electrical issues help wanted
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From: FL
electrical issues help wanted
Hello , I am seeking advice out of frustration in hopes of getting help with some of my electrical problems. I find the wiring diagram in the Hayes book or anything online not a lot of help to me personally and I’m hopeful to find some assistance on this forum to locate these things from this parasitic draw and electrical problems for someone without a lot of electrical schematic experience.
I have been at it trying to find a short or anything to fix my truck. I disconnected most connections in engine area as well as the radio and aftermarket accessories. I have been asking different people I know from family or work and such but I still have not figured it all out yet. I do not have an under hood lamp. I disconnected the rear lights as well as front lights. I checked for anything that might have been left on and unplugged any cigarette lighters and brake controller. I have had this truck for approximately 2 years and have never had to deal with anything as frustrating and time consuming. I’ve been without the truck for almost 2 months now.
Here’s alittle background of the truck and how I think it got to this point. Which I think might help..
The truck is a 2007 Ram 3500 cab and chassis with 6.7 cummins with g56 manual transmission and 4x4 with around 175k miles on a replaced engine. I’m getting a bunch of codes on my diagnostic scanner. It’s not a highend scanner but I think I paid $300 from Autozone for it and it does alot but not like the ones that the dealer or mechanics have. Before I mention the codes, let me mention how I think it all started….
About 2 months ago, I was on my way to work which was about 2 hours away from where I’m staying and I could feel the manual clutch pedal was getting soft and was losing it’s effectiveness and the more and more I drove it I could feel the clutch pedal getting worse. I made it to work but hoping to make it there knowing I might not but i made it there but I didn’t work that day because I lost the clutch completely as soon as I got there and i could no longer put it into gear so I didnt make it to a parking spot and i was blocking traffic with my trailer attached. Long story shorter, the retaining clip that holds the fork on the pivot ball disappeared and would no longer engage the clutch. Clutch pedal goes to the floor without any resistance. I asked some coworkers at my job and one suspected the clutch master and slave cylinder. So I replaced and came to find out on the other side of bell housing, the clutch fork that the pushrod pushes is not lining up with the pushrod and somehow got knocked off the pivot ball.
I realized then that the transmission had to be lowered to inspect and replace stuff so I had the truck towed to a local repair shop which had it for 2 weeks without doing anything except removing driveshaft and starter. I didn’t have the time to let more days pass by so I pulled it out of there with another truck down the street to a spot where I attempted to do it myself with a helper as it seemed fairly straightforward of a job and I got the clutch working again but not not without some caveats.
The next day after finally fixing the clutch, everything was going smooth and I drove a total of 5 hours round trip and everything went smooth. The next day, I left to my storage to drop something off and about a mile and half away , I can feel the engine misfiring and slightly reving alittle higher than normal with a misfiring shaky feel to it along with a check engine light and red lighting bolt on the dash. So I pull over right away to see what my scanner says. Right away the scanner is throwing about 8 codes signaling many different things so I suspected batteries first. One was bad. I didn’t figure that out for atleast a week because voltages were showing good on a multi meter which is all I could go off of.
After about another week goes by trying to figure it out, i got it replaced after I finally got it to a
the parts store where they tested the batteries and found one bad. After that, I found I have a parasitic draw so a couple weeks go by I still cannot find the parasitic draw. I take it and get the dodge dealer to put their scanner and they say bad tipm and cluster.. I mentioned some other stuff so they deleted the codes and the cluster code didn’t come back so they quoted me $2000+ for just a new tipm and reprogramming of the replacement tipm. I remember someone else just going through cleaning their tipm so I’m thinking remove and clean tipm myself and the next day, I stop at a gas station near my place to get gas for my mower and then the truck won’t start. Sounds and feels like a dead battery. Small amount weak cranking and clicks and wont start and my battery meter shows it’s pulling an awful lot off of just cranking but still at around 80% but at the moment it still wouldn’t start. I knew something was not right.
