mr T

oh man this sucks! my brake light stayed on and the pedal got all mushy....i noticed some drips near my driver's rear wheel...it wouldnt go away...i parked and checked the fluid...almost bone dry and i made a puddle near driver's side rear wheel...it looks like it came fromthe rubber lines along the frame but it got my fueltank all oily ...but it isnt diesel fuel...help guys.....there are 2 rubber hozes that i can see going to the rear they're both wet....there's just 2 lines there right? i cant see any others........what are my best options?

mr T

sorry one more question...how much dot 3 fluid does the system take?....i bought just 3 lil jugs to get me around the corner to the shoptommorowmorning so they can replace the line...i should expect no more than 1 hour labour right? what will the rubber line cost? 15$ or so?

Rattlerattle

Where is it leaking from? Front or back.

If there is air in the system (typical with a leak) you will have to bleed the system.

MedicShawn

On my 2nd gen truck I had the hard line snap (rust) between the frame rail and the fuel tank. It's hard line all the way from your master cylinder back to your rear axle then it turns into rubber lines to your caliper.

I wouln't try to drive it anywhere you can't make enough pressure to make the brakes work. No matter how much fluid you put in it. It'e probably more than an hour labor you have to drop the tank to get to the lines. You can probably fix it your self go to NAPA and buy some new brake line and a bender. You should be able to disconnect the brake line at the fittings in the front of the truck and at the rear and bend/install the new line in it's place. Bleed your brakes and re install everyhting.

mr T

rattlerattle its leaking rear driver's side.....umm u mean there are lines between the tank and the inside side of the frame?? ...awww man...tellme something better

Jeremy Cusick

If it's the rear rubber line, it's $38 and change at NAPA. Sounds like the steel line rusted through. I'd cut it in front of the tank and run new line to the rear of the tank. All you need is the correct size line, small tubing cutter, double flaring kit, and some threaded connectors. Might take you an hour and a half to change the line, another 30 - 45 minutes to bleed the system. Better go ahead and buy a gallon of brake fluid... that way, you don't have to make a return trip for more in the middle of the project.

HOdiesel

Also check the rear tire. It could be the break cylinder seals leaking (more likely IMHO).

mr T

thanx for all ther reply guys...well it indeed was the steel line that ruptured and the right wheel cylinder was completely pooled with brake fluid so that has to be taken care of...its in the shop right now...they're gonna rebuild the the right as well...gonna be 500$....I think thats fair for everything they have to do

appreciate the help guys

s-mcbride

Lines were good as new in some spots, and completely rusted out in others.

ataboy9026

Yep... mine rusted behind the tank also. I put a simplle tie down strap on each end of tank and a floor jack under center of tank. As I let tank down I loosened each strap a little at a time to "balance" the tank as it came out.Then took out old line and replaced it by bending a new one to match up using the old as a pattern. I must say it looks every bit as perfect as the stock other than the union joining pieces together as you cannot buy one long enough to do it in one piece. Then reinstalled tank the same way using strap on eack end to "teeter-totter" tank up into position. A little up front as the fuel ran to back of tank, then a little in the back as I tightened the rear strap. The tank was very tipsy-turvy and the straps helped. It was impossible to balance such a long tank on the jack as fuel would shift changing the balance point. It took about 3 hours but I was taking my time trying not to cuss and throw things. All for about 20 bucks. And no $300 bill or better for a shop to do it.