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04.5 Radiator petcock..won't close, need to remove

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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 01:02 PM
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From: Kersey, PA
04.5 Radiator petcock..won't close, need to remove

I have a radiator petcock that will not close (have read all past posts about pushing in and turning...still won't close). I have a NAPA replacement waiting, but need to get the old one out. I have read others posts about snapping off also and I am worried. How can you get this out in 1 piece??!! I haven't seen a clear answer anywhere. Does the ribbed section have to be vertical or horizontal when pulling? Any help appreciated..have about 2-3 hours to get up and running
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 01:09 PM
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well the EDIT just broke off right in front of the rubber O-ring / washer. Guess my new question is how to get the rest of it out??!!

Last edited by BC847; Jan 17, 2010 at 04:46 PM. Reason: Language
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 05:14 PM
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Well I solved my own problem. For those of you who this happens to in the future, try jacking up the pass. side of the truck so the radiator is on an incline. Flush from the top side of the radiator until you can see the broken piece of plastic. Eventually, you will be able to grab with some pliers (I needed some right angle needlenose and a pair of vice grips). Good luck!
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 09:48 PM
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Good that you got it out, those are the cheapest drain plugs I have ever seen. I started pulling the lower radiator hose when I drain coolant now because those drain plugs are such a pain in the butt.

Last edited by BigIron70; Jan 19, 2010 at 08:48 PM. Reason: Language
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 11:56 AM
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BTW, NAPA has a replacement (p/n 6051278) that looks similar to the original plug, but doesn't look like it will have the same thread engagement problems as the OEM part (buy this first if you will be messing with the original plug). Pulling the lower rad. hose looks like a better option next time
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 07:57 PM
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Please HELP!!!!!

I wish I had read this thread before I opened my petcock. Just changed my waterpump and put in a new t-stat and a new belt. Now I can't get the petcock to stop leaking. I spent the last 45 minutes trying to get it to come out completely but I can't seem to make that work either. Does anybody have any tips on how to get the old petcock out (in one piece)??? If I get it out I can replace it but the truck is no good to me like this. Any help at all would be appreciated.
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 12:15 AM
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Hello, I have not drained mine yet but this is what I had copied from another post:

Radiator Drain Plug:
I turned the drain plug 1/4 turn counter clock wise, and coolant comes out the pipe in the bottom and from around what I would call the valve body.
I couldn't get the valve to reseat or shut off. With the radiator now completely drained, I can't get the valve to do much of anything but spin round and round
Try pushing in on the valve when you turn it. Thats the way mine is. Pull out and turn counterclock wise. Push in and turn clockwise
push HARD. when i did mine, i couldnt get it work either, posted here, WAP said to push really hard in and turn clockwise. it worked. kinda a bugger to put back in.
next time, i'll just pull the lower hose.
You have to push HARD and then twist. Try squirting a little oil or WD-40 in there, sometimes the plastic really sticks and a little lube helps.

Perhaps its better to drain it from the lower radiator hose!!

Remember, this post was not from me (I know nothing) but if I can find the original thread I will post it. and give the author credit.
There was also something about using marine epoxy to seal it and than having to use the lower hose to drain. Wish i could find the posts..
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 07:42 AM
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Thanks Bark, I haven't seen this post but I'm glad you sent it to me. I will try again today. Yesterday I tried to pull the POS thing out and had no luck so hopefully I can make this work.
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 09:55 AM
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As Bark mentioned, push the draincock into the threaded inlet while turning it. Check the o-ring and make sure that it is properly seated. If so, put some waterproof silicone grease; ie plumbers grease/faucet grease, on the o-ring and threads to make thread engagement easier. You can find the grease at your local orange or blue big box home hardware stores.

Do not use petroleum based grease or spray lubricants on the o-ring as this causes o-rings to swell up and or fail. The new part number for the NAPA Radiator Petcock is(BK 6051278).
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 10:05 AM
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Is the NAPA BK6051278 number good for all our rads or is it year specific? Thinking of getting one in case I need it in a panic in future. What do they cost?
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 04:16 PM
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I love this website. On the weekend I changed my waterpump, t-stat, and serpentine belt as well as flushed out my entire cooling system. I had problems with the petcock but a new piece from napa works well. Thanks everybody for your advice and help. Truck is running perfectly and back on the road thanks to everyone here. Keep rollin'.
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 04:18 PM
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The waterpump was new from Napa (I hope it lasts). Cost about the same as a rebuilt. The t-stat was expensive but appears to be working well and the petcock is a good idea and is only a few bucks.
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 10:54 PM
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From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
Originally Posted by BigIron70
Good that you got it out, those are the cheapest drain plugs I have ever seen. I started pulling the lower radiator hose when I drain coolant now because those drain plugs are such a pain in the butt.
If you are replacing water pump no need to drain coolant. 90% of coolant will come out once pump is removed.
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 01:16 AM
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From: Kenai Alaska
Thanks, that is very good info.
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 01:22 PM
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My petcock will not drain, so I pulled the lower radiator hose.

I would like to know if the petcock is in the "closed" position. I have the valve handle in the vertical position (full clockwise). Is this closed?

I would hate to leave it in the open position and have it start working.
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