Took me about 30 minutes of disconnecting the batteries and fully charging them but it was still hesitant like it had dead batteries but I finally managed to get it started and back about a mile and a half where I can start at the basics of checking the wiring and grounds for any damage and clean the tipm.
I live in a rural area and not many diesel mechanics around that I know of and the ones I do are usually 2 weeks behind on work. So I have been trying what I know and I realized when we put the transmission back, only one wire on the transmission was put back into connector and the person helping was the one that disconnected the wires so I didn’t even realize to check that there were two other wires that were left unplugged from the top of transmission by accident . I know I had a few unplugged connectors around there from a deleted pipe for the o2 sensors so I payed it no mind. I finally thought I figured it out and that’s probably why I was having all strange electrical problems so I plugged the two plugs all back in the transmission.
I then realized I noticed an engine ground strap broke from a spot that seems impossible to replace it. It was on the back of the 6.7 engine at the very top near the center. I only noticed it when the transmission was out but I figured it’s been like that and I figured I would find another spot to put another. I don’t think without lowering the transmission again I would be able to replace that broken ground strap so I installed a 4 gauge wire on a part of the bottom of engine where it meets the transmission to a similar place near the firewall and I finally got the truck started again without it acting like it has a dead battery but I think I still needed to add another ground wire or two so I added a welding cable from negative battery to battery.
It seems to be requiring an abnormal amount of cranking draw that doesn’t seem normal so maybe one more ground will be needed but I am still going to check on that today. Ever since I got the truck in 2022, I have not even has a single light on the dash.
So atfter cleaning the tipm with CRC QD electronic cleaner, I used alittle deoxit d100l on the contacts. There was minimal corrosion. Mostly dusty but there was one spot with green corrosion but it cleaned up nice and I couldn’t find any broken soldered joints, broken traces or bulging capacitors so I cleaned it and tied the negative and positive terminals together overnight to try to reset the tipm. I put it back in the truck and followed the directions on resetting it and the truck starts fine and runs and sounds good but codes would not go away and I have not been able to find the parasitic draw and I’m wondering if I could get some help.
I noticed my backup camera stopped working days before all of this started but anyways, these are the current codes. Oh and after trying to reset the tipm, the back up camera works again. Please advise what steps I should take. I would appreciate it.
The following are current codes stored that won’t go away :
lost communication with radio
lost communication with hvac control module
lost communication with electronic overhead module
U0026 can b bus - circuit high
FCM internal
ignition run control 1 circuit low
ignition run only input circuit open
Left high beam control circuit low
According to (startmycar) website, the yellow 20 amp #11 radio fuse is responsible for the following
Ignition off draw/ (IOD)
Cabin Compartment Node
Radio/
Underhood Lamp/
Wireless control module/
Satellite digital audio receiver/
Hands free module/
from doing two different amp draw tests, here are the results . First test removing the negative terminal and testing from that terminal to that post, it’s drawing 0.88 amps by itself and when I pull that fuse, immediately it drops to 0.22 amps for 20 seconds until it falls asleep and then drops to 0.02 amps. Put that fuse back in and back to 0.88 it goes and repeats.
2nd test was taking a broken fuse and testing directly into the broken fuse and it was 0.61 amps
Electrical problems are the worst. Because the dealer mentioned bad tipm , I ordered one which should be here around Friday but I still don’t think that’s the problem but I hope it is! And since I have nothing better to do than to try to get back to work, I will try to do whatever I can in the meantime.
according to the (startmycar) website, it says that if the fuse is not blown (which it is NOT) the only possible causes are wiring , power supply or radio.
i have disconnected all wires in back of radio, I do not have an under hood lamp and I checked for the hands free module behind the glove box area and it appears to not have one and the wire harness is just hanging there not plugged into it. Apparently the original owner removed it already or something.
no power windows or power door locks.
