I'm slightly confused here. When I install head studs, I was under the impression that you must lash the valves afterward. And it makes sense to me since you have to remove some of the rockers which are in the way.

Yet I've read some threads where lashing wasn't required? What gives?

 

You would probably get more response in a HP forum but for what its worth I think you would be crazy not to. It's no big deal to slide a feeler gauge in and check while your there.

 

If you remove any of the rockers (I took all of mine off) your going to have to lash the valves because they will be way out of whack and you could very well screw something up. Besides, with two people it doesn't take but 45 mins and my engine runs a lot smoother now that the valves are lashed.

 

Any time you retorque the head bolts it's a good idea to recheck the valves, the lash DOES change somewhat with retorquing.

 

i bet i can do mine in half the time!

 

Well, I used to lash my BBC in around 10 minutes by myself because I had an underhood starter bump switch.
I'm working solo here also... and don't think I can turn over engine from up top.

 

45 mins was just a number. I never timed my buddy and I doing it although I'd imagine it would go pretty quick. We've only done each of our trucks 3 or 4 times a piece.

 

Is there a good place to get specs and procedure for lashing the valves?

 

I printed them out from a thread a while back... I'll look.

 

If you can find them on the net or the thread could you email em to me?

Also if you got the ARP intall in structions on file I would like to get a coppy of them too, if it isnt too much trouble.

Let em know if you got em and I can pm you my email addy.

Thanks

 

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1

There's the valve lash procedure. It's really easy to do. I like doing it with two people because it makes life a little easier.

The arp install is pretty simple. Start in the center of the head and remove one bolt at a time and work your way out in a spiral manner. Once you pull a bolt out, bottom tap the hole, clean it out, then thread the stud all the way in and back it back out about 1/2-1/3 of a turn. Put moly lube all over the threads on the top of the stud and on the nut and washer and torque it down to 120 ft.lbs.

 

You dont lube the whole stud?

 

Didn't think you needed to. Figured that since the only part that's turning would be the nut so why lube the whole thing?

 

ARP suggested a little oil or moly on the threads going into the block. No loctite. He couldn't stress that enough.

 

Definately didn't use loctite. There was probably some motor oil down in the threads that I couldn't get out that probably worked.