Crankshaft Position Sensor
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Red Lion, PA
Crankshaft Position Sensor
Check engine light was on, so I took it to AutoZone and got these codes:
P0216 - The PCM has determined that there is a discrepancy between the "actual" and the "desired" injector timing.
P0234 - The PCM has determined that an overboost condition has occurred.
P0336 - The PCM has determined that the voltage signal from crankshaft position sensor "A" is out of range for the current engine operating condition.
The last code P0336 also came with 3 probalble causes:
This is all good stuff, but after a stop at the bank and a restart, the check engine light is out. It's raining right now and I'm wondering if there is a corroded plug/wire and the water may be giving me a good connection (while it's wet) and this might have caused the light to go out.
Any thoughts? Is it safe to drive?
The overboost is not a problem. As the turbo is freshly rebuilt. It needed a new housing because the wastegate shaft was frozen (in the closed position). Truck came from NY just east of lake Eire, lots of snow and salt.
P0216 - The PCM has determined that there is a discrepancy between the "actual" and the "desired" injector timing.
P0234 - The PCM has determined that an overboost condition has occurred.
P0336 - The PCM has determined that the voltage signal from crankshaft position sensor "A" is out of range for the current engine operating condition.
The last code P0336 also came with 3 probalble causes:
- Crank sensor defective
- Check connector and wiring to sensor
- Check trigger wheel for damage
This is all good stuff, but after a stop at the bank and a restart, the check engine light is out. It's raining right now and I'm wondering if there is a corroded plug/wire and the water may be giving me a good connection (while it's wet) and this might have caused the light to go out.
Any thoughts? Is it safe to drive?
The overboost is not a problem. As the turbo is freshly rebuilt. It needed a new housing because the wastegate shaft was frozen (in the closed position). Truck came from NY just east of lake Eire, lots of snow and salt.
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Ahwahnee, Ca
It could be either the CPS or the connections to it. I'd at least check the connector going to the CPS. My 97 CPS has about a 2 foot pigtail and the end is a 3-pin connector on top of engine kinda behind the oil fill plug in center of engine on top. It's a pain to disconnect the CPS because its .050inch above damper. If it comes back I'd check PCM connections and GND going to PCM and power to PCM and at least verify the CPS gap is correct.
I just replaced my CPS last year. Mine was dead so cleaning it and all the checks did nothing. Cost about $75. I got mine from NAPA but Cummins has them.
Sounds like you have an intermittant connection problem but hard to tell. Start figuring out where to get a CPS in case it craps out on you so your prepared.
I just replaced my CPS last year. Mine was dead so cleaning it and all the checks did nothing. Cost about $75. I got mine from NAPA but Cummins has them.
Sounds like you have an intermittant connection problem but hard to tell. Start figuring out where to get a CPS in case it craps out on you so your prepared.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Red Lion, PA
Thanx Dave,
Drove it while it was raining tonight and CE light did not come on. After sitting for about an hour and drying out, I drove it and the light came on, the rainb also stopped. It's dark, I'll look at the connections in the morning.
AutoZone had the CPS for $63, but they have to order it. I'll take your advice and order it tomorrow.
Thanx again for your help.
Drove it while it was raining tonight and CE light did not come on. After sitting for about an hour and drying out, I drove it and the light came on, the rainb also stopped. It's dark, I'll look at the connections in the morning.
AutoZone had the CPS for $63, but they have to order it. I'll take your advice and order it tomorrow.
Thanx again for your help.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Red Lion, PA
Thanx Rattlerbob, that should save some time finding the CPS. I'm thinking the CPS is ready to go. On the way home the tach would die, start back up, die again and so on. Valves realy seem to have a lot of slap. Kind of reminds me of a power stroke, it's embarrassing. I'm taking Dave's advice and ordering a CPS.
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From: St.Paul , MN
You may need some penetrating oil too as these can sometimes be tough to get out. They are a plastic bodied thing and they do bust off if you get too aggressive with them.
You also need a 10 mm 12 pt combination wrench to get at the top starter bolt. About med length. It helps the eat a big bowl of Wheaties first too. It takes a powerfull hand to get that top bolt loose.
