10secBu

Hey all,

I'm looking at possibly upgrading to a 97 and newer Dodge ram 2500 4x2 with the CTD engine. I just happened to pass a Dodge dealers used lot and saw a truck I'm interested in. I didn't have time to look it over real well, so I'll be making a trip back there in a couple days.

The truck is a 2001 2500 4x2 with the quad cab and 8 foot bed. It's also got the 24v turbo diesel engine with the automatic trans. It has a hitch and 7 pin connector which leads me to believe it might also have a tow package. This truck has 61k miles on it.

OK, I'm completely ignorant of both Dodge trucks and also the turbo diesel engines. I tow a 6000 lb open trailer which is used for drag racing. I currently have a '89 Chevy 2500 3/4 ton 2wd Suburban with the 454/th400. I would really like to get back into a truck to haul junk in the bed and also the deisel would be nice to pick up some gas milage...current pig motor gets 8 mpg.

Anyway, before I go back to look at this truck, what should I be looking at in respect to both the Dodge truck and the deisel engine? Any trouble areas to be aware of? Any maintence issues to be aware of with this generation truck?

Any and all info regarding the possible purchase of this truck would be greatly appreciated.

BTW, this is a nice forum....got a link from the Moparts.com fellas.

thanks
Todd G

billg

First welcome to the site.
Yes I can think of a couple and I’m sure the other guys will add to or correct what I get wrong.
I would check to see if it is the #53 block. If it is, being you are going to be towing I’d pass on the truck. Here is why: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=cracked+block
The other thing would be to have the lift pump checked. Be sure to be there to see the test. At idle I would want to see around 13 to 15 psi, at cruse 10 psi, and wide open throttle no less than 8 psi. They might try to tell you as long as it is not in a vacuum it’s ok. Don’t buy that crap it is on its last leg. And if you don’t have gauges and don’t see it go it can take out the $1800 lift pump. Do a search on lift pump there will be plenty of info on this.
Being it was used to tow before you I would have the tranny checked out. You don’t know how he treated it while towing.
The tranny and #53 block are the big things to me. The lift pump is easy just be aware of it. That is all I can come up with.
Oh if you think maybe I’ll do one of the other brands, their list is just as bad.
Other than this they are great trucks. I would not own anything else. They tow great and have power to spare and get good fuel mileage while doing it. They are pretty easy to take care of as well.
Good Luck Hope things work out for you.

jrs_dodge_diesel

My 2001 has been nothing but great so far. I was aware of the 53 block, but didn't check before I bought the truck. I found out later I had the 55 block. My dealer was great. Changed all the fluids and filters, even put new tires on it. I also have the hitch and 7 pin connector in the back. Even has the heavy duty tow package which included stronger springs in the back. I would have the lift pump and tranny checked before you buy. Your mileage will definetly go up. My truck gets 18 now. Not back for such a big truck. And it will definetly haul that trailer of yours with ease. Good luck to you. Hope you get the truck.

10secBu

Thanks for the info guys...great stuff.

Now, stupid question, but what's a lift pump?

See I told you I was diesel ignorant .

OK, lets say this truck doesn't have the #53 block. Now, how do I handle having the trans and lift pump inspected? I surely can't do those myself and should the dealerships service department be trusted to give me the truth about it?

This is a high $$$ long term investment for me, so I don't want to go into it blind ir ignorant of any possible pitfalls.

Thanks again guys...info you have given is a big help.

EDIT: what was the warranty on the drivelines on these trucks from new?

Todd

billg

The lift pump supplies the vp-44 (injection pump) with fuel. A test port is on the side of the vp-44 at the input to the pump. The Vp-44 needs fuel for lubrication and cooling. When the lift pump fails the vp has to suck fuel from the tank through the lift pump which causes heat and lack of lubrication. The pump then has a short life ($$$).
As far as the tranny goes, I planned on replacing mine or updating it because they are a week part of the drive chain. If the tranny is in good shape a shift kit and torque converter will do wonders for the truck. I would take it to a trusted tranny shop (probably not one of the national chains, you would not believe what I was told by one of them. They do not understand diesel trannys.) I got my tranny from Suncoast. Here is a little reading on that. http://www.suncoastconverters.com/dodge.html Some of the other shops have forums to visit or you can do a search in the “Search” area at the top of the page (lots of reading) or look up in the “Links” area at the top of the page. This subject should be another post.
There are other shops and some of the guys can help with them.
Hope this helps and is not info overload.

