My truck started revvin out of control after 260000 miles.
I turned key off but it would not die ,after puttin on brakes & poppin clutch to get it to die truck would not start.
my mechanic took valve cover off & said # 1 cylinder lost the valve.
Do i need a new engine?
Can you fix the 1 cylinder without pullin the whole engine?
it seems im looking at a 10000 dollar fix for a 13000 dollar truck.
any suggestions would be greatlu appreciated.
03 dodge 3500 2wd quadcab 5.9 6 speed

 

You can pull the head off , and if the cylinder wall is not damaged , you can probably get by with just a piston and a head ( unless somehow those two items did not get damaged) if all it needs is a piston and a head , it can be done in frame.

If the cylinder wall is scored , it will have to be pulled out, bored , and have a dry sleeve pressed in.

 

Wow. Got to wonder what would have happened if you had an Auto.

 

I was wondering the same thing? Would one of those lock up switches be a good thing for this purpose?

Foot on Brake and depress lock up switch to hope truck dies?

Hope you find minimal damage RopeMan...

Jeff

 

hi
what was it using for fuel after you turned off the key ?

was the valve supposed to be the cause or just something caused by overreving ??

 

If it ran away and then died and you can see one valve dropped, I'd bet once you get the head off you will find lots of other valves bent. I don't mean to be negative, but I'd be expecting the worst and hoping for the best.

If they run away hard, the clutch won't necessarily kill it. I talked to one guy who had a truck that was started in a paint booth before it had been aired out. Once it ran away, the kid who started it tried shutting the key off, then shoved it into gear, held the brakes, and dropped the clutch. It ejected the clutch.

Instead of only a blown engine, it ended up with a ruined clutch, ruined transmission (input shaft and case) and a hole in passenger side floor....


Anyway, good luck with it.

 

Id have to wonder if the runaway was from a broken valve allowing oil / fuel in
or if there was a leak somewhere else like in the turbo. Hopefully its just the valves that are damaged and you can replace the head or just the damaged bits
The only way to stop a runaway is to kill the air supply or slow the motor somehow with the brakes and clutch.
Ive been thinking about mounting a can of compressed CO2 and plumbing it into the air intake so I can dump it in to kill the engine if it ever did start burning its own oil. I know some setups have a gate switch in the air snorkel but I cant seem to find anything like that to adapt.

 

Up here in oil country we see lots of trucks with an air intake shut off vlv. I understand it's a requirement for diesel trucks that go onto certain oil installation properties. When you think about it, it makes sense to have one just even for a propane leak around an RV. I think I'll research the prices a little and update what I find. As for the dropped vlv, my guess is it was the end result of the runaway and possibly caused by stalling the engine, if so there may not be too much damage but I would suspect more bent vlvs. Just pull the head and have a look.

 

Absolutely not affiliated in any way, But I have installed one of these before :

AMOT shutoff valve

 

wow runaway is one thing i have always been scared of working around diesels.
good thing you at least got it stopped. i heard some pretty bad horror stories.

 

wonder what kind of quarter mile times that baby might have marked in that condition.

 

Thx for the replys guys.
Im not sure which came first the valve or the revv.
im gonna have my head puled & hope for the best.
if theres no damage to cylinder wall ill do an inframe piston swap.
if the wall is scored. im screwed.
my truck has 276000 miles on it rt now.
its got a brand new clutch & brand new rubber all around.
but i cant see spending 10 k on it to repair or repower.
i owe 8k on it now. What could i get by parting it out?
anyone want a o3 in good shape for 6500?
id be willing to let her go for that if its a cylinder wall.
im sure thats pretty high for what i got but i cant take to big a hit on it.
to resleeve the cylinder itll be alot of labor cost for me & i think ill just cut my losses & go by a new one. Ill let ya know whats up after i get head off .
THANKS FOR THE HELP!!!!!!!!!

 

I haven't seen where when a valve drops it the runs away. i would think there is another reason why the engine ran away and the dropped valve was a result of the run away.

 

Not long ago, I had to inspect a Cummins ISX runaway and it had dropped a valve also, it was on the dyno and the tech said it just ran away for no reason. they had just replace the head gasket. after inspecting it the engine would not rotate, it had coolant in the cylinders, had the tech remove everything on the head, looked at it again and found a hole in the intake port, pulled the head off , still could not see anything and after inspecting it, and it was buried in the head casting a 19 mm deep socket, ask the tech if he was missing one , of course not he said LOL , I handed the one I found in the head to him and told him check again. what he did was left it in the head after putting the top end together and it got jammed between the cam and head, broke completely thru the casting into the intake and thru the intake back in to the head and sure enough the ISX head hold about a gallon of oil in the galleries and suck it thru the hole. so it wasnt the valve that cause it to runaway. anything is possible , but have never seen a runaway from a valve drop only.

 

Well, if the cylinder is trashed, maybe you might come out better financially with a salvage yard engine, if you can get a good deal?