Cracked Block!! What Now???
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 371
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From: Mississippi Gulf Coast
Here is a company that specializes in this repair... I don't know what they charge but if it helps...
Service Department for In-house and On-Site Repairs
800-736-8261 in the US and Canada (M-F, 7-4:30, Pacific)
209-632-2345 (Monday through Friday, 7:00 am to 4:30 pm, Pacific time)
Fax 209-632-2346
Ask for the Service Department
Email: Service@locknstitch.com
http://www.locknstitch.com/cast_iron_repair.htm
Hey, I say if you still get a new block, check how much the lok-n-stitch costs... may be nice to have an extra engine around to throw in a fun buggy project!!!
Service Department for In-house and On-Site Repairs
800-736-8261 in the US and Canada (M-F, 7-4:30, Pacific)
209-632-2345 (Monday through Friday, 7:00 am to 4:30 pm, Pacific time)
Fax 209-632-2346
Ask for the Service Department
Email: Service@locknstitch.com
http://www.locknstitch.com/cast_iron_repair.htm
LOCK-N-STITCH Inc. has over 30 years' experience in dealing with the toughest and most mysterious cracks in cast iron. Among these difficult issues is the cracks endemic to the Cummins 5.9-liter "53" block engines built between 1999 and 2001. The "53" is cast on the lower front of the block on the drivers side.
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 371
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From: Mississippi Gulf Coast
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From: Pattonville, Texas
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From: KENTUCKY
Thought I had a leaking freeze plug, when I changed my oil tonight got to looking on the right side at the plugs and just below the 2nd one from the back was a crack about 2 inches long and is dripping out. My question is what should I do about it? what can I do about it any help here would be appreciated. No oil in water and the motor runs great.
There is a guy in Hodgenville, KY that fixes 53 blocks all the time, among just about any other kind of casting repair.
On some repairs, he has these little button/pin gizmos that he drills a special hole, sticks in the pin, and either turns it, or something.
The pin draws the crack together and, once installed, is not going anywhere.
This guy can work miracles.
The only catch is he does no engine pulling; you have to bring him the naked block, he will then do the repair, and you put it all back together.
If you want to talk to this guy, PM me for his number.
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From: Kenai Alaska
I probably missed it but what would cause the block to crack in the first place?
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Western Colorado
As 'XLR8R' said - There is a lot of info here: http://www.locknstitch.com/RepairExamples.htm
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I find it works best for me is to stop drill at each end use a 4" grinder and grind it as flat as possible I fit a 3/16 steel plate to go over the crack drill and tap the block and plate use 1/4" or 5/16" bolts and put silicone between them.I started doing this when customers would freeze blocks on HD equipment
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Oklahoma
this sounds like the best solution of all!
mechanically drill holes to stop the crack, then thread holes. then torque down a steel plate with rubber gasket to stop the leaks.
I don't see any reason why this shouldn't work. assuming you can grind sealing surfaces flat enough to seal.
mechanically drill holes to stop the crack, then thread holes. then torque down a steel plate with rubber gasket to stop the leaks.
I don't see any reason why this shouldn't work. assuming you can grind sealing surfaces flat enough to seal.
I find it works best for me is to stop drill at each end use a 4" grinder and grind it as flat as possible I fit a 3/16 steel plate to go over the crack drill and tap the block and plate use 1/4" or 5/16" bolts and put silicone between them.I started doing this when customers would freeze blocks on HD equipment
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 515
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From: Western Pa
I find it works best for me is to stop drill at each end use a 4" grinder and grind it as flat as possible I fit a 3/16 steel plate to go over the crack drill and tap the block and plate use 1/4" or 5/16" bolts and put silicone between them.I started doing this when customers would freeze blocks on HD equipment
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