torqueboxer

This is exactly the same questions I was going to ask. I currently dont own a ctd truck but I have begun my search for one. I dont want to hijack 10secbu's post or anything by asking my own questions, but, the replys to what to look for seem really good. I wouldnt trust the dealers around here as far as i could throw them. LOL. What about the KDP that is important to look for also on these trucks? Is the KDP a Dodge TSB that should be fixed for free by the dealer? Sorry for the semi hijack 10secbu, but, we seem to be in the same boat with buying one of these trucks. BTW great forum!!

jrs_dodge_diesel

There are 2 fuel pumps on the diesel engine. The lift (transfer) pump, and the VP44 injection pump. The VP44 runs the injectors, supplying the injectors with fuel at about 2000-2500 psi. The lift pump sucks fuel from the tank and feeds the VP44. Bad thing is Dodge mounted the lift pump up on the engine instead of back by the tank. The lift pump works better at pushing fuel rather than sucking it, from what I've been told. That and undersized fittings and lines between the lift pump and VP44. The lift pump is easy to check, all you need is a fuel pressure guage. The lift pump should never be below 10 psi ever in 3 aspects. Idle, cruise, and wide open throttle (WOT). In those 3 areas the pump should never fall below 10 psi. If it goes below 10, the lift pump is on its last legs and will soon crap out if you are not careful and monitor its pressure.

The tranny is more difficult to check. When you test drive it, make sure it shifts good and smooth.

The 53 block is easy to check for. All you need is a flashlight. (at least I did) I crawled underneath by the drivers side front tire, shined the light on the block just above the oil pan rail. I saw mine real quick, in 1 inch letters cast into the block, 55.

Hope this helps you.

If you buy it, you will enjoy this truck. I bought mine and I can honestly say I probably will never go back to a gas engine in a truck. I enjoy my truck so my that I never turn on the radio. Ain't nuthin like listenin to the sweet sound of the engine rumblin and the turbo whistlin.

billg

Here is a little reading on the kdp. You can do a search on this and find a lot of info and how to fix it. It was a problem up to about 1999 I think.
http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechKDP.htm
I don't think this applies to 10secbu. I think they had it fixed by the 2000 model. I have heard the guy who new a guy stuff but never in the first person with a 2000 or newer with the dowel pin problem.

KAyers

Todd G....To help set your mind at ease, that truck should still have plenty of engine warranty left on it. Only 61k on a 2001 is still a baby.

jyates

10xecbu,

Two other things.

(1)Have a Dodge dealer run the VIN and verify that TSB have been done. There are TSB's for 2001 lift pump replacement and low power with automatic tranny when towing (ECM is updated). the VIN history can also tell you if the engine warranty has been voided for any number of reasons.

(2) Get an oil sample and have Blackstone or some similar test facility test the sample. It's cheap and it tells you alot about the engine.

I have a 2001 3500 automatic. It is a great truck with over 150K miles.

10secBu

I gotta be honest here guys. I just drove my buddies '96 4x2 CTD truck. While it ran just fine, it started me thinking...

With as little knowledge I have on diesel engines and drivelines, I wonder if I really should be even thinking of making the switch from gas? I don't really have the knowledge or the ability to do some of the pre-purchase tests that were mentioned like the lift pump pressures, etc.

I pride myself in doing most all my own mechanical work as well as fabrication and welding (my hobby besides drag racing). I fear that I won't know how to work on the engine/driveline due to lack of background/knowledge with diesels.

Also, the other concern is buying a pretty expensive used truck and shortly there after discover it has one or more of the problems mentioned above. It will take all my spare $$$ to make the truck payments (haven't had a car loan in at least 6 or 8 years), and if something major did come up mechanically, it could be a pretty expensive repair bill...trans rebuild, injector pump/lift pump, or even the cracked block issue.

I know I asked for the information and am glad you guys were straight with me. I suppose I'm getting a little scared of getting in over my head, especially given my lack of CTD experience.

I'm still gonna go test drive this 2001 truck and try to strike a decent deal...after that, I still need to decide if the switch is right for me.

My reasons for this switch are as follows...

1. need to get better fuel milage than the current Suburban's 8 mpg.

2. still would like 3/4 ton for the towing I do, and still want the power/toque that the 454 has.

3. need to get back into a truck where I can haul (in the bed) what ever is needed where right now, I can't haul dirty stuff or trash, or even large items as we don't want to hog up the inside of the Burb.

decisions, decisions .

