
u0184
b2204 this one came as expected when I put the tipm I got on ebay.
b1634
b210d
u0024
p0521
b1644
b1648
p1274
p0533
p2509
p1279
p2609
p0541
b212d
b2122
u0164
u0156
b1633
I ordered and installed a used tipm the other day and the truck started but within a few minutes of starting the truck, most codes came back but not all. And this time the can bus code came on the U0024 code so that was frustrating .. on a side note, I still have not been able to pin point my parasitic draw going on either. Or where the short is. Maybe in the radio but it still works and not a single fuse is blown including the radio fuses . I located the wire on the back of the tipm that was causing the parasitic draw and it was the radio constant 12v that feeds the radio wire that is grey with a red stripe on the back of tipm and the aftermarket radio it plugs into a harness that makes it a yellow wire into the radio but I cannot start the truck without the radio plugged in. And without the radio fuse, my obd2 port or interior or any lights don’t work. I cleaned a harness that was gunked up next to the fuel rail and I’m going to try to start it tomorrow and see if the fuel delivery turns on. I’m not sure if my fuel pump relay is in the tipm or the one relay in a small black box next to the battery. Too much. I am overwhelmed with it but I’m hoping I can get it working soon and free from any codes again. I haven’t had a single code or light on the dash since I got it alittle over 2 years ago. Since the replacement tipm I got didn’t seem to change a whole lot or seem to fix my electrical problems , I switch back to the old tipm and that’s when it started temporarily And shut off and then gave a fuel related code and wouldn’t start so today I installed some higher quality grounds abd cleaned the fuel sensor so if it doesn’t start up tomorrow, I’m probably going to look into the fuel relay location or reinstall the replacement tipm again

 

What voltage is the system at when running. Should be 13.7-14.2 volts when running

 

That seems normal around 14.2 volts

 

After installing the used tipm, it cranks this time only but no start and it’s not getting gas. I can hear the fuel pump clicking in the tank but the fuel filter is not filling and the gauge is saying I have no gas. But the new codes are saying
p0463 fuel level sensor 1 circuit high
p127e fuel pump control circuit 2 open

 

Do you have anyone around that can reflash the tipm for
you?