I going today to get the parts to extend my engine exhaust hose. After it's done, I going to clean off all the oil blowby that has accumulated.

The instruction on Simple Green and other degreasers warn about getting in on painted surfaces. Is there a problem with using it on the cooling fan and underneath the truck?

CR

 

I have never had any luck with simple green on heavy grease. I have used the citrus based Orange stuff and had much better results. Depending on the brand some will fade or etch paint, just depends on the strength of concentrate.

 

I've used it on my truck with good results. Apache is right, though, if it is more than a light oily film, you may find that you need to either brush it around or use something stronger.

 

just drive the truck up to the coin-op car wash... use the engine degreaser and hose down the oily parts, and then blast 'em w/ the high pressure rinse. looks like new!

Forrest

PS, I've always had good luck w/ Simple Green, but I use high pressure to rinse.

 

Castroll makes a exelant prod and will clean evn in cold water

 

Good idea.

CR

 

If it is just grease or oil, use varsol with a stiff brush. If it is grease or oil mixed with dirt, use Castrol Superclean. Superclean will take paint off if left on for a long time, so just make sure to hose it off with water after. I am not sure about varsol, it can be used as a paint thinner so I imagine it will do the same.

 

I did the entire underbody of my truck one night and the engine and all with simple green and didn't have a single problem. Get the automotive strength stuff. It's stronger than the normal simple green.

 

Since I started using Castrol Super-Clean my pressure washer is covered with cobwebs. Cold water from the hose is all it takes. Never had it take the paint off a Dodge but it takes off John Deere green really good. Make sure to get the kind that says safe for aluminum.

 

Got 'er Done!

Well, at least the hose is on. Boy is it a mess under there. I bought the heavy duty orange cleaner and will try that and/or the car wash later.

Not as simple as I thought. I bought a 3/4 PVC rib connector and a 3/4 to 1/2 ribbed 90* at Home Depot and six feet of 3/4 heater hose from Autozone. The problem was getting the six foot piece going toward the back while keeping it at a downward angle. I ended up cutting the factory hose above the clamp on the block and put the splice there. I ran the hose over the frame cross-member and down the frame to just in front of the tranny skid plate. I tie wrapped it to the starter cable bracket on the frame and to two other places along the frame. The end and the 90 are just below the bottom edge of the frame. I just hope it not too long.

CR

 

A thought came to mind when I saw that you had used six feet of 3/4" hose. Not sure exactly how much of the 6' you used, but over time as that hose small interior gets clogged up is it possible that this decreased volume could cause back pressure? Which in turn will cause other problems such as oil leaks.

 

The way I cleaned up my mess maker was quite a bit easier. I just slipped a foot or so of 3/4'' ID hose over the stock blowby and extended it to about 4'' above the ground. Oil hits the pavement rather than the bottom of the truck. I used no clamp figuring if it got caught on something it would come off easily. Almost ten years later it's still there.

 

Howdy Stan,

I am a little concerened about using the whole 6'. I'll for sure keep an eye on it and be sure to clean it out at the car wash every now and again.

Why don't you come on up to Waco for the dyno day we're having next month?

CR

 

Gunk foamy engine brite works best for me. Been using it for years.

 

I used about 6' in similar fashion, but where it connects on the existing tube, I used a 'T' fitting with a 3/8" opening to the front, and ran about 3' forward to take in air. Seems to work. Haven't had a bit of smell since.