There are no relays In the tipm fuse box, I only found 2 relays total on my whole truck which is directly next to the tipm fuse box in a small black box which appears to have 4 relays slots but only 2 relays in it and one of them feels like a completely loose relay that’s been like that for some time and I don’t think it does anything with the way it feels so loose in it’s slot. I’m wondering if anyone knows if there are more relays and where they are located as well as a diagram for that small black box with those 2 relays… and any other help is appreciated
please advise
thanks
I have been at it trying to find a short or anything to fix my truck. I disconnected most connections in engine area as well as the radio and aftermarket accessories. I have been asking different people I know from family or work and such but I still have not figured it all out yet. I do not have an under hood lamp. I disconnected the rear lights as well as front lights. I checked for anything that might have been left on and unplugged any cigarette lighters and brake controller. I have had this truck for approximately 2 years and have never had to deal with anything as frustrating and time consuming. I’ve been without the truck for almost 2 months now.
Here’s alittle background of the truck and how I think it got to this point. Which I think might help..
The truck is a 2007 Ram 3500 cab and chassis with 6.7 cummins with g56 manual transmission and 4x4 with around 175k miles on a replaced engine. I’m getting a bunch of codes on my diagnostic scanner. It’s not a highend scanner but I think I paid $300 from Autozone for it and it does alot but not like the ones that the dealer or mechanics have. Before I mention the codes, let me mention how I think it all started….
About 2 months ago, I was on my way to work which was about 2 hours away from where I’m staying and I could feel the manual clutch pedal was getting soft and was losing it’s effectiveness and the more and more I drove it I could feel the clutch pedal getting worse. I made it to work but hoping to make it there knowing I might not but i made it there but I didn’t work that day because I lost the clutch completely as soon as I got there and i could no longer put it into gear so I didnt make it to a parking spot and i was blocking traffic with my trailer attached. Long story shorter, the retaining clip that holds the fork on the pivot ball disappeared and would no longer engage the clutch. Clutch pedal goes to the floor without any resistance. I asked some coworkers at my job and one suspected the clutch master and slave cylinder. So I replaced and came to find out on the other side of bell housing, the clutch fork that the pushrod pushes is not lining up with the pushrod and somehow got knocked off the pivot ball.
I realized then that the transmission had to be lowered to inspect and replace stuff so I had the truck towed to a local repair shop which had it for 2 weeks without doing anything except removing driveshaft and starter. I didn’t have the time to let more days pass by so I pulled it out of there with another truck down the street to a spot where I attempted to do it myself with a helper as it seemed fairly straightforward of a job and I got the clutch working again but not not without some caveats.
The next day after finally fixing the clutch, everything was going smooth and I drove a total of 5 hours round trip and everything went smooth. The next day, I left to my storage to drop something off and about a mile and half away , I can feel the engine misfiring and slightly reving alittle higher than normal with a misfiring shaky feel to it along with a check engine light and red lighting bolt on the dash. So I pull over right away to see what my scanner says. Right away the scanner is throwing about 8 codes signaling many different things so I suspected batteries first. One was bad. I didn’t figure that out for atleast a week because voltages were showing good on a multi meter which is all I could go off of.
After about another week goes by trying to figure it out, i got it replaced after I finally got it to a
the parts store where they tested the batteries and found one bad. After that, I found I have a parasitic draw so a couple weeks go by I still cannot find the parasitic draw. I take it and get the dodge dealer to put their scanner and they say bad tipm and cluster.. I mentioned some other stuff so they deleted the codes and the cluster code didn’t come back so they quoted me $2000+ for just a new tipm and reprogramming of the replacement tipm. I remember someone else just going through cleaning their tipm so I’m thinking remove and clean tipm myself and the next day, I stop at a gas station near my place to get gas for my mower and then the truck won’t start. Sounds and feels like a dead battery. Small amount weak cranking and clicks and wont start and my battery meter shows it’s pulling an awful lot off of just cranking but still at around 80% but at the moment it still wouldn’t start. I knew something was not right.
Took me about 30 minutes of disconnecting the batteries and fully charging them but it was still hesitant like it had dead batteries but I finally managed to get it started and back about a mile and a half where I can start at the basics of checking the wiring and grounds for any damage and clean the tipm.
