clutch wont fully disengage cant get it in gear
 

i got my new 550 hp clutch and i dont know the technical terms or anything so bare with me. the problem is my clutch wont fully disengage and i cant get it in gear without shutting it off first. [verymad] when i push my clutch all the way in it still pulls forward.

my idea is that the hydralics cant hold up to the new clutch engaging and it finally took a crap.

Any help would be great i wanna order parts today!

Jared

Sounds like Hyd clutch took a dive. Someone makes a higher capacity aftermarket kit. However the Dodge kit is a very few $'s more and is easier to install. It will do the job also.

I had that same problem, my throwout bearing as well as the fingers on my pressure plate were worn out/ not working right...if it is a dual disk you need to make sure you put the clutch disk as well as the floater plate in the correct direction as well the correct shims...i would most likely start by checkin the slave cylinder..but bleading the system is a pain...the stock hydraulic system is plenty strong to hold up, but depending on how old and how many miles you have the truck the orginal system may have failed...just my .02 though

I am having the same problem right now aswell.. dual disc and i have the upgraded hydr. If i were you i'd guess the hydrolics first. they aren't to bad to install.. I think i'm havin the same problem you did Heavyboostin

Yea, its was not good, many miles of beating on the clutch and I wasnt the first owner...once you take it apart its easy to tell..the fingers on mine were worn down and the throwout bearing was not sitting on the fingers concentric, on other words it was not centered and had wron one side of the clutch worse than the other, soon after figuring that out i broke the input shaft...coincidense?

same thing happened to me-2006 dodge-i had 30,000 miles on it- replaced throwout bearing-hydr resovior-pressure plate- and god knows what else that the dealer didnt tell me about- they didnt say what caused it but im worried about this happening again- its off warranty w/ 46,000mi on it now.

who turned your flywheel? are they a reputible shop? not knocking them but it is common that alot of shops like napa will take the flywheel down too far, or far enough that the stock bolts will bottom out.

when you tightened all the bolts did the pressure plate seat up flat to the flywheel or is there a hair of a space between the pressure plate surface and the flywheel surface. if there is a gap then that will also cause the symptom you are describing sine the plate tavels down the bolts before the fingers can travel far enough to disengage the disc. if you had the flywheel turned and the bolts bottomed out you might not have noticed. easy solution is to put some lcok washers on the stock bolts and that will usually ive you enough bolt length to clean things up and not bottom out.

good luck

i got a new throwout bearing with my clutch kit. i sure hope i dont have to drop my freakin tranny agian. im gonna start with the easiest choice and get a new hydraulic clutch. anyone know the aftermarket company that makes one a lil beefier than stock

south bend makes the upgraded hydraulics. out of all my trucks running performance clutches over the years i only had 1 have the hydraulics get weak witha single disk. on dual disks thats a diffrent deal but singles i can almost always get away with the stock setup. but on it it would barely disengage the clutch then it would leak down and the clutch would fully engage. thats a different can of worms though.....with that i was able to test it by adding a 1/8" spacer and a 1/4" spacer to the end of the throwout to see if travel wasnt enough.

Who's clutch did you use. whats the plate load . what year truck, are you still running the original hydraulic system or did it get serviced at one time during its life?

a tranny jack from harbor freight is $100-125 on my 03 i can rip the tranny down and re-install in about 3 hours. a hydraulic system for me on my old 98 was $270 + shipping. and it ended up not being the problem. It sucks throwing money and parts at something and finding out it wasnt the problem.

i dont think its the flywheel tho because it ran perfect for almost 2000 miles.

Jared

Try to pump the clutch a couple times and try to put in gear. If it pumps up the hyd cylinder bad or air. Normally if you can shut the truck off and put it in gear and restart the floater plate is not floating/warped or the clutch plate is coming apart.

thats an important tid bit of info for diagnosing this.

got your pm i couldnt respond till this afternoon so im just responding here.

if it worked before then hydraulics is a stronger possibility. i was under the impression it didnt work as soon as you installed the clutch

good luck

ya sorry bout that i made it sound like i just installed it.. my bad

Jared

who ever decided to make the clutch hyd. what ever happened to mechanical
clutch. mine went out a while back did the same thing just after installing new clutch,pp,tob, good luck

This may sound STUPID but....!!!

REMOVE the Driver's Side floor mat and THEN pump up the pedal.

I replaced the Slave cylinder on my truck and had a real low pedal.

My problem was solved AFTER I removed the floor mat and re-pumped the pedal! The extra 1/4" of pedal travel made ALL The difference in the bleeding or plastic strap breakage (new slave cylinder)!

Sometimes it's the small things!