I doubt anyone will say so, but has anyone here switch from gas to diesel and were later sorry they made the switch?

wannadiesel

Any reason for not going with an older truck to save money? I don't think you can beat the '94 - '98 12 valves for lack of mechanical issues. I wouldn't worry about not being able to work on the truck, the driveline is no different than anything you're used to. If anything the diesel engine is simpler than a gasser, no ignition system to worry about and if you went with a 12 valve everything is mechanical. The learning curve really isn't bad. This truck is my first diesel and I'll never go back to gas.

billg

I should also let you know before I found this site I was as dumb as a box of rocks (and I'm still in learning mode), when it came to a diesel. My first diesel was a 96 and as stated above it was very easy to learn how to work on. I now have the truck in my signature and between the service manual and this site I’m not afraid to tackle any of the repairs or to do the modifications myself. If you have a racing background you won’t have a problem with a diesel. As for checking the lift pump pressure all you need is a fuel gauge that will go to 20 psi and an old A/C gauge hose. There is a schrader fitting at the Injection pump. Just hook up and look for pressures at idle 15psi, cruse 10psi, and WOT no less than 8psi.
Before my 96 diesel I had all gas trucks, two fords one chevy. I’ll never go back.

10secBu

Well, I'm slightly disappointed. A good friend went along and we looked over this truck as well as putting it through it's paces on the road . As soon as I opened the drivers door, I could smell stale cigarette smoke. It's obvious the original owner was a smoker. I have pretty bad asthma as well as others inmy family...such smells really shut my chest up. Strike one.

Also, I discovered that there was once a fifth wheel hitch mounted in the bed. While this isn't a huge deal, it did tell me the original owner had towed a trailer that was likely on the large side. Due to privacy laws, they dealership could not allow me to call the original owner and ask the trucks past history. Strike two.

Also, the dealership offered a rediculously low trade in for my Suburban. Heck, they only offered $500 more than the guaranteed $2000 trade in sale. Strike three.

They also claimed another buyer was coming in later today to purchase the truck as he couldn't afford the more expensive dually right beside the one I wanted. Due to the fact that they had a sale based upon this other fellow, they refused to do any dealing on the price. I could have left a deposit and it would have been mine, but I decided to end our discussion and come home.

What really bothered me the most was this was such a clean truck other than the smell in the interior. No signs of any accident damage/repaint, no dents, just a few shallow scratches that could have buffed out.

While on the way home, I stopped at a local dealer and gave another truck a quick lookover. This was a '99, not a 01, and they wanted $2000 more than the first truck for one two years older and with 7000 more miles. This other truck had at least half the truck repainted, rather poorly I might add.

So, it looks like my search for a CTD will continue. My priorities are to find one on the 2000 or newer with milage below 100k, be very clean and be from a non-smoker previous owner(s). Basically, I want a two to four year old truck that looks like new, but is less than $20k.

Still looking locally

blackjack

10secbu Don't despair. Keep looking. You might have to branch out a little but their out there. you can look at my sig and I bought mine for 21500. w/4x4 and showroom cond. non smoking. These trucks are tougher than we sometimes make out and I think we go overboard here trying to keep each other out of trouble. Towing 6000 is like nothing to these trucks and you should not hurt it. the LP and the vp44 are covered under the 100,000 mile warranty so not to worry. Make sure you take it to a dealer and have them verify there are no issues that would stop the warranty like( Bombs) better yet buy from a reputable dealer and ask him to furnish the following in writting.

1. change all fluids including trans. and diff. front and rear on a 4x4 the fuel filter too.

2. the dealer assumes all responsibilitiy for issues prior to your purchase. this is standard practice on a vehicle that is still under a factory warranty.

3. run a carfax report. tells the history of accidents salvage title etc...

this is really not much to ask and in fact tell the salesman ( prior to looking) you will require this if you purchase. that way you won't fall in love and not do your due dillegance. If they won't play that way polietly move along to a new dealer.
( this is no different than what you should expect on any used truck even a gasser)

the auto trans is a weak point but as you will read here is the problems start when you go beyond 50-75 h.p. bombs and even there you can make some tranny upgrades later. If you don't have monies for repairs you are not going to be doing much bombing. So IMHO I don;t see alot to worry about if you drive 20,000 miles ayear and buy a rig with 60,000 you will have a 2 year motor warranty. try that with a gasser.


I live in farm country and these diesel trucks are all over the place. and yet when you go by the repair shops it's always gassers.

You will not have spark plug and associated problems like a gasser so tune-ups are not too bad. actualy I think there is less to have to learn about a diesel they really are not too bad. My biggest confusion was after I had read a post about timing I didn't understand how timming worked without spark, so I posted a question and got many explanations to clear my confusion. This is a great site for a truck owner.

Once again don't worry about some of these issues, If the truck has not been bombed (and the dealer can prove it and the bomb caused the issue) you still have a warranty if it's under 100,000
Best of luck to you in your search. untill you find your's keep looking here and do searches on any subject you want to understand better. Just beware of Fisherman as they are known to stretch things if you know what I mean

Blackjack Sportfishing