You also need a 10 mm 12 pt combination wrench to get at the top starter bolt. About med length. It helps the eat a big bowl of Wheaties first too. It takes a powerfull hand to get that top bolt loose.
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 300
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From: Ahwahnee, Ca
Thanx Rattlerbob, that should save some time finding the CPS. I'm thinking the CPS is ready to go. On the way home the tach would die, start back up, die again and so on. Valves realy seem to have a lot of slap. Kind of reminds me of a power stroke, it's embarrassing. I'm taking Dave's advice and ordering a CPS.
I see, thanks to "rattlerbob5.9" that the CPS is near starter. I 've had the starter out and its kinda cramped in there and a wrench (not a racket) is all that works on some of them bolts. I found a trick to tighten that upper bolt. The wrench is too short to get torque on it but put a 2x4 between the end of wrench and your jack and jack it up it tighten...worked for me.
This is my TDR Thread on my starter removal on my 97:
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...nt-w-pics.html....Here is an exerpt from the thread:
For a better description of the starter solenoid fix with great pics and schematics go to Larry B's web site here:
http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/
Below are some pics for ya!
There are three 10 MM bolts holding starter to block. It takes a 10 MM 12 point socket on the lower two bolts and only a 10 mm box end wrench will fit on the upper bolt. A 6 point won't fit. My arms were 2 feet too short to get the upper bolt from above but if you have long arms like an ape and fetus sized hands you might reach it from above. I did all the work from below....Did I mention it was raining too?
I did not have a 12 point socket so I used a wrench with a cheater bar. The 4th pic shows the two lower bolts on the left, from under the truck,with two 10 mm wrenchs and my green cheater bar. The other nut for the battery positive lead is 15 MM and the other smaller nut (from the "Engine Starter Motor Relay" in the PDC) took an 8 MM wrench .
The bottom pic shows a wrench on the dreaded upper bolt. It's impossible to get enough force to push the wrench toward the block to loosen it if its as tight as mine was. The next post shows how I used a 4 foot block of wood and floor jack to bust the upper bolt free.
http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/
Below are some pics for ya!
There are three 10 MM bolts holding starter to block. It takes a 10 MM 12 point socket on the lower two bolts and only a 10 mm box end wrench will fit on the upper bolt. A 6 point won't fit. My arms were 2 feet too short to get the upper bolt from above but if you have long arms like an ape and fetus sized hands you might reach it from above. I did all the work from below....Did I mention it was raining too?
I did not have a 12 point socket so I used a wrench with a cheater bar. The 4th pic shows the two lower bolts on the left, from under the truck,with two 10 mm wrenchs and my green cheater bar. The other nut for the battery positive lead is 15 MM and the other smaller nut (from the "Engine Starter Motor Relay" in the PDC) took an 8 MM wrench .
The bottom pic shows a wrench on the dreaded upper bolt. It's impossible to get enough force to push the wrench toward the block to loosen it if its as tight as mine was. The next post shows how I used a 4 foot block of wood and floor jack to bust the upper bolt free.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Red Lion, PA
Removed starter, top bolt was easy, I used a six point Thorsen E16, extensions, ratchet and a cheater on the ratchet handle, was enough room to get at it from the top (with 24" cheater stcking out the top). Could only get a box end on the middle bolt. Starter is out of the way.
Used plenty of penetranting oil, removed bracket & 3 pin connector. Now the CPS won't come loose. I can get it to rotate some, but it just won't pull out. Is it threaded into the block? Any suggestions?
It's the same old story, if the person who designed it had to work on it, we'd all be a lot happier.
Used plenty of penetranting oil, removed bracket & 3 pin connector. Now the CPS won't come loose. I can get it to rotate some, but it just won't pull out. Is it threaded into the block? Any suggestions?
It's the same old story, if the person who designed it had to work on it, we'd all be a lot happier.
DTR's 'Go to Guy'
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,811
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From: Indiana
Take your time prying it out! If you DO break it off, get a dent puller. You know, the little slide hammer with a screw in the end.........put the screw into the sensor, and slide hammer away! I have used an axle pulling slide hammer before with a bunch of washers and a drywall screw if a dent puller hammer isn't available. They can be a real PITA!
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