I live in a rural area and not many diesel mechanics around that I know of and the ones I do are usually 2 weeks behind on work. So I have been trying what I know and I realized when we put the transmission back, only one wire on the transmission was put back into connector and the person helping was the one that disconnected the wires so I didn’t even realize to check that there were two other wires that were left unplugged from the top of transmission by accident . I know I had a few unplugged connectors around there from a deleted pipe for the o2 sensors so I payed it no mind. I finally thought I figured it out and that’s probably why I was having all strange electrical problems so I plugged the two plugs all back in the transmission.
I then realized I noticed an engine ground strap broke from a spot that seems impossible to replace it. It was on the back of the 6.7 engine at the very top near the center. I only noticed it when the transmission was out but I figured it’s been like that and I figured I would find another spot to put another. I don’t think without lowering the transmission again I would be able to replace that broken ground strap so I installed a 4 gauge wire on a part of the bottom of engine where it meets the transmission to a similar place near the firewall and I finally got the truck started again without it acting like it has a dead battery but I think I still needed to add another ground wire or two so I added a welding cable from negative battery to battery.
It seems to be requiring an abnormal amount of cranking draw that doesn’t seem normal so maybe one more ground will be needed but I am still going to check on that today. Ever since I got the truck in 2022, I have not even has a single light on the dash.
So atfter cleaning the tipm with CRC QD electronic cleaner, I used alittle deoxit d100l on the contacts. There was minimal corrosion. Mostly dusty but there was one spot with green corrosion but it cleaned up nice and I couldn’t find any broken soldered joints, broken traces or bulging capacitors so I cleaned it and tied the negative and positive terminals together overnight to try to reset the tipm. I put it back in the truck and followed the directions on resetting it and the truck starts fine and runs and sounds good but codes would not go away and I have not been able to find the parasitic draw and I’m wondering if I could get some help.
I noticed my backup camera stopped working days before all of this started but anyways, these are the current codes. Oh and after trying to reset the tipm, the back up camera works again. Please advise what steps I should take. I would appreciate it.
The following are current codes stored that won’t go away :
lost communication with radio
lost communication with hvac control module
lost communication with electronic overhead module
U0026 can b bus - circuit high
FCM internal
ignition run control 1 circuit low
ignition run only input circuit open
Left high beam control circuit low
According to (startmycar) website, the yellow 20 amp #11 radio fuse is responsible for the following
Ignition off draw/ (IOD)
Cabin Compartment Node
Radio/
Underhood Lamp/
Wireless control module/
Satellite digital audio receiver/
Hands free module/
from doing two different amp draw tests, here are the results . First test removing the negative terminal and testing from that terminal to that post, it’s drawing 0.88 amps by itself and when I pull that fuse, immediately it drops to 0.22 amps for 20 seconds until it falls asleep and then drops to 0.02 amps. Put that fuse back in and back to 0.88 it goes and repeats.
2nd test was taking a broken fuse and testing directly into the broken fuse and it was 0.61 amps
Electrical problems are the worst. Because the dealer mentioned bad tipm , I ordered one which should be here around Friday but I still don’t think that’s the problem but I hope it is! And since I have nothing better to do than to try to get back to work, I will try to do whatever I can in the meantime.
according to the (startmycar) website, it says that if the fuse is not blown (which it is NOT) the only possible causes are wiring , power supply or radio.
i have disconnected all wires in back of radio, I do not have an under hood lamp and I checked for the hands free module behind the glove box area and it appears to not have one and the wire harness is just hanging there not plugged into it. Apparently the original owner removed it already or something.
no power windows or power door locks.
There are no relays In the tipm fuse box, I only found 2 relays total on my whole truck which is directly next to the tipm fuse box in a small black box which appears to have 4 relays slots but only 2 relays in it and one of them feels like a completely loose relay that’s been like that for some time and I don’t think it does anything with the way it feels so loose in it’s slot. I’m wondering if anyone knows if there are more relays and where they are located as well as a diagram for that small black box with those 2 relays… and any other help is appreciated
please advise
thanks
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