12v has no power
03-28-2007, 07:36 PM
#31
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I'm so ****** off I cant see straight but aside from that things are going as ususal.. you know not well. That tiny stupid little stud for the starter selonide broke off. Who would use any type of stud that small in a place where its deffintly going to get all kinds of rust. Anyway. Does anyone know of any brands of starters that arnt crap? pepboys has a "pro-stop" probbaly junk for like 175. another local place has some unkown brand for 229. The dealer probbaly wants 900 and my first born. some place on line has some OEM ones for just under 400$ but that dosent help me tomorrow.
03-28-2007, 09:38 PM
#32
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I'm so ****** off I cant see straight but aside from that things are going as ususal.. you know not well. That tiny stupid little stud for the starter selonide broke off. Who would use any type of stud that small in a place where its deffintly going to get all kinds of rust. Anyway. Does anyone know of any brands of starters that arnt crap? pepboys has a "pro-stop" probbaly junk for like 175. another local place has some unkown brand for 229. The dealer probbaly wants 900 and my first born. some place on line has some OEM ones for just under 400$ but that dosent help me tomorrow.
03-30-2007, 07:39 PM
#34
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new lift pump didnt help at all. Put the 215's back in and after a few trys at the same symptons it now revs to 3400 again but has no power. Makes a whole 8pounds of boost at full throttle. no smoke.
03-31-2007, 10:55 AM
#35
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OK, completely remove the fuel shut off solenoid from the equation. Unhook it, and see what happens. I could have a strong pull-in coil, but the hold in coil may be weak. I have seen this on more than maybe 30 occasions. And not just on dodge trucks.
Then, once you have eliminated the shut-off solenoid as a possible cause, run a line into a conatiner of clean fuel, bypassing all the lines from the tank to the lift pump. Make sure the fuel is clean, fire it up, and see what happens.
The answer is something simple, I can guarantee that, and throwing money and colourful language at it doesn't help. Stop changing parts until you can figure out what went wrong with the parts that you already have on there. Then, if a part needs to be changed, change only that part. It is much easier on the wallet, and at the same time, you better your diagnostic skills.
And remember this. Jobs that go well build confidence, Jobs that go bad... build character. Either way it is a positive experience, no matter how much it gets under your fingernails at the time.
Then, once you have eliminated the shut-off solenoid as a possible cause, run a line into a conatiner of clean fuel, bypassing all the lines from the tank to the lift pump. Make sure the fuel is clean, fire it up, and see what happens.
The answer is something simple, I can guarantee that, and throwing money and colourful language at it doesn't help. Stop changing parts until you can figure out what went wrong with the parts that you already have on there. Then, if a part needs to be changed, change only that part. It is much easier on the wallet, and at the same time, you better your diagnostic skills.
And remember this. Jobs that go well build confidence, Jobs that go bad... build character. Either way it is a positive experience, no matter how much it gets under your fingernails at the time.
03-31-2007, 02:29 PM
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timing wouldn't cause that... you really need to put a fuel pressure gauge on there to verify that the injection pump isn't being starved for fuel. remove the fuel solenoid and just actuate the fuel lever by hand to verify that it's all the way open.
if you've got good fuel flow/pressure feeding the IP and the fuel lever is all the way open, you've got a messed up IP
you're CERTAIN that the lever arm isn't diving under the plate and that your GSK is set up properly? I can't explain WHY, but I know for a fact that a funky GSK will cause severe low power! been there/done that!
if you've got good fuel flow/pressure feeding the IP and the fuel lever is all the way open, you've got a messed up IP
you're CERTAIN that the lever arm isn't diving under the plate and that your GSK is set up properly? I can't explain WHY, but I know for a fact that a funky GSK will cause severe low power! been there/done that!
03-31-2007, 04:05 PM
#38
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I have never touched the GSK since I put it in 3 years ago. has always run great. the motor will rev to 3400 still now that the 215's are back in but it does it verrrry slowly. To check the lever for the fuel plate isnt diving under I took the AFC housing off, held the shut off selonide open and then moved the throttle linkage. It hits right near the bottom of the curve them moves forword. dosent really move up much though. makes it all the way to the back of the 100 plate though. I guess ill have to hire a truck to tow it to cummins and jest bend over.
03-31-2007, 06:55 PM
#40
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I had taken the AFC housing apart when I checked the lever arm. The diaphragm looked ok to me and everything seemed to function with the rack and all. Even if the AFC housing wasnt working, with the star wheel all the way forword shouldnt I still be getting some good smoke when I stab the throttle from idle up to say 1300-1500rpm with a deep ground 100 plate?
03-31-2007, 08:40 PM
#41
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remove that foot from the afc housing.... it will allow for better rack travel and better fuel flow.
LIKE ALL THESE OTHER INTELLIGENT DIESEL OWNERS HAVE SAID, HAVE YOU PUT A FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE IN THERE YET TO CHECK THE PRESSURE?
iF NOT THEN DO IT AND SPEND THE TIME TO DO IT, GO SLOW AND ENJOY YOURSELF. Cussin out the treuck wont help you out.
If you bring it to DC then not only wil you get raped but they will find it to be something stupid and small... but definatly go back and check the basics over again!!!!! Inspect the fuel lines for small cracks, leaks or dry rot.
My uncle always says review the basics, think small then work slow to the big stuff.... Spend some time and be patient going over it, you might get lucky this time...
mabe even take a video of the truck and the way its running, or of the way your testing stuff... its easier to diag when you can see the problem or even hearit
LIKE ALL THESE OTHER INTELLIGENT DIESEL OWNERS HAVE SAID, HAVE YOU PUT A FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE IN THERE YET TO CHECK THE PRESSURE?
iF NOT THEN DO IT AND SPEND THE TIME TO DO IT, GO SLOW AND ENJOY YOURSELF. Cussin out the treuck wont help you out.
If you bring it to DC then not only wil you get raped but they will find it to be something stupid and small... but definatly go back and check the basics over again!!!!! Inspect the fuel lines for small cracks, leaks or dry rot.
My uncle always says review the basics, think small then work slow to the big stuff.... Spend some time and be patient going over it, you might get lucky this time...
mabe even take a video of the truck and the way its running, or of the way your testing stuff... its easier to diag when you can see the problem or even hearit
03-31-2007, 08:45 PM
#42
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what icant understand is why it ran perfectly befor and since changeing the clutch, turbo, trans, injectors and fuel plate it wont move. I have not done a fuel pressure gauge beacuse I dont have one, I dont have a banjo bolt, and I dont have someone to be pushing on the gas pedal while I read the gauge. and i was going to take it to cummins not chyrstler. Although cummins is just as bad if not worse then the dealer. At least the dealer will smile while they stick it to you
03-31-2007, 10:37 PM
#44
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Pull the plate out, won't hurt it for a test run. For the fuel pressure, just pull out your banjo, drill it with a 21/64" bit, and tap 1/8". You can just get a cheap-o gauge from somewhere just so you know. I didn't read the whole thing, but you said you changed the fuel filter, what about the prescreen on the bottom of the fuel heater? Not likely the problem but maybe worth a check.
03-31-2007, 10:49 PM
#45
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cleaned the heater filter when I replaced the lift pump. Its probbaly not the plate since it had the same problem with the #12 that used to work just fine. I'll remove the plate anyway just for poops and giggles next week if I have time. I bled the injector lines a few times. I cracked them while the truck was running and let them run untill fuel pored out.