loose steering help??
loose steering help??
My steering is way too loose and im out of solutions! I've tightened down my steering box(allen screw on top) and looked at all the steering parts(I think) and can't fix the play in my steering wheel. Ever since I put new tires on it, it has gotten very loose. The new tires are Maxxis Buckshot Mudders(305/75R16). Any suggestions? Does anyone else have these tires and excess steering play? Thanks in advance for your help.
wadecool, I am surprised someone else has not jumped on this thread. Have you had someone turn the steering wheel while you are under the truck? You did not mention the track bar. If you have not checked it that is the first place to check. Check all the ball joints in the steering system. This fall I replaced my track bar and ball joint on the pitman. That helped a lot. But was still not right. I finally put on the DSS. What an improvement!
Hope this helps. If not keep asking.
Stan
Hope this helps. If not keep asking.
Stan
SWC, I replkaced all the ball joints, track bar, and both front wheel hubs about 50K ago. I'm wondering why the steering would go bad right when I got new tires. I went from 285's to 305's. Would a larger tire size affect my steering?
wadecool, I am surprised someone else has not jumped on this thread. Have you had someone turn the steering wheel while you are under the truck? You did not mention the track bar. If you have not checked it that is the first place to check. Check all the ball joints in the steering system. This fall I replaced my track bar and ball joint on the pitman. That helped a lot. But was still not right. I finally put on the DSS. What an improvement!
Hope this helps. If not keep asking.
Stan
Hope this helps. If not keep asking.
Stan
Thanks
Gary
wadecool I have a dually and my tire size is what came from the factory. I could see where a different tire could affect handling.
I have 380000 kms or 235000 miles on the truck. When I have purchased tires I have stayed with the michelin style that came with the truck. I recently tried some of those new Goodyear Road Armor tires with kevlar belts. When I buy tires I usually buy 2 and put them on the front. The steering was different with the GY on the front. Hard to describe but almost like there was more flex in the tire. Kind of a squirming sensation. I put the GYs on the back and Michilins on the front. That helped, but that squirming feeling was still there. The tire dealer gave me a good deal and took back the GY and got me some Michelins. Even though the two tires were the same size, the GY were 1/2 inch less in circumference then the Michelins. This may have contributed to the handling. The transfer case sure made a bang when I took it out of four wheel drive and I was on a dry road.
I had to replace my track bar and pitman ball joint after 55000 miles. This was Moog parts that have a lifetime warranty. My original trackbar had 124000 miles when I put the Moog parts on. I would check the track bar again. I should have gone with the 3rd gen track bar when I first replaced it. The Moog parts didn't cost me anything other then my time to replace them.
Alaskaflyer, I purchased my DSS directly form Solid Steel. They are not that far from me. For price check with PDR or Rip. I live in Canada and with the dollar difference my price is higher. For more exposure, put that question in the 2nd gen forum.
Stan
I have 380000 kms or 235000 miles on the truck. When I have purchased tires I have stayed with the michelin style that came with the truck. I recently tried some of those new Goodyear Road Armor tires with kevlar belts. When I buy tires I usually buy 2 and put them on the front. The steering was different with the GY on the front. Hard to describe but almost like there was more flex in the tire. Kind of a squirming sensation. I put the GYs on the back and Michilins on the front. That helped, but that squirming feeling was still there. The tire dealer gave me a good deal and took back the GY and got me some Michelins. Even though the two tires were the same size, the GY were 1/2 inch less in circumference then the Michelins. This may have contributed to the handling. The transfer case sure made a bang when I took it out of four wheel drive and I was on a dry road.
I had to replace my track bar and pitman ball joint after 55000 miles. This was Moog parts that have a lifetime warranty. My original trackbar had 124000 miles when I put the Moog parts on. I would check the track bar again. I should have gone with the 3rd gen track bar when I first replaced it. The Moog parts didn't cost me anything other then my time to replace them.
Alaskaflyer, I purchased my DSS directly form Solid Steel. They are not that far from me. For price check with PDR or Rip. I live in Canada and with the dollar difference my price is higher. For more exposure, put that question in the 2nd gen forum.
Stan
SWC, I had those GY silentarmour tires also, and they had the same squirmy feel. I recently replaced my trackbar, but the stabilizer bar seems a little loose. What does the stabilizer bar do/how much of a role does it play in my loose steering?
wadecool, when you say stabilizer bar, do you mean the bar that is attached to each end of the front axle and attached to both frame rails in a rubber bushing? I don't believe that would have any affect on the steering. I believe that stabilizer is to control body roll. If I am not right someone will correct me on that.
One more thing to check might be the bolts that hold the steering box against the frame. Although you would have noticed them being loose when you tightened the play in steering box. I discovered mine were loose several years ago when I was changing oil.
I cannot say enough about the DSS from Solid Steel. As others have said the steering box on these trucks is not big enough for the job. The 5.9 is a heavy motor. That is one reason why it lasts as long as it does. If you look at the steering boxes on class 5 trucks which use the same motor I believe most would use a bigger steering box. The DSS takes a lot of the pressure off the steering box by giving support to the shaft below the box. That small amount of play that was at the end of the shaft of the steering box before the brace was on is gone. Once there is any looseness anywhere in the steering assembly it becomes a pounding force which speeds up the wearing process throughout the steering system. This bit of information came from an alignment tech when I was having my front end alignment. When you go to a wider tire the steering resistance is increased which compounds this whole issue.
This got kinda long, but hope it helps you.
Stan
One more thing to check might be the bolts that hold the steering box against the frame. Although you would have noticed them being loose when you tightened the play in steering box. I discovered mine were loose several years ago when I was changing oil.
I cannot say enough about the DSS from Solid Steel. As others have said the steering box on these trucks is not big enough for the job. The 5.9 is a heavy motor. That is one reason why it lasts as long as it does. If you look at the steering boxes on class 5 trucks which use the same motor I believe most would use a bigger steering box. The DSS takes a lot of the pressure off the steering box by giving support to the shaft below the box. That small amount of play that was at the end of the shaft of the steering box before the brace was on is gone. Once there is any looseness anywhere in the steering assembly it becomes a pounding force which speeds up the wearing process throughout the steering system. This bit of information came from an alignment tech when I was having my front end alignment. When you go to a wider tire the steering resistance is increased which compounds this whole issue.
This got kinda long, but hope it helps you.
Stan
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SWC, the track bar is ok, all the balljoints are ok, so the only thing I can see that's loose is the stabilizer bar. So I'm still scratching my head about what's causing the loose steering. I don't know what else to do. If I try to tighten the bearing on steering box, could that help?
wadecool, if there is some play in that shaft that would help. There are some alignment specs somewhere on DTR. Go to an alignment shop you trust with those specs. If you can take the time be there when they do the alignment. Alot of shops don't like customers back in the shop. Those shops don't deserve your business. Just say you won't get in the way and you want to learn. Most mechanics and techs don't mind as long as you aren't a pest.
Stan
Stan
check the track bar, they can wear fast.
one thing to remember, larger diameter tires have more leverage on the front end parts. It's like trying to loosen a bolt with a 6 inch wrench vs. a 30" breaker bar. the increased leverage beats the front end up faster.
one thing to remember, larger diameter tires have more leverage on the front end parts. It's like trying to loosen a bolt with a 6 inch wrench vs. a 30" breaker bar. the increased leverage beats the front end up faster.
I would have someone that knows how to work on those steering boxes look at it because it is my understanding that you don't touch that screw without adding shims somewhere inside. But I could be wrong. Please correct me if I am. Good